DREADED p1140/p1145 CEL's. How do I figure out what I need to buy?

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SteveTheTech
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That's not going to fix a HARD FAULT that means that the incident is occuring at the moment clearing is commanded if that is the case you will have no luck disconnecting anything andhaving it reset. You will need to fix the problem then try to clear it.



longhornsqx4
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Well yeah Im not worried about not being able to clear it, just syaing that I cant.

And I need help on how to fix the problem, am I simply buying that little sensor for the left and right side (I beleieve its the same part#, even for 2001 motors, but cant confimr the correct part#)

Or is it my solenoids etc like was talked about in previous threads I searched

Thanks

fixer
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the left sensor in the pic is the correct int valve sensor, the ritght sensor in the pic is not. The correct sensor you are looking for is on top poining up with a connector pointing sideways, usually the ecm grounding wires are in the way of removing it. I have had a lot of problems with "vtc" sensors. usually we recommend both sensors if a veh comes in with a dtc for one side. sometimes low eng oil can cause int valve timing codes but not in your case.

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bullittandy
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longhornsqx4 wrote:I dont really have a camera that could take that quality of a picture

I really do need some help here, I cleaned the sensor connectors very well, and the codes still cannot be erased.

Thanks
This most likely is sludge build up clogging the oil passages in the front cover. If the electrical circuit has both power and ground and the signal wire is verified as not having a short or is open (although highly unlikely given that is appears on both banks). They do share the same power and ground (both could have been compromised while you were installing things). If you are under the hood again take a picture of the underside of the oil cap and the dipstick BEFORE YOU WIPE IT and once while clean.

An experienced tech told you what the problem likely is and what to do so that he could help you diagnose the problem-what else do you want? DO WHAT HE SAYS!


longhornsqx4
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Well like I said, I cant get a quality pic of the oil. But I guarantee its fresh, I just changed it, and checked the level, all well within spec.

As of right now, my only option is to just change both sensors, but thats expensive, and I dont have disposable money, so Id like to know it isnt some other solenoid or something causing the problem.

ANy help appreciated.

qship96
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qship96 wrote:Generally when one doesnt understand the complete problem or fix, one seeks the help of a trained professional. Why not pay the 1 hour diagnostic fee at dealer for proper analysis, then order parts and complete the repair yourself if you are looking at taking the economy route?

guessing gets expensive real quick.
Read the above advice over and over til it sinks in. You would have figured out your problem a long time ago, and probobly save money too.


longhornsqx4
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Well call me stupid if you want, but I dont understand, I clarified the oil assumption. ANd like he said its both of my sensors. But I dont understand what needs to be fixed or how to diagnose, nor can I find a proper part#

qship96
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qship96 wrote:Generally when one doesnt understand the complete problem or fix, one seeks the help of a trained professional. Why not pay the 1 hour diagnostic fee at dealer for proper analysis, then order parts and complete the repair yourself if you are looking at taking the economy route?

guessing gets expensive real quick.
Read it one more time. Everything you need to know is included in the above statement. By following the above advice, you will know exactly what is wrong,what it takes to fix it, and what parts are needed.your way has left you without an operating car for over 10 days at least so far with no relief in sight---stop making it harder than it needs to be!!!!

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SteveTheTech
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Check your oil.

When is the last time it was changed?

Replacing things blindly is just blowing money.

Check you oil.

90% of the times these codes set when the engine is already damaged from a lack of maintenance, or on it's last leg from running like crap for a while. Seriously don't buy anything other than 5qts of good oil and a filter, you might want to take it to a Nissan dealer and get it looked at as I suspect there are other maintenance items that require attention.

Change the damn oil.

longhornsqx4
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qship96 wrote:
Read it one more time. Everything you need to know is included in the above statement. By following the above advice, you will know exactly what is wrong,what it takes to fix it, and what parts are needed.your way has left you without an operating car for over 10 days at least so far with no relief in sight---stop making it harder than it needs to be!!!!
No, I dont get it. And my car still runs just fine, idles a little lumpy and low but runs just fine itself. Id like to fix the codes though.

Stevethetech, I checked my oil less than 5 minutes ago, I changed it less than 500miles ago, with quality fluids and a fram filter, oil level is fine, oil colour is fine.

Maintenance is bein taken care of, in the last 2 weeks I have-changed fuel filter-flushed ps fluid-flushed transmission fluid-changed spark plugs-new air filter-both serpentine belts changed-new front brakes

I am waiting on a #1 cylinder coil from nissan as mine came apart from bein brittle when I was pulling it out of the sparkplug hole

Apprecaite any help

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Infinitiguy19
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FOUND THE PROBLEM: The Fram oil filter, Fram filters are made of cardboard and are known for clogging oil passages and strainers.

longhornsqx4
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Are you serious? Thats new to me. I know it didnt cause it though, Ive had the codes since I bought the car... I just happened to buy a fram because thats the only brand my local place had in stock for my car.... I guess I should change it out though eh? hmmmmmmm, hope walmarts open late

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Infinitiguy19
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Well almost anything but Fram is good even the Supertech Walmart brand is OK.

Did you buy from a private sale or dealer?

Why did you bay a car with codes on it unless the seller would agree to lower the price or fix the problem?

longhornsqx4
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Yeah it was a private sale, and the idiot pulled the SES light, had about 5 codes when I bought it. I got it for dirt cheap so Im really not to upset.

I will be changing the filter with a new oem one today (only other option I have in this town other than fram, $$$$)

I'll have to order a bunch offline or something for nexttimes

Would love to get rid of these cel's

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bullittandy
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longhornsqx4 wrote:Well call me stupid if you want, but I dont understand, I clarified the oil assumption. ANd like he said its both of my sensors. But I dont understand what needs to be fixed or how to diagnose, nor can I find a proper part#
You're going to cause me to have a stroke. The likely reason, according to a certified tech, is that the oil passages are clogged cuasing both of these sensors to fail.

You have three choices, take it to someone, replace the sensors, clear the oil passages (assuming they are).


longhornsqx4
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Well I brought the car to a general mechanic today, just to take a look, and he said he honestly didnt know, he said the sensors tested just fine @ the pins.

I also changed my oil today, new filter and such. Tried to clear the code, was right there again.

And Im "fairly" certain I need to replace both sensors, but I dont really know.... do i? It was also mentionned in another thread by NISTECH that sometimes it is the SOLENOID and not the sensor itself, so by fixing the sensor I wouldnt be doing anything at all.

Just trying to narrow it down, without spending my very tight money (alone and in college) on expensive infinity parts that may not even need replacing.

Thanks again

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SteveTheTech
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Here is the link for the Pathfinder ESM Diagnosis for your P1140 starts on page EC-484. You will need to read through this.

We do not have the ability to tell you exactly what is wrong with your specific car in your specific instance. Performing a "shotgun diagnosis" would be the worse way to save money on this repair. I feel for your situation, but you have to understand there is only so many things we can do for you, this is not the easiest of things to diagnose. We have ruled out many of the easy things (oil, and maintenance items) this leaves more advanced testing.



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