Driveshaft Question

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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ganma_ca
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 1:19 am
Car: 240sxxx
1CA +1SR = 3.8L

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So the question I'm wondering to this day is why Nissan made their driveshafts split instead of a single piece? It seems pretty fubar and they are still doing it. Why though???? I think it's ghey that I have a center section with bearings that falls apart because it can't handle torque.... There are however a few reasons I think might be right for nissan doing this.... Saves the diff and transmission in case something goes awry? Doesn't stay attached and becomes a bludgeon that attacks your chassis should a u-joint go to poop? Other then that I see no use for it's worthless center section that is uber crap. So onto the question for those of you driveshaft wizzzz's. Could you hack the center section out and have a driveshaft shop weld a center section in and balance it to make it a solid drive shaft? Or should I just find a place that makes custom one off's? (i knew a guy on ebay that was doing steal ones for $180 shipped and that was some bomb goodness) He's not on there anymore:( I have needless to say gone through 2 driveshafts since last year and it's begining to irk me to say the least.... Anyone have ideas? Or know someone who does the solid single piece driveshafts for cheap???


bentvalves
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Car: 89 Silvia K's

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solid one piece driveshafts will eat other parts of your driveline, or transmission gears if your driving hard.

Look into JDM 1 piece setups, they still have a rubber shock reducer closest to the gearbox.

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sjbsuperman1425
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so why do people get 1-piece steel/aluminum driveshafts?

bentvalves
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cause they drive like vaginas and if you have factory rubber subframe isolators, solid one piece driveshafts with an open differential isnt all that bad.

install some solid subframe inserts, LSD, and some decent sized tires and watch driveability go downhill and parts start breaking.

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r34 gtr
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^ Its fun as hell breaking driveline parts though.

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ganma_ca
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 1:19 am
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1CA +1SR = 3.8L

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Those JDM 1 piece ds'd sound pretty good. (with the absorbing capabilities). You aren't a weiner for having a single solid ds either. And I think that was a pretty bogus remark. I worked fleet service for yellow cab for many years, and all the old crown vic's which more then a few of them were former police interceptors that got thrashed on all the time and not taken care of at all had solid driveshafts and never had any problems until close to 300K on their driveshafts/train. Never ate up trannies or diffs. Then again we aren't exactly talking nissan there. But it goes to show if your sh*t is built right a solid ds is the way to go. They wouldn't make them just because lol, there's a reason why solid works better for certain circumstances. Though if it's just a daily driver I guess sticking with the oem one for some plain jane granny shifting slow n no go non-sense is fine Well I guess I'll try to source a jdm one because that sounds just what I'm looking for and just the right amount of b@d@$$ness for what I use it for;)

bentvalves
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Car: 89 Silvia K's

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put a solid aluminum one piece in your 5 speed 240 making 300whp and up and thrash it with constant launches and typical abuse and tell me how many axles you break, or gears in your transmission you shear.

would you like to buy my solid aluminum one piece I have sitting in the garage?

recently when my spec pressure plate let go at over 400 flywheel hp, my 2 piece USDM driveshaft from a high mileage 240 held up just fine

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ganma_ca
Posts: 487
Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 1:19 am
Car: 240sxxx
1CA +1SR = 3.8L

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If I could afford it I would! I need something shipped for around $180 or less. I still would like to see if I could find that jdm version though. That sounds perfect. Don't think I'd be breaking many axles with a vlsd, maybe more often with a 2 way or something. And if I had stuck with the original 18 year old ones lol. Well if what you're claiming is true about your oem high mileage 2 piece holding up WTF IS MY PROBLEM!?!??!?!?!?!?!?! I've shreaded 2 center sections in less then a year. Both were checked throughly before install, and also checked for being balanced, and the center support was always torqued to spec. So wtf is happening lol???? Or maybe I just had horrible luck? Not sure what to make of it.... So my simple solution was to get rid of it entirely by buying a single piece? Any suggestions? Else wise single jdm here I come (if I can find one, and no one better say yahoo auctions japan !!!!)

meminto
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Do you know the full history of this car? Has it ever been stacked?

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sjbsuperman1425
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OP, i vote just get a solid STEEL driveshaft.

dash
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.....and everything is all relative.full street corollas go 9s with solid 1pc driveshafts, a rear end dancing around back there, and wheels up launches... no issues.Our much heavier starions have IRS & steel 1pc driveshafts. Heck, one spec3 clutch just held up to close to 600 ft-lbs tq at the tires

Shock and torque breaks driveline parts. Go see what the KAT folks use

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ganma_ca
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 1:19 am
Car: 240sxxx
1CA +1SR = 3.8L

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Yeah I was planning on getting a steal one for sure if I can't find the JDM version. As far as I know the car has never been wrecked and I have looked at the frame and it looks straight. (but then again that's just eyebawling it) About the "Shock" comment very true, not like i'm driving at 30 mph 1 second and wanting my car to do 100 and mashing the clutch and gas every second. A little bit of weekday dragging for some test and tunes here is about all the "shock" this drivetrain would see. Now I could understand if I beat the piss out of it drifting dragging and autocrossing every week, but that's not the case. I have been having a little fun with it but never putting the driveshaft under any shock like circumstances, but have already gone through 2 center sections. So it seems like getting a single piece is the way to go. I will check out what ds the kat peeps are using though. And I would bet money it's more then likely a single piece. I would just like to get things as simplified with this car as possible so I'm not constantly having to check the weakest links.


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