Dragy times and Weights and Funky Throttles

[ken in az]

Hey everyone, did some testing last night with my new Dragy. If you havent heard of this little toy/tool you should definitely check it out. Using a 10hz GPS signal you get crazy accurate performance data like 1/4 mi and 0-60 times

So here's some pics of the fun...

First off, I figured I'd weigh the Bertha - 4300lbs with 55% Front 45% Rear Weight Distribution with an empty tank and me in it. I'm a rather large guy at 300lbs and just after I weighed the car I added 16 gal of fuel, so total race weight, 4400lbs. 4100lbs without me in it.



Interesting Data log here. This launch was a full, 100% foot to the floor no lift launch, and you can see the throttle map does some weird funky stuff up till 32mph. Also the throttle never hits 100%. Most I get is 89% open. Would be nice to tune this out and open them blades 100%.



Next is my run. You can see the time is 13.56 sec @ 105mph 1/4 mi with a 2.2 60ft time (this is lousy!) A good 60ft time for a big girl like this is around 1.8 - 1.7sec. Thats a huge amount on the back end of the track.

Also you can see the Dragy tracks the Elevation change on the run too to make sure you aren't on a down-slope as an advantage. if anything, mine is a slight up-slope.

It also tracks the Density Altitude, otherwise known as DA. DA is the density of the air. The lower the Density Altitude the more HP you'll make. Mine was about 3800ft DA. See Motor Trends article on Testing accelleration and correcting for DA here https://www.motortrend.com/news/motor-trend-testing/

BTW, the 0-60mph time was 5.1sec



My DA is below...DA correction = 12.9sec @ 110mph 1/4 mi




And here it is, the Dragy...Little Box, Big Power. I'll be using this little guy along with Dyno Numbers to track the Horsepower per Mod.

[DFW2011M56S]

What was your oil temp when it did that? Thats the same lag I was talking about under 30 mph when my oil temp was over 210F. With good traction amd traction control off mine never did that as long as the oil was under 210F.

[ken in az]

189° at the start of the run. 198° at the end.

I'm going to remove the brake lamp fuse to fully disable the nannys and see if that still happens. If I had to guess, it will still be there because it is the logic built into the throttle plate maps.

Tuning may be the only way to get rid of it.

[DFW2011M56S]

189° at the start of the run. 198° at the end.

I'm going to remove the brake lamp fuse to fully disable the nannys and see if that still happens. If I had to guess, it will still be there because it is the logic built into the throttle plate maps.

Tuning may be the only way to get rid of it.

I always disabled the nannies by holding the VDC switch until the light turned off. That puts the car in "dyno" mode. If I remember correctly the light comes on, you keep holding the button, the light flashes and goes off.

Another way to permenately disable the nannies is to unplug the connector from the yaw rate sensor under the console. This is what the 350/370Z drift guys do. It really allows you to get crazy. You can drift corners easily without the VDC activating and killing power.

If you disable the brake light fuse you will have to manually overide the shifter to put the car into gear. I had a toggle switch to overide the PCM brake switch input so that I could power brake without the PCM cutting power.

[DFW2011M56S]

With the switch off cutting brake signal from the ECU, I could launch on 295 wide drag radials at about 2,500-2,800 rpm against the converter without the computer cutting power. I don't think you can get to 1,500 rpm with the brake input in place to the ECU. Its not because the converter is that tight its because the ECU cuts power.

Look up Titan Burnout Mod.

My crew cab Titan cut numerous 2.00 and even 1.98s 60' times. My M56S had several high 1.78 and plenty of 1.80s 60' times. My best run ever was a 12.2 @ 112 on a 1.79s 60' in about 1,400 DA.

[Ilya]

Didn't know that holding VDC till it flashes was a thing...I'm goin to have a LOT more fun this upcoming winter lol.

[DFW2011M56S]

Just made a short little clip of the process on my 2014 6spd manual Sentra. Apparantly it is still in the software as of 2014 year model. That was a new model for 13.

https://youtu.be/0x_vJdMLmtQ

[ken in az]

I have done this in my M56 but it didn't seem like it did anything.

I'll try again with the HP Tuners software logging data.

[DFW2011M56S]

I have done this in my M56 but it didn't seem like it did anything.

I'll try again with the HP Tuners software logging data.

I never really disabled it often in my 2011. When it was disabled it was hard to keep the car in a straight line in cooler weather. It would always try to kick the rear end around to the right and it was not a subtle kickout either. It wanted to swap ends and swap ends badly. I always ended up lifting. If I had been in an open area like an empty parking lot I think the car would have drifted in a circle with only throttle.

I will say though my M56 had a much more aggressive traction control than my 07 G35 Sedan. That car has always blown the tires off in 1st gear if you go WOT even without turning off the traction control.

[DFW2011M56S]

One other thing I forgot to mention. These cars and trucks learn how much throttle they can give before the tires break loose and the ECU adapts the throttle to help prevent this. If you perform an ECU reset and go WOT most of the time all hades breaks loose. When I tuned the 07 G35 and reset the ECU it took a few hundred miles for the car to calm down. The first time I went WOT in sport mode with the traction control on it hazed the rear tires all the way through 1st and 2nd gear. Ran 0-60 spinning the tires. The ECU reset that happens from a reflash is not the same as the hard reset you get from the pedal dance either. To reset the fuel trims on these cars also requires that you unplug both MAF sensors and start the car. The check engine light will come on. Shut the car off and plug the sensors back in. Then clear the codes. This will reset the fuel trims back to zero and force the ECU to relearn all the fuel compensation and long term fuel trims. Really helpful after a tuning change or a modification that effects airflow like intake hoses and exhaust mods.

The ECU pedal dance is a must if you put a pair of drag radials on these cars and run down the track.

[ken in az]

I have unplugged both MAFs, did it when I made my custom intake pipes. That was just a few trips before I did these runs with the dragy. That's the good thing about the hp tuners software, I can clear codes with it.

I seem to remember when I had my old M45, the throttle delay was baked into the software. Meaning, no matter what I did, unplug the brake switch to disable VDC, it still had the throttle delay.

Sounds like I have a few things to test.

[DFW2011M56S]

I have unplugged both MAFs, did it when I made my custom intake pipes. That was just a few trips before I did these runs with the dragy. That's the good thing about the hp tuners software, I can clear codes with it.

I seem to remember when I had my old M45, the throttle delay was baked into the software. Meaning, no matter what I did, unplug the brake switch to disable VDC, it still had the throttle delay.

Sounds like I have a few things to test.

Finished my new intake setup on my 07 G35 on thursday. Reset the fuel trims. Ended up having to add a little fuel to the MAF table to get the fuel trims off +15. Cleared the trims again and have been driving around normally for a couple days. Went WOT on it this evening. That little 3.5HR pulls like a freight train. That car feels every bit as quick to 100 mph as my M56S was. It actually kicked the rear end around going into 3rd at about 65 mph. It was only about 1/2 second and 4 mph slower last time I had it at the track and that was with stock air boxes. Ran a 12.8 @ 108. New intake has larger 2.75" MAF housings and is 2.7" all the way from the filter through the throttle bodies. My new CAI is a set of filters and heatshields from a $124 Amazon intake I have had laying around for a while. A pair of 2.75" MAF housings that are 6" long. A pair of HPS silicone post maf hoses. I used hose clamps to clamp the MAF housings to the bracket that secured the horrible metal pipes the intake came with that were the stock ~2.25" ID at the MAF. Looks clean and functions extremely well.

[ken in az]

Yeah, i did all the aforementioned things. Cleared fuel trims, held the VDC button until it went of (which made no difference from zero), ran it when it was cooler outside and the oil temps just got to 180°

No difference in 1/4 mi time

[DFW2011M56S]

Yeah, i did all the aforementioned things. Cleared fuel trims, held the VDC button until it went of (which made no difference from zero), ran it when it was cooler outside and the oil temps just got to 180°

No difference in 1/4 mi time

Have you messed with the throttle mapping at all Ken?

[Malbec 56 Beast]

I'm Greek and this is all Greek to me
Any videos of you all doing these procedures to the M56?

That would be great to watch being done with a run on the track. You all are doing some real special things with these cars.
Post some vids if you have anything to share
Id appreciate it as I'm sure others would also.

Stay safe
Andy

[DFW2011M56S]

Hard for me to post M56S specific stuff in video form now since I no longer have the M56S.

I am still playing with an Infiniti sedan though. Its just a high mileage payed for G35.

This is the air intake setup I just created for it. Woke it up even more. Car has headers, high flow cats, full 2.5" dual exhaust with a X-pipe and 4 magnaflow mufflers, underdrive crank pulley and Uprev.

[DFW2011M56S]

From the front cats back my exhaust system could be easily duplicated under a M56. With the exception of the 2 rear mufflers my M56S had a carbon copy of the exhaust that is now under my G35. My M56S only had the magnaflow mufflers in the center of the car and had straight pipes to the OEM tips at the rear. Even with headers and high flow race cats the G35 cruises much quieter than the M56 did with the added pair of mufflers in the back. Cruising 70 mph on flat land you don't even really hear the engine. Stomp it to the floor and it screams. This exhaust has a much deeper tone and none of that real raspy sound you hear on most 350z or 370z performance exhaust based stuff.

The factory exhaust after the OEM manifold cats choke the life out of the 5.6L. Dual 2.5 is not too big for a 5.6L. In fact my 3.5L gained power and response across the whole RPM range with dual 2.5. I was actually hoping it would give up a little torque down low to make the car easier to launch. Seemed to do the opposite. It is much more willing to spin the tires now even at fairly light throttle.

If you want the M56 to run you have to let it breathe through something bigger than the OEM 3.5L exhaust they stuck behind it. I say that because the M56 exhaust is virtually identical to the factory 3.5HR G35 exhaust in every way and dimension.

[ken in az]

I don't have any tuning software yet so that's a negative on the throttle mapping changes. I'm hoping I get a good tuner who knows what they are doing to try and get full throttle and get rid of the off the line weirdness that it has stock.

[justjuiceit]

My crew cab Titan cut numerous 2.00 and even 1.98s 60' times. My M56S had several high 1.78 and plenty of 1.80s 60' times. My best run ever was a 12.2 @ 112 on a 1.79s 60' in about 1,400 DA.

What tires and sizes were you using specifically for your M56S? Do you have a LSD?