Drive Shaft U-Joint Replacement

[zx2max]

My 2006 M35X has been clicking for several weeks now when I am driving down the road so I assumed it was the CV axle. After tons of searching and help from this community I realized ebay was the only place to get one. It just arrived and I am attempting to do the job in my driveway before the next Nor'easter decides to slam the east coast again but I just realized that wasn't the problem. When I look passed the CV axle I can see the driveshaft is missing a bolt or I am guessing that is a u-joint in there. I can see in clunking around when I turn the axle. Could someone provide some pointers on fixing this issue? I am mechanically inclined but far from being a mechanic. lol. Can what I think is a u-joint be replaced or does the whole shaft have to be replaced?
https://flic.kr/p/25s1p2R

[zx2max]

well I did a little searching around on here and it seems that the whole driveshaft has to be replaced. So any tips or steps on replacing the driveshaft that may make my life easier? Also, I see the price varies greatly for the part. Anywhere from $200-$600. I'm leaning towards one for about $200 which has replaceable u-joints. Any thoughts or opinions on buying a $200 vs $600 part?

[EdBwoy]

Not focused in the driveshaft only, but here is what I found in the how-tos:
howto-2006-2010-m35x-transfer-case-repl ... 15239.html

Maybe you can use some pointers from there.

[midnightclub619]

That looks like the Front Propeller shaft?

[midnightclub619]

found this in the FSM

Per the FSM,
Removal and Installation NDS000EC
REMOVAL
1. Remove engine undercover with a power tool.
2. If necessary, remove heat bracket.
3. Remove the three way catalyst (right bank) with a power tool. Refer to EX-3, "EXHAUST SYSTEM" .
4. Put matching marks onto propeller shaft flange yoke and final
drive companion flange.
CAUTION:
For matching marks, use paint. Do not damage propeller
shaft flange and companion flange.
5. Remove the propeller shaft fixing bolts.
6. Remove propeller shaft from the front final drive and transfer.

Removal of the right catalytic converter should give you enough access to it. It's recommended to replace old bolts with new ones from dealership. and torque the bolts per the FSM specifications.

[zx2max]

Thanks guys! The "How To" and the instructions from the FSM were very helpful. Unfortunately, I just could not get the bolts off the catalytic converter to remove it. They are extremely rusty and despite all efforts they won't budge and just get stripped the more I try. I eventually cut off the bottom ones but can't even get my angle grinder up to the top 3 so I think I'll have to throw in the towel and pay a shop to do it. Which kills me because I have the propeller shaft unbolted just no room to get it out.

[midnightclub619]

@zx2max - sorry to hear that. you were so close. did you finally end up taking it to a shop?

[USMC5811]

I had the same issue with my 2007 M35X. Like you, I bought a driveshaft online, and then realized I was in wayyyyy over my head. Luckily I didn't start the job, and I just decided to take it to a shop to get it done. Clicking went away immediately, and the new drive shaft has been holding up perfectly fine for 3 years. The only issue was that my cats were so rusted that the heat shield deteriorated when it was removed, leaving me with a new rattle. I used metal hose clamps to snug the heat shield back to the cat, and all is well.

[macgiver]

mac, crazy , but it looks in the picture like you can unbolt the flange - drop shaft slightly enough - hammer out / install U-joint - put it back ?? But I'm not right there "Live and in Color" .

[zx2max]

Hey guys! Sorry it took me so long to report back the end result. I paid a shop to do it since I couldn't get the the rusty cat bolts out. I initially just wanted them to remove the cat but eventually had them do the propeller shaft too because the mechanic just didn't want to do the job because it was a PITA. I've never been to a shop where they are literally tried to talk me out of doing business with them. Anyways, they charged me about $300 to do the job and I had paid about $210 for the shaft. Not too bad I suppose. Unless you want to count the CV shaft I bought first and can't return when I thought it was causing the clicking. Then we can add another $100 to the mix. I still had some bad steering wheel shaking afterwards so I was concerned but turns out that a belt broke in one of my tires. All of my tires look like hell and need to be replaced. So I put on a temporary used tire until I get some funds together for a nice new set and all is good. Thank you all for your help and support!

[midnightclub619]

@zx2max - thanks for the update. Crazy story about the shop tho. Hopefully you get those new tires soon. it'll make a difference.