Dripping from A/T drain plug despite using OEM crush washer

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Infinitiguy19
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I have changed the Automatic Transmission (A/T) fluid three times at least this year. Thats because I get a slight leak from the drain plug and I don't understand why. The first time I forgot to get a OEM drain plug (Crush) washer and used a rubber one. Well that did not work. I went to my friend at a local Nissan dealer and he gave me some. I used on the second time and put it on backwards (I didn't know it was possible). So I change the fluid once more (Never hurts!) and this time I put it on correctly (according to a Q buddy). And yet still it leaks a little bit.

I changed the oil in the rain and have not seen on drop when using a OEM crush washer (Don't remember if I put in on backwards or not).

I bet Brian is laughing as he reads this! :)

What am I doing wrong?

Normally I would be embarrassed to ask such a question but since the Q section is so DEAD....


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goody90q45
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Is the oil pan mating surface flat? Any gouges or scratches? Any leftover crush washer on its face? Is it time to try a new drain plug?

Drips are annoying.

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Infinitiguy19
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The hole for the drain plug on the oil pan is flat, I think but I never looked at it really. We are getting a blizzard (20 Inches of snow) so I can't really check it easily.

Their is a left over crush washer burned into the drain plug but like you said that is not removable. Other than that the drain plug is flat.

I tightened it as much as I could without going too far overboard. But that has not changed anything.

Drips suck indeed!

OwnerCS
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Have you thought about a Fumoto Valve? I believe it has a different style washer that might seal.

I'd like to have Fumoto or a Quick drain valve for Oil, and Trans Fluid.

http://www.fumotousa.com/

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Lokim
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Get a new plug, washer, and finish it off with a little PTFE tape.

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Q451990
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No need for the tape. The washer is placed correctly when the wider side is facing toward the pan, not the bolt head. That said, I installed all of mine backwards before observing how the factory installed the one on our G during the first oil change - and never had a leak. Any chance the pan or bolt threads are stripped out and it's not tightening down well?

Heath

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AZhitman
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Infinitiguy19 wrote:Their is a left over crush washer burned into the drain plug but like you said that is not removable. Other than that the drain plug is flat.
No, the old crush washer is the culprit. Get it off there. It's soft, so you'll need a pick and a pair of wire cutters.

Tightening it down more isn't helping.

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Infinitiguy19
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OwnerCS wrote:Have you thought about a Fumoto Valve? I believe it has a different style washer that might seal.

I'd like to have Fumoto or a Quick drain valve for Oil, and Trans Fluid.

http://www.fumotousa.com/
Nice but I am paranoid and fear someone might find such a valve and drain the Engine or A/T oil, without me knowing it till its too late.
AZhitman wrote:
Infinitiguy19 wrote:Their is a left over crush washer burned into the drain plug but like you said that is not removable. Other than that the drain plug is flat.
No, the old crush washer is the culprit. Get it off there. It's soft, so you'll need a pick and a pair of wire cutters.

Tightening it down more isn't helping.
Like I said the old crush washer is burned in as in part of the drain plug and I think sanding it off is the only way its coming off. Plus it does not look like its very thick. It simply looks like some of the copper (The OEM drain plug washer is made from copper) is burned on to the metal drain plug.
Lokim wrote:Get a new plug, washer, and finish it off with a little PTFE tape.
The factory never used PTFE tape and never will I in this case.
Q451990 wrote: Re: Dripping from A/T drain plug despite using OEM crush was
by AZhitman » Today, 1:20 am

Infinitiguy19 wrote:
Their is a left over crush washer burned into the drain plug but like you said that is not removable. Other than that the drain plug is flat.


No, the old crush washer is the culprit. Get it off there. It's soft, so you'll need a pick and a pair of wire cutters.

Tightening it down more isn't helping.
Exactly Heath.

Well back to digging my car out of the 1.5 feet of snow. :(
Last edited by Infinitiguy19 on Mon Dec 27, 2010 2:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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AZhitman
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New drain plug. Simplest solution.

The OEM drain plug is not made of copper, by the way.

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Infinitiguy19
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AZhitman wrote:New drain plug. Simplest solution.
Yeah unfortunately, Whats the charge this time I wonder.
AZhitman wrote:The OEM drain plug is not made of copper, by the way.
I meant to add Drain Plug Washer. :blush:

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paranoidjack
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Infinitiguy19 wrote:Nice but I am paranoid and fear someone might find such a valve and drain the Engine or A/T oil, without me knowing it till its too late.
And I thought I was paranoid!

AZ's right - it's the old washer, you just can't expect those surfaces to mate properly. Clear as day, just get that crap off of there and new bolt/washer, end of story!

PS: Paul you guys got hammered, here on the Cape we got rain, MAYBE 1/2" on the ground! Drive carefully!

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Hit up our sponsors. THey're all offering smoking deals. Order some oil filters and some BG44K while you;re at it - make it worth your while. :)

qship96
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BG44K ????? why would you spend money on that over-priced weaksauce ?? It was neutered over 5 years ago!!!!!

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HAHAHAHAHA! Weaksauce! :rotfl

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AZhitman
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qship96 wrote:BG44K ????? why would you spend money on that over-priced weaksauce ?? It was neutered over 5 years ago!!!!!
I still have a few cans left from an old case. My bad, I forgot they destroyed the formulation.

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Infinitiguy19
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paranoidjack wrote:
Infinitiguy19 wrote:Nice but I am paranoid and fear someone might find such a valve and drain the Engine or A/T oil, without me knowing it till its too late.
And I thought I was paranoid!

AZ's right - it's the old washer, you just can't expect those surfaces to mate properly. Clear as day, just get that crap off of there and new bolt/washer, end of story!

PS: Paul you guys got hammered, here on the Cape we got rain, MAYBE 1/2" on the ground! Drive carefully!
I bought a brand new OEM drain plug and I some what wish I didn't. I paid $7 and I see thats its just a plain old bolt with no Nissan markings on it other than that it is shiny. When I get the ABS Actuator replaced I will also replace the drain plug.

Jack we did get hit with a heck of a storm.

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Infinitiguy19 wrote:I bought a brand new OEM drain plug and I some what wish I didn't. I paid $7 and I see thats its just a plain old bolt with no Nissan markings on it other than that it is shiny. When I get the ABS Actuator replaced I will also replace the drain plug.

Jack we did get hit with a heck of a storm.
Yeah, I get my bolts from Autozone. One of the items that's just fine elsewhere, observe torque specs and clean mating surfaces, that's more important than using a $7 bolt.

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Infinitiguy19
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I bought a OEM new bolt and that did not stop the leak, Yes I used a OEM copper crush washer. I ended up replacing the entire transmission oil pan at $33 (Not bad surprisingly). No idea how the old one got stripped but I will see if I can use the old one to design a bigger capacity oil pan.

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flyingbrick
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No idea how it got stripped?

Maybe you should buy a tq wrench?

Everyones thinking it.

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Infinitiguy19
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I have a TORQUE WRENCH!!!!

As I said I have no idea how the pan got stripped as I have gentle hands when working with cars.

I wish I knew what everyone was thinking too. :)

And yes you don't seem weird and creepy at all because you dig up other peoples topics and post rude things in them that don't really help.

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flyingbrick
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No need to yell about it, jeez. How was that rude?

I'm not digging either, was just going through the forum and noticed you were having trouble with a leaky plug and a crush washer that you couldn't get off. You also said the thread was stripped and that you didn't know how it happened.

Well im helping you by letting you know that often holes strip out like this when bolts are done up too tight.

You can avoid doing bolts up too tight by using a TQ wrench.

It is understandable though that you would overtighten the plug in an attempt to make it seal. Don't worry about it! happens all the time to some people, im told.

Now back to finding out which oil filter is more efficient. We are all gagging to know.

;-)

-Nathan

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Infinitiguy19
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I think this is the first time I have seen you post in a topic of mine. So your telling me you would have posted in my topics had I not argued with you in the other one?

How do you know the transmission oil pan was'nt stripped when I bought the car?!?!?! Why do you always assume things?

I don't know if you know this but you should consult the service manual if in doubt of torque settings for bolts. But then their I go assume you don't know this.

Can't wait to see what you have to say about fuel filters!

This is what I get for wanting to add to a dead forum. :(

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flyingbrick
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You tell me I always assume things, and yet you are the one who assumed tightening the plug would make it seal better.

Why did you post here about it rather than consulting the service manual?

Why are you getting so agitated. I'm only trying to help you :-)

I don't understand why you would need to post a post about fuel or oil filters. Sure, lets cut oil filters open to see if there is anything going on inside the engine but not to check OEM vs XXX efficiency vs cost because thats just lame.

-Nathan

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Infinitiguy19
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The thing is I never overtightened the drain plug. Did you even read the topic? I never tightened the drain plug more than enough other than to crush the OEM copper CRUSH washer.

I posted here by mistake thinking I was not the only one this has happened too. I see now that this could only happen to me, THE PROBLEM WAS SOLVED AND THE LESSON LEARNED.

I never said anything about cost VS efficiency in my fuel filter topic, There you go assuming things AGAIN! I am simply looking to see how good the OEM fuel filter is compared to aftermarket ones. But hey I am sure manufactures care nothing about costs, thats why we had the whole Ford Pinto crisis (BECAUSE THEY WANTED TO SAVE MONEY).

So if you want me to stop posting in the Q45 section as well, then by all means! I promised to never post in the General Chat, 2002-2006 Q45/VK45DE and Nissan Rogue or Murano topics (Can't remember which). And to this day that has not changed and nor will it in the near future!

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flyingbrick
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read this again and tell me whats wrong

"I never said anything about cost VS efficiency in my fuel filter topic, There you go assuming things AGAIN! I am simply looking to see how good the OEM fuel filter is compared to aftermarket ones. But hey I am sure manufactures care nothing about costs, thats why we had the whole Ford Pinto crisis (BECAUSE THEY WANTED TO SAVE MONEY)."

You say that im assuming things and suggest its bad, and yet you then go on a rant about cost of manufacture so it IS about cost and my assumption was RIGHT.

people don't want you to post in General Chat, 2002-2006 Q45/VK45DE and Nissan Rogue topics?... thats THREE different sections you have been ousted from. THREE. take a hint. somethings not working for you. Maybe its the sheriffs badge you put on your forehead?

Maybe not everyone appreciates SUPER SERVICE MANUAL MAAAAaaaan (thats you) and his sidekick ORIGIONAL EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURING DOOOoooog (thats your imaginary friend...who has to be a dog because even imaginary people think that chatting about filter media and oil changes is boring.) as much as I do (sarcasm).

woof woof.

Upside. Keeping me entertained while im at home sick.

-Nathan

oh and remember all that about this forum being full of smart people who don't use acronyms. You said that.

Well you have used quite a few in this thread. OEM, VS, A/T, ABS, Q etc etc.

And explain this "I tightened it as much as I could without going too far overboard"

Shouldn't that have said " i tightened it with my wrench to the factory specified torque"

I just wonder how you could actually "I tightened it as much as I could without going too far overboard" without noticing that its already stripped.

because I have tightened quite a few in my time and its always been quite obvious either when its stripped or when its already been stripped.

Also you said "I never tightened the drain plug more than enough other than to crush the OEM copper CRUSH washer"

So if your stripped plug hole is not too badly stripped and you can still crush the copper crush washer using the factory tq setting on your wrench HOW does the stripped hole affect the sealing of that washer or the cleanliness of the mating surfaces.


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