Drilled/ Slotted rotors...any good?

Post by **Big Tone** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 7:11 am

Ok, I had my brakes changed about 3 months ago and the worst possible place (Pep Boys), before I found a real mechanic. I was told that the next time I had my pads changed I would probably have to have my rotors changed, as well. I was on eBay today and saw this:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

My question is are drilled/slotted rotors really any good, or should I just stick with OEM? If drilled/slotted rotors are good, is this a good price for front and rear rotors/pads for the J?

Post by **DominickJ30** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:12 pm

DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH THIS DEADBEAT SELLER.

I ordered from these guys only to wait a week and receive and email saying that their zinc plating comapny went out of business and they refuse to send me the rotors.

I just did my brakes, with these rotors and these pads:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

Great quality, and great price.

Here is a link to the pads.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalo...=1684

I got the raybestos quiet stop ceramic.

I still need to bleed my braked but what a night and day difference from my old rotors.

Post by **93j30t** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:40 pm

i delt with speedy dynamic (when i did business on ebay.... too many deadbeat sellers) i've noticed some great results with mine, better stop times and no vibration. also it makes it look sporty with the bbs style rims i have. I put the rotors on myself and had little problem doing so, go with speedy dynamic or go local... at least local you can ***** someone out in person

Post by **driverdriver** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:23 am

I believe Stillen makes a set of very good drilled, slotted rotors for the J. I recall someone had used them and where impressed.

Powerstop cross drilled rotors got an endorsement recently from a J owner.

http://www.powerstopbrakes.com

Personally for everyday driving, I still prefer OEM with ceramic brake pads. It makes for a powerful combination.

I have cross drilled OEM rotors in the Acura and notice that they seem to rust faster. salt likes to hang out in the holes.

Post by **Big Tone** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 4:46 am

So from what you all are saying, drilled/slotted rotors are good, but this seller is FOS. Good to know. DOminic, I took a look at the auction you sent me. I'll probably go with them when the time comes. What pads did you go with?

Post by **DominickJ30** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:55 pm

RAYBESTOS Part # PGD587QSFRONT PAD SET {QUIETSTOP - CERAMIC}

RAYBESTOS Part # PGD588QSREAR PAD SET {QUIETSTOP - CERAMIC}

Post by **93j30t** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 12:19 pm

^^^ i agree on those pads

Post by **DominickJ30** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 8:33 pm

93j30t wrote:^^^ i agree on those pads

Hehe, I think I got the recomendation from you 93j30t.

Post by **nismofly** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 8:43 pm

FYI, drilling is worthless period, slotting is worthless for the street

get a nice set of blank rotors, some good pads, and youll be set

Post by **cesoj** » Sat Apr 22, 2006 2:34 pm

Keep in mind that slotted rotors have a lower limit of resurfacing to about 3 times. This means that you will have to replace them sooner than originals. Also there is a higher tendancy to warp and crack so be carefull.. I have used powerslots and were good until I had to replace in a year......

Post by **chiller** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:52 am

big tone, check this thread:

zerothread/165906

i have used drilled rotors just fine...

nismofly and cesjo, i dunno why you needed to replace your rotors after 1 year, i've had mine on for about 4 years and 60k with no problems... and i do notice a performance difference when i was going up and down mountains, not so much now that i've moved to ontario where its totally flat...but living in CO/UT they kept the fade away fairly well...

Post by **nismofly** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:59 am

i never said youd have to replace after a year, but they do cause stress points

also, im not sure how you couldve had less fade with drilled, thats not even what their original purpose was...unless you were running some funky pads

like i said, blank rotors, good pads, change the fluid

Website · Post by **diamond** » Wed May 03, 2006 8:44 am

i been running porterfield cross drilled treated rotors and and r4-s pads from porterfield with lines.awsome.dont have to be turned every time you turn around.i hate that,gets pretty old fast.

Post by **Big Tone** » Wed May 03, 2006 9:26 am

Thanks for all the info guys! This will probably be one of the first things I do after I get my front end work done and my timing belt changed. I'm looking at about $400 worth of work that needs to be done with another $680 for the timing belt. I really need to learn how to do this stuff myself!

Post by **DominickJ30** » Wed May 10, 2006 12:07 pm

Big Tone wrote:Thanks for all the info guys! This will probably be one of the first things I do after I get my front end work done and my timing belt changed. I'm looking at about $400 worth of work that needs to be done with another $680 for the timing belt. I really need to learn how to do this stuff myself!

What shop is bending you over on the 680 for the timing belt? I can probably get you about 3 places that will do it for half that much.

Post by **Big Tone** » Wed May 10, 2006 3:50 pm

DominickJ30 wrote:
What shop is bending you over on the 680 for the timing belt? I can probably get you about 3 places that will do it for half that much.

Including labor? By the way, that price is for the timing and tension belts. If you have a shop that will do it cheaper, let me know!

Post by **0wn3r** » Wed May 10, 2006 4:20 pm

nismofly wrote:i never said youd have to replace after a year, but they do cause stress points

stress points? explain plz.

Post by **DominickJ30** » Thu May 11, 2006 7:11 am

The kit itself is like 340 bucks, but I am guessing you wont get all the parts that you would get with the kit from the place you are going to.

What parts are they changing, just the belts and the water pump?

Post by **Big Tone** » Thu May 11, 2006 5:19 pm

DominickJ30 wrote:The kit itself is like 340 bucks, but I am guessing you wont get all the parts that you would get with the kit from the place you are going to.

What parts are they changing, just the belts and the water pump?

That price is for everything and the parts come from the dealer, so nothing will be missing. This isn't some tun of the mill repair shop. They do warranty work and are able to accept both manufacturer and aftermarket warranties. They work they will be doing is replacing the timing belt and tension belt. I don't remember if they included the water pump in that price, but they aren't very expensive so adding that to the list isn't a big deal. Still think you know someone who can beat that price?

Drilled/ Slotted rotors...any good?

Drilled/ Slotted rotors...any good?

Re: Drilled/ Slotted rotors...any good? (Big Tone)

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