Driver's side Caliper too tight

[JReask]

I replaced the front brake pads today. The right side went on perfectly. The caliper slid right over the pads and the pin bolt went in effortlessly. The left side was another story. The pads went in good but when I went to push the caliper back over the pads, the caliper would not go over the housing. The piston was all the way back too. There was about 3/16" of an inch clearance on the inside/piston side of the caliper. The outside shoe was super tight against the caliper and I could not get it lined up with the bolt hole. FInally I loosened up the top pin bolt and was able to get the caliper back on but the rotor wouldn't turn because of the pads being so tight. I can smell the pad wearing after I drive a few miles. NO smell on the right side. Are the pads too wide? They were all the same thickness. The right side went on great. Anyone have any ideas? HELP !!

edit: I forgot to mention, this is a 2002 QX4 4 wheel drive.

edit: I also had to beat the lug wrench with a hammer to get the lug nuts off. Somebody must have torqued them down with a 3/4" impact. Stupidity at its finest.



Thanks
JR

[ARKQX33V6]

Did you verify the width of the pads before trying to put them on?
Did you take the overall width of the front discs before re-assembly?
Did you remove the calipers completely and verify the rear of the pad mounting clean, lubricated and verify the piston travel with clean surfaces, seal points, and piston all the way back?
Did you have to open the hydraulic system bleeders?
When assembling did you lubricate the bolts and verify that the caliper is able to float?
Did you dress the disc surfaces?

New pads on existing discs will need time to match and mate up with the 2 surfaces of the disc and the pad.

I cannot answer your question because from what I read I have no understanding of what you actually did, but I realize you had difficulty.

[JReask]

I did all of the aforementioned. I did not have to open the bleeder valve. The right side went on flawlessly.
The left caliper would not go over the caliper bracket. It seemed like the pad was too wide (thick). With the caliper resting against the left outer pad and the pad resting against the rotor, the caliper would not close over the bracket. There was 3/16" or so clearance between the piston and the inner pad. Imagine if you will, if the outer pad was thinner, the caliper would have closed over the caliper bracket. Either the pad was too thick or possibly the rotor was too thick? Highly doubt either.

I finally removed the top pin bolt and was able to get the bolts lined up and the caliper closed over the bracket but it was in a bind. I could not turn the rotor by hand. The pad now smells after driving.

ALso the steering wheel seems to be off center now.

JR

[yeldogt]

If the pad is indeed tight against the rotor and you drive the car it will overheat the rotor and it will warp -- also the heat from the rotor will damage the hub.

This is not something that you can wait to fix.

[JReask]

It is now at the local tire / repair shop .

Thanks

[JReask]

Update:

The lower slider was froze up. The repair shop repaired it for $50.

Thanks for all the input.

JR

[Empty V]

Update:

The lower slider was froze up. The repair shop repaired it for $50.

Thanks for all the input.

JR

What is a lower slider?

[JReask]

Update:

The lower slider was froze up. The repair shop repaired it for $50.

Thanks for all the input.

JR

What is a lower slider?

The pin bolt is threaded into the lower slider. IT "slides" back and forth to allow the caliper to float.

Technically it is called the Main Pin.