Drop-in air filter reccomendation?

[Vinny14369]

'08 G37 6MT

Assuming I am not going to install an intake, can you suggest a drop-in air filter instead of the factory filter. Ordinarily, I would have purchased a K&N, but, several members have expressed concern with the oil application and the possible problems associated therewith. Having said that, are there any air filters out there that are washable/re-useable that do not require oil? For example, is the HKS brand washable?!

Suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

~Vinny

[BrandAidDesignG35]

I would suggest K&N, I know some members who have achieved exceptional dyno readings with the K&N drop in filter / Z tube combo.

The Z tube is the intake tube off the 350Z which replaces the G's heavily baffled sound reducing / power reducing intake tract.

I will be either putting in a C5 dual intake (if it fits) or a K&N with stock filter housing connected to hacksawed Fujita F5 4.5" tube.

I've heard 15whp gains with the last suggestion... which I think I will do, it's cheap effective, and I got pulled over for the second time in the G, so I wouldn't mind "Some" sound suppression, the fujita intake whistles and roars under full throttle.

[Poyzinous]

Thats just for the VQ35DE motor dude. He has an 08. The VVEL motor with dual intake. Anyway, leaving a stock airbox there isn't much difference between aftermarket and the factory 16546-JK20A air filters. Just get a whole intake kit from stillen or something.

[BrandAidDesignG35]

My theory still applies though... If you improve the fluidity of the air flow, you'll see gains Even if it's just in the upper 4K + rpm range.

[SVTCOBRA]

I use K&N drop-in filters in all of my cars except for the 05 G Sedan.

I use a paper filter from NAPA (WIX brand). Costs only $5 and some change as opposed to Nissan or Infiniti's $20!!!! The wife's G got worse gas mileage with the K&N over the paper.

Actually, I get a discount at all Napa's and it only cost me $4 and change.

(you've got two filters, so I would def. lean toward reusable.)

[Vinny14369]

Thanks for all of the responses. I am debating whether to purchase an intake. Cost is around $350-$400 in order to obtain cooler sound at 6-10 hp at higher RPMs. I guess it's a judgment call.

In addition, I wasn't sure whether a drop-in K&N was worth the extra cost. I'm thinking unless I purchase an intake, reusable may be the way to go.

Thanks again,

~V

[marlin29311]

It's not really worth the cost/benefit of the drop in filter.

You can get paper filters for $5-10 bucks. So say you can get what SVT was talking about for $5 a filter, meaning $10 a change (dual filters). $10 every 15k miles. K&N's (assuming the $50 price) would be $100 up front.

It will take you 150k miles to match the inital outlay of cash for the K&N's, plus you have to buy the stuff to clean the K&N.

Overall, IMHO, it's not worth the money or the lower filtering capacity for the extra approx. 5hp you might get from the K&N filter.

[TrueWangan]

I think it's tough to go wrong with either the K&N or the HKS one.

[G37 Man]

I have the K&N Filter in my G37 and no problem,cost was around $40 for each.The only problem you will have with oil is when you clean and add the oil yourself,don't over spray and you should be fine.

[kmckis1029]

i use the k&n drop in... i figure ill just buy a new one every 6 months or so and not worry about oiling it... speaking of the devil... im up for a new air filter next month

the k&n drop in combined with a z-tube makes a great sound thats not too loud

[SVTCOBRA]

i use the k&n drop in... i figure ill just buy a new one every 6 months or so and not worry about oiling it... speaking of the devil... im up for a new air filter next month

the k&n drop in combined with a z-tube makes a great sound thats not too loud

It really doesn't take much to clean it!Get an oil kit at Autozone.I keep a paper filter in my building to use when I clean mine.

Or, ship them to me! I'll sell them on ebay/craigslist!!! Could use some go-fast parts money!!

[kmckis1029]

yeah maybe ill try to clean it this time... on my jeep i would just replace the fram filter everytime... i guess its a habit...

how do you clean it? will the oil provide instruction? i worry about the over oiling and messing up the precious MAF

[G37 Man]

yeah maybe ill try to clean it this time... on my jeep i would just replace the fram filter everytime... i guess its a habit...

how do you clean it? will the oil provide instruction? i worry about the over oiling and messing up the precious MAF

there is a kit that K&N sells for cleaning and to re-oil the filter,not expensive but read the directions!

[SVTCOBRA]

The kit has a cleaner and an oiler.First, you spray the filter with the cleaner and let it sit for 10 minutes.Next, you wash it out in the sink by holding it under the faucet till it looks clean. Next, let it air dry. Might want to let it dry out over night.Finally, spray it with the oil following directions. You shoot it like you are spray painting.....aim past it, shoot and then move across the filter.Let it sit for 10-20 minutes and look for any white spots. More than likely, you will be good to go.Also, read the article on K&N about MAF's.

[pfarmer]

'08 G37 6MT

Assuming I am not going to install an intake, can you suggest a drop-in air filter instead of the factory filter. Ordinarily, I would have purchased a K&N, but, several members have expressed concern with the oil application and the possible problems associated therewith. Having said that, are there any air filters out there that are washable/re-useable that do not require oil? For example, is the HKS brand washable?!

Suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

~Vinny

I have a K&N on my other car and have used them for years, especially leaving near Mt. St. Helens right after the eruption where you needed to clean your filters a lot, along with replacing wheel bearings, you became really good at doing certain types of maintenance for awhile.

The problem is I have read some reviews on the K&N filters where flow tests were done. Basically the tests were done using a Beemer if I recall correctly and the K&N lost over time. Immediately after cleaning the air flow was higher than the stock filter however it allowed larger particles through. Shortly after the filter started to pick up some dirt it at least equaled the stock filter in size of particles it allowed through. Problem is it also ended up with less air flow and the thought was because the stock filter had a greater surface area. The end result was over the life of the stock filter it was better at capture of particles and had a greater average air flow then the K&N over the same number of miles.

Not sure if this could end up being the case with the G however it would be worth some looking into to see if it may hold true here as well.

Now as far as cleaning. I find that not that hard at all and you can get away with not using the K&N cleaning kit. Just make sure you rinse really well afterwards. As far as oiling, carefully follow the instructions and just don't overload it with oil.

Perry

[kmckis1029]

how do yall feel about Dry air filters? suppuse to be maintience free with simular increased airflow over the stock filter...

http://www.autoanything.com/ai....aspx

[pfarmer]

how do yall feel about Dry air filters? suppuse to be maintience free with simular increased airflow over the stock filter...

http://www.autoanything.com/ai....aspx

Haven't went to the link yet, but based on what I said about some studies with the K&N versus a dry filter, it is a matter of average airflow over the life of the filter and partical size collected. An air filter could and should be looked as like an insurance policy when debating the cost. We all can easily see that a filter versus no filter is probably a good idea even though it will provide a restriction in airflow. The trick is the balance. I would look at various studies for all the oil based filters as far as partical collection size, surface area, etc. and compare those with the dry ones over the life span of the dry filters and then pick the correct one for you. The life span may be your tolerance to how often you want to change filters and have little to do with the actual cost at that time. For others it may have everything to do with the cost of the filters.

But just for example you expect to go 10k miles between filter changes. If a dry one gave better partical size collection and better airflow during those 10k miles is it the one you would select? If not and the wet filter filled that bill then you would take it out every 10k or whatever, wash it, oil it, and reinstall it. The last part really isn't all that hard to do labor wise.

I would say what is number one important is partical size, you simple want to keep fod to a minimum in any engine. Once fod is taken into consideration how long does a particular filter provide the desired airflow. Surface area was the reason the dry filter won in the studies I read compared to the K&N, which to keep this in perspective was a while ago and K&N may well have changed their filter designs to compensate.

The average airflow simply was greater longer in the dry filter versus the K&N. The K&N only had the advantage there at the very beginning. However the dry filter beat the K&N at the very start for partical size collection and the K&N only caught up later and later was also when it started to have its decline in airflow.

While the tests I read did not include the G, if this held true with the G then I would go for the dry filter. But it just may not hold true so then the other factors would enter in for me, the cost of replacement versus the cost of cleaning and initial outlay. You need to also remember to factor in the cost of performance lost as well since this is a number that can hit you at the pump.

Perry

[Vinny14369]

Thank you very much!

[kmckis1029]

thanks for the good info... i might just try a dry filter if the local parts store sells them... when i replace my k&n next month... i dont think ima clean my filter... call me lazy i guess...

im a more of "just replace it" type of person when it comes to any filter in my cars... $40-$50 every 10-15k is ok for me... it would be diffent if i had a g37 i would have two sides... i would definately just clean them...

if you take the "power duct" part of the stock air box off it looks just like the stillen intake and you get that sucking sound the stillen/JWT has... just not as loud...

is there any advantage to having the "power duct" piece on? like less heat soak?

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

JWT FTMFW