If it wasn't raining today, I'd take pictures of what I need done. Nothing major, but to me they've become unbearable to keep looking at.MinisterofDOOM wrote:Yup. Biggest risk you run with repainting the car is having new paint that looks really good (especially compared to your old paint) but doesn't stay that way for long. That's the primary reason I've never repainted a car. I figure early 90s Infiniti paint quality (the Max had an Infiniti paint job) in bad shape is better than Maaco in good shape.
If I could get some sort of 5 year guarantee with the paint job or something like that I'd be much more inclined to take the plunge.
Would happen to know any quality paint places in the the PA/NJ Metro area? You pointed me in Keith's direction, hopefully there's another gem out there who specializes in Infiniti paints.maxnix wrote:Paint is kind of like tires except it requires a lot more time to do correctly.
You get for what you pay.
Other than incompetence and shoddy workmanship? MAACO is incapable of duplicating the Infiniti paint requirements. Many others are also.bullittandy wrote:Nothing wrong with Maaco......
Does the fact that the color name was changed affect the paint and the chamicals used in the paint?Q45tech wrote:I'm not sure it is possible to BUY 90-93 Q45 paint depending on color that is oem quality because of 1994 and 2000 EPA rules prohibiting certain chemicals.
Have you inspected the 500 Maaco shops across the country? You can verify that EVERY SINGLE ONE is staffed with "incompetent" workers who do "shoddy" work?maxnix wrote:Other than incompetence and shoddy workmanship? MAACO is incapable of duplicating the Infiniti paint requirements. Many others are also.
Good paint jobs are not cheap as there is too much labor, a high degree of skill and the right (expensive) equipment involved.
I've heard too many horror stories about Maaco.bullittandy wrote:
Paint is about prep work, you do that yourself then almost any paint will stick. If someone has $5000K to spend on a paint job then go get one but if you don't and your car looks like sh*t then a $500 (good single stage)-$1000 (cheapest base clear)paint job will do the trick.
I met a man at a local car show who owned an Aero Colours franchise. He had some of his cars on display and told me he had done the work himself. He took a quick look at what I wanted done and told me he could fix it for $500. At the time, I had begun considering the $4k I'd been quoted by another man at the show for a complete strip down and repaint. When I was ready, I called the Aero Colours guy and found all of the numbers I had for him were no longer in service. I went to the Aero Colours website and found that he was the only franchise in PA/NJ.qship96 wrote:Visit a few local custom car shows in your area and ask the owners who painted their cars- you will quickly learn who the real artists are.
Can I ask how much it was? All I really want to do is keep my same color, fix all the little dings and scratches, and repaint the trim because the yellow underneath it is showing in places. The gray around the license plate holders is fading and I want to rejuvenate that as well.NightRiderQ45 wrote:As qship stated, you need to go to a quality, independent shop. I had one of my old cars painted House of Kolor Candy Apple Red. To this day, the paint job looks great because of the amount of prep work needed to spray a candy paint job. Everything has to be taken off, sanded, primed, base coat silver, candy paint, clear, wet sand, clear again...
It wasn't cheap but d@mn it still looks good. I wish I was back home because I'm looking to repaint my car black.
Would the black from a 94-96 be able to work? I've seen places online that say they can sell me factory paint or at least really close matches. I wonder if supplying my own paint would help lower the cost.Q45tech wrote:I'm not sure it is possible to BUY 90-93 Q45 paint depending on color that is oem quality because of 1994 and 2000 EPA rules prohibiting certain chemicals.
The Fluorine coat.
It might be secretly imported from Japan in a mixed engine container?
You're right that prep-work is a huge part of it. But a lot of it has to do with the paint process, too. You simply cannot get the same finish quality and durability out of a respray. The processes involved in a factory paint job cannot be duplicated on an assembled car in a spray booth. You'd have to strip the car down and give it an acid bath to achieve the same quality. MAACO definitely doesn't do that. That's where the longevity issue I mentioned comes into play. You may well end up with a great looking MAACO paint job if you do your prep- and homework. But it won't have the durability or longevity of a factory paint job. Not possible, even if the workmanship is top-notch, because the processes are not on par with factory processes. So instead of a beautiful paint job that might last 20 years if cared for properly, you'll have a beautiful paint job that might last 5 years if cared for properly. Just something to be aware of, especially if you're just looking to repaint to cover up some relatively minor blemishes. Are those blemishes worth sacrificing the overall quality of the car's paint job?bullittandy wrote:
Have you inspected the 500 Maaco shops across the country? You can verify that EVERY SINGLE ONE is staffed with "incompetent" workers who do "shoddy" work?
Also, how many cars have you painted in your life?
Paint is about prep work, you do that yourself then almost any paint will stick. If someone has $5000K to spend on a paint job then go get one but if you don't and your car looks like sh*t then a $500 (good single stage)-$1000 (cheapest base clear)paint job will do the trick.
I see where you and Andy are coming from in terms of spending the money on a nearly 20 year old car.NightRiderQ45 wrote:Andy is completely right. There is NO WAY I would spend $4-5k on a paint job when the car, especially the G50 isn't worth that much. I would purchase a FGY33 00' model before I spend that much on just a paint job.
King I spent $2k back in 01 for that paint job. That was a lot of money at the time since since I was a college student. I'm quite sure his prices have gone up for new comers, but I can still get the same price or cheaper if I were to visit him again.
I'm in the same boat it seems. My hood has some bird dropping damage. Either I replace the hood with another black one, or have it repainted. The shop quoted me an extra $200 to do the hood.Paul Wall wrote:I want to do the same thing, but the trunk on my car has bird crap that is etched in (benth the clear coat) (Previous owners fault, I carry a can of bird crap remover in the trunk). so I am contemplating:
1. Replacing the trunk with another one
2. Adding a spoiler to my current one and grab one as a spare incase I want to go back to the spoiler-less look
3. Paint the trunk.
But I also want to fix the Half a** touch up paint that covers the surface rust too.
But I can't wait to hear more responces.
This is exactly what you should do. Tell him you will take off much of the trim and even offer to tape it at his shop (if he'll let you) and then watch them paint.Haitian_King wrote:
I think I may ask my uncle about taking the car to where he got his latest 3 Series from. He's friends with a body shop owner in Brooklyn that purchases damaged cars at auctions, repairs them, and sells them. He got my uncle an 03 3 Series that looks pretty nice, for $8k.
I wonder if he would be able to do something similar for me, as far as paint goes.
Ouch. Fantastic and informative post Jeff.JeffTepper wrote:A total repaint of a car can be a disappointing and expensive adventure so proceed with caution, be realistic within your budget, and avoid prepaying too much if you can.
First, you need to consider what level of quality you are willing to pay for. Generally, people will grossly underestimate the cost of a "nice" paint job and overestimate the quality of "nice" paint job. Take the time to make your expectations clear. Communication is critical when it comes to selecting a painter and reaching a meeting of the minds on what you are buying. Ideally, you want to have a specific car to use as your target, preferably one that your painter has personally painted and one that he agrees is the standard for determining quality for your car.
Second, as others have said, preparation is everything. Unless the car is stripped to bare metal, don't expect your painter to warrant his paint job if it is sitting on someone else's paint or body work. Even if the job is a bare metal respray, a warranty is only as good as the person making the warranty. For example, a guy painting cars out of his garage on weekends will not likely have the financial resources to stand behind his work.
Third, keep in mind that high quality paint and materials can easily run $1000 for a nice quality paint job. Add to that the hours of prep before and finishing (color sanding and polishing) after. If the going labor rate in your area is $50 per hour for professional quality painters, it doesn't take that long for a labor bill to get into the mid 4 figures and sometimes much higher. Be realistic if you want high quality.
Fourth, from the standpoint of being a for profit business, a paint and body shop usually falls into one of three types. At the low end are the high volume shops (Maaco, Sheib, etc.) that generally make their money using lower quality materials and get the cars in and out in the matter of a couple of days. These jobs are generally priced in the $500 to $1000 range. There are exceptions in some cases where the franchise owner actually likes working on older cars and is willing to settle for less profit per job. These jobs are generally priced between $2500 and $4000. Moving up the ladder, are the insurance shops that make their money doing collision repairs. Generally they will avoid total repaints unless it is a "fill job" where they have an open time frame and use the car to fill in the gaps in their schedule when the insurance jobs are scarce. If you are willing to wait ( 6 months plus) these jobs are generally priced between $5000 and $9000. At the top of the market are the rod and custom shops that will do it right at a cost of $10,000 to $25,000 and take 6 months or more depending on what the customer wants.
Speaking from experience, 4 years ago I spent $7500 on a bare metal total repaint where I did all the disassembly and reassembly. I got a high quality driver paint job and I am very pleased. A couple of buddies of mine have each recently done bare metal total repaints on their cars with similar quality requirements and the prices ranged from $8000 to $12000 and took about 6 months each to complete.
Factory Infiniti paint is of very high quality and if you are looking to duplicate that quality, be prepared for an estimate at the higher end of the spectrum. Good luck what ever you decide to do.
Would it matter that some of the trim is also what needs to be painted?bullittandy wrote:
This is exactly what you should do. Tell him you will take off much of the trim and even offer to tape it at his shop (if he'll let you) and then watch them paint.