Downpipe, is this guy trying to rip me off?

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drifts14x
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Hey there, I get my manifold back from the Shop today( JGS Stage 1 Manifold with Custom Flange being made to fit 1988 Mazda RX-7 Turbine). If you are familiar with this turbo, you know that it requires a flange to attach the downpipe to the turbo, and while the guy that welded my manifold, made my flange and clocked my turbo only charged $200, he told me that because of the turbo design it would cost $200 more to make a downpipe. Is he just trying to rip me off, or am I seriously going to have to pay $200 for a 3 foot long pipe?


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ossBASHA
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He already DID rip you off with the first $200 for a flange and clocking the turbo.

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fiznat
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^^that's true. you did get ripped on that one.

...but then again $200 for a downpipe might not be THAT bad, if it includes aluminised 3" mandrel bends, a flex section, and flanges at both ends. Not to mention an integrated wastegate dump as well if thats what you want.

Downpipes can be a real pain to make, beleive me. The first bend on mine took me an entire day:



It doesnt look that complicated, but those angles are kinda funky and it took a little while of brainstorming to figure out how it was going to work out.

BTW profesional quality MIG welding on that pipe cost me a total of $20 bucks, the 90 degree aluminised steel mandrel bends were like $20 each (I used 2), a flex section was $60, and that little 2.5" adapter I made was $5. Not to mention flanges at each end which I got used- $15 for both. ....So yeah considering the time that went into mine, $200 for a completed product sounds pretty good. ...If he knows what he's doing.

drifts14x
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FYI, I had the manifold welded together, the flange made, and the turbo clocked for the price I mentioned above. But you guys really think that the downpipe is worth that much? Couldn't I get an exhaust shop to weld some flanges on a flex pipe or something for a lot cheaper?

MarkEmark
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Your downpipe reminds me a lot of mine...weird angles and sizes....



I got mine welded (beautifully I might add) entirely for free....the dad of a best friend of mine works at a welding shop and they did it all free of charge.

Also, flex-sections can be had on ebay for about $20.

I wouldn't say $200 is a rip-off if it'll be a b1tch to make and the welds and everything are top-notch.

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fiznat
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Hahaha look at that mark! You had to do the exact same thing as me! ...Goddamn poor planning on those manifold fabricators...

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sil80drifter
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Go to:http://photos.yahoo.com/ivandabrain2000Click on Turbo Process.

You will see a [proper] RX-7 turbo mount and downpipe setup. It shows how to get the most room, and the furthest distances from the brake lines with that turbo. $400 for the whole setup is ridiculous, your welder doesn't know how to fabricate parts to save his life. We didn't use mandrel bent pipes which would have made it easier (and mroe expensive). We used "jdm bends" They look ugly but they flow just as good if you get it right and don't make any 90 degree angles. If I were to smoothen the weld spots out the DP would look flawless. But I'm not about looks for the looks. This is SS piping and SS flex section. It flows very well, does not come close to any vital lines, and won't rust. That's all I need.

sil80

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Jookmasta
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i got quoted for 150 for the DP at a muffler shop so i dont think 200 would b too far off if it is mandrel bent and SS

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sil80drifter
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Customizing the manifold, clocking the turbo (oh so hard), AND making the DP should cost $200. Not $200 and then another $200.

sil80

drifts14x
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You see, I was thinking the same thing as you sil regarding the cost of the whole job, but in Daytona Beach, there are almost no decent metalworkers. The DP this guy was going to make is going to be Aluminum, with mandrel bends, but I still think that 200 is way too much, I told him I'd settle for 100, but he wont, so I guess I have to get it done somewhere else.

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fiznat
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I wouldnt use straight aluminum on a downpipe, that thing gets way too hot-- not to mention aluminum mandrel bends cost twice as much as steel, and tig welding is also much more expensive than mig. Some form of steel pipe would be much better.

Your "metalworker" should know this...

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sil80drifter
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O M G.If there is anyone you cannot trust it is someone who wants to fabricate an ALUMINUM DP. What was your fabricator smoking? Does he know the melting temp of aluminum? Does he know that DPs get as hot as 1200 degrees and over? Is he mildly retarded? Fiznat is absolutely right, one CANNOT make an aluminum DP or header, even for NA applications. It'll corrode away in weeks if not minutes. Good lord. Sorry I'm gettign worked up over here.Did he maybe mean anodized/aluminized? Cuz that's a coating you can put on a steel pipe so it doesn't rust. Unfortunately with the temperaturs of a downpipe, unles it's Stainless Steel or titanium, or SPECIALLY heatcoated mild steel, any other paint/coating will disappear after a few weeks of boosting.Make sure you find out eactly what the hell your welding guy was talking about. And yesm, maybe it costs mroe where you live. But do not let that keep you from pickign a guyw ho actually knows what he's doing.

sil80

DRIFTEADOR
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Jookmasta wrote:i got quoted for 150 for the DP at a muffler shop so i dont think 200 would b too far off if it is mandrel bent and SS
can muffler shops even bend 3" piping? last time i tried to get one done at a muffler shop the biggest they could do was 2.5" and that was cruch bent, not mandrel.

I guess you can buy your own bends and have them welded at a muffler shop for cheap but if you want them tig welded, which i assume thats what he uses since he can weld aluminum, it'll cost. local "performance shops" charge about $300 for downpipes here in dallas and people pay it.

btw, aluminum isnt fit for a dp as previously stated, but not because of corrosion, aluminum doesn't rust

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Toahk
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I dont know any muffler shops that have mandrel benders, those things are expensive as hell. Ive been to a few shops and they dont want to hassle with cutting and rewelding with mandrel bends, lazy bastards. I just dont have the tools to do exhaust work right now or I would totally do it myself.

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Jookmasta
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well the shop that would do mine does by chance have a 3" mandrel bender. yes it is a rare commodity but they were also the people that did the jig for BRM's exhaust so yes they have the machine. i actually got a chance to look at it and it literally takes up about 1 and a half of an engine bay. i think they said the machine had costs around 40 g's.

anyway, case in point, get the mandrel bent downpipe if u can in STEEL. whether it be mild or aluminized or stainless, it will definitely work better than an alumnium one and it should be cheaper.

j-z
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if you need a mandrel bent pipe and are ever in my area, i have a 3'' aluminzed steel dynomax U bend. you can come pick it up for $20. also, someone said that you need a special coating on a mild steel manifold or dp or else it will disappear... cooking grill paint in a rattle can works fantastic and last for a very long time. i used it on my mani and dp that was on my lude and it looked the same as the day i sprayed it all the way up until 10 months after i sold her the paint can be found at your local home depot.

DRIFTEADOR
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dont you have to bake high temp paint at something between 300-400 degrees for it to actually work?


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