Anyone know how to remove the door panel without rolling the window down? My drivers side window does not operate and is stuck in the up position. I tried to replace the switch, with no luck, so I'm just guessing it's likely the motor. Since I can't lower the window, I can't access the screw on the outside of the door needed to remove everything on the inside. Any advice?? It looks hard enough to get the panel off without doing damage, but I can't even get to that part.

I had to replace a ps window on my '90, and had similar issues in that the window could not be lowered due to issues with the raising arm adjustments. The panel can be mostly removed up to the point of that screw mentioned, in that it will be loose up to that point, by removing the screws and assorted parts from the panel as normal. Once the panel is loosened that top inside cover with that screw under the seat belts can sometimes be maneuvered a little and enough to get to the two screws to the panel...but mine was broken at that single screw location and came off OK. Since it's covered by the seat belt and therefore held in place, I tend to not re-assemble that screw upon reassembly and instead rely on the snap clips below and try to "shim" the cover close at the top with the seat belt bolt and assorted washers.
Once you have the panel as freed up as you can, you can access the internals somewhat better, and although a total pain in the arse you can remove the window glass fasteners through the holes in the door skin. You'll need a LOT of patience and to study the layout.

I have fixed several non operating windows and non of them were the motors, most were the relay/amp or some other mechanical linkage. The window motors on these cars a very reliable, unless you really really abuse them. Try looking at the window relay/amp first, its also easier to get to. It’s located about mid door behind the door trim, I was able to get to this with just the bottom half of the door panel pulled outwards a few inches. Here is a write up on what fails in them, I just used a soldering iron to remelt/ the joints.

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.as ... id=1126623

Thank you!

itsa - I searched and read a ton and somehow, did not come across this relay / amp. I hear a "click" inside the door when I hit the switch, but that's it. So to make sure I understand this right you just unplugged this unit, popped off the cap, and added new solder to any solder that looked cracked??
Also, any special trick to popping the door panel off without tearing up the mounting clips? Everything I read it looks people destroy things pulling off the panel

LetsGo wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 27, 2019 1:01 pm

Thank you!

itsa - I searched and read a ton and somehow, did not come across this relay / amp. I hear a "click" inside the door when I hit the switch, but that's it. So to make sure I understand this right you just unplugged this unit, popped off the cap, and added new solder to any solder that looked cracked??
Also, any special trick to popping the door panel off without tearing up the mounting clips? Everything I read it looks people destroy things pulling off the panel

Yeah that right, disconnect harness and unbolt it from the door. Once you have all the screws off there are three pop out plastic clips on the bottom and 2 or three up the side. Keep the b pillar attached and prop open the bottom panel. I layed on the ground to do most of the removal. You may need to pull off or cut some of the plastic film that is glued to the door frame too. The black rectangular box is pretty obvious once you look under the door panel.

got it - thank you for the guidance. I will give it a shot!

No problem, glad to help. Found a you tube video of the window amp, its a RHD drivers door, but just a mirror image to the LHD.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPkH4hVVAJ0

LetsGo wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 27, 2019 1:01 pm

Thank you! Also, any special trick to popping the door panel off without tearing up the mounting clips? Everything I read it looks people destroy things pulling off the panel

As It'sa300zx mentioned you can start at the bottom and loosen the panel enough to do some work. Be sure to replace the plastic covering even though it's a total mess with the black goop, it keeps moisture from soaking into the fiberboard/whatever panel material and also the belt tensioner.
Best bet for removing the clips is to slide in a thin putty knife blade to locate them carefully between the panel and door, insert another on the other side and carefully rotate them to remove the clip. The clip insert ends are fragile and easily/usually bent/smashed (keep in mind for re-install), replacements are cheap and available at Z1 or CZP...a recommended move given age/brittle/damaged and will help your future work. Been into mine several times, and will be soon again replacing leather inserts and trim. Be sure to locate/remove all of the screws as well, a few are hidden well and will hold you up if not removed or damage areas you don't want damaged.
Hope this helps!

DCaff and Itsa - THANK YOU IT WORKED!! I followed all of your guidance here and accessed the amp without any damage to the panel. I took it apart and all of the solder connections looked fine, to my naked eye anyways. But I de-soldered a bunch of connections and re-did them and kept trying until bang, it operated. Thank you both very much for the help and guidance. Definitely saved me some cash!! Plus I learned a few things and now know how to get in there for future stereo / speaker work.

You're welcome, I'm glad it worked out. Chalk up another one for these window motors rarely failing and the problems are usually the window amps. I wish more user would report back with the solutions that fixed their issues; Thank you for that.

Without your link I would have had no clue. It was my first time soldering anything. I guess I'm going to try next the same thing with the clock. I'd like to keep the stock clock, and it doesn't work at all. Maybe the same issue with cracked soldering on the circuit board...

Well the clock repair will take a little more soldering skill than just remelting the existing solder. It requires a 181 ohm resister replacement. Here is another link that should help:

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/clock/clock.html