Downpipe Fabrication-Finally complete (pics).

[MarkEmark]

Well, after quite a bit of headaches, my new downpipe/straight pipe replacing the cat is finally ready to be installed.

It's currently drying right now because I painted it with some hi-temp 1200 deg. F engine paint with ceramic--I'm curious to see how it'll hold up because I was unable to cure it using the oven method (too big) or able to put it on the car soon after painting to run the car to cure the paint (still waiting for the roads/my icy, steep driveway to cooperate).

It's certainly not professional, but it beats my other setup and looks a lot cleaner-100% mandrel bent, stainless steel welds, true 2.5" the whole way back. I also installed a flex-pipe to prevent engine vibration from rattling loose the bolts that attach the downpipe to the turbo outlet (which I had an issue with before). With the flex pipe, it'll be able to expand/contract as the engine warms up/cools down and also allowed for some flexibility with my very amateur fabrication skills.

All of the piping was cut/lined up by me to ensure everything would fit perfectly--which is why there were some headaches. Then I had the pipes lined up with magic marker to show how I wanted them to be merged and had my friend's dad's friend weld them up for me--and he did it all for free. The flanges were purchased from NAPA, if anyone is wondering.

Anyway, I'm pretty excited that everything's done and it lines up perfectly--now I just need to find some gaskets to fit the flanges or make some up myself.

Here's some pics of the new exhaust; the last pics are of the old exhaust. Hey, at least it looks better. When I take my car out I'll finally see whether or not my revised exhaust will allow me to boost a full 10 psi to 6k rpm.

Enjoy.

http://24.59.109.135/pichost/pic//125-2547_IMG.JPG

http://24.59.109.135/pichost/pic//125-2559_IMG.JPG

Here's a pic of the weld quality, which is just as good as the welds on my tanabe stainless steel cat-back exhaust:

http://24.59.109.135/pichost/pic//125-2557_IMG.JPG

Here's a pic of the old downpipe's welds (left of pic) vs the new downpipe's welds (right of pic).

http://24.59.109.135/pichost/p...e.jpg

Here's a pic of the downpipe with the straight pipe/bracket bolted up (the straight pipe replaces my catco catalytic converter).

http://24.59.109.135/pichost/pic//125-2561_IMG.JPG

Here's a pic of the hideous old downpipe combo:

http://www.eniety.com/pichost/pic/123-2311_IMG.JPG

And...

http://www.eniety.com/pichost/pic/123-2312_IMG.JPG

Later guys!

[TrunkMonkey]

that thing looks sweeeeeet!

-demetrius

[TurboKA37]

wow, that looks great!

[SloS13]

damn dude. thats awesome

[Drift Machine]

Yeah thats nice.

[MarkEmark]

It was all worth it just for those responses, especially from demetrius

[offtheline]

That looks great man. Im interested to see whether it solves your probs.

[WDRacing]

Lookin good man...looks like some quality welds.

WD

[AceInhole]

much improvement :p

wait till you see my next setup though actually, when do i get to see your setup in person?

[woodonastick]

hardcore! welding the O2 sensor in it. very nice

[andrave]

wow, the old one looks like I made it, and the second one looks like an aftermarket one. If HKS made one for our cars they could do no finer.looks great.

[fiznat]

I want one!

[j-z]

damn i wish i had a TIG and knew how to use it. looks good mark. your old one didnt look too bad. the welds sucked nuts but the bends were pretty smooth.

[MarkEmark]

Thanks guys

Ace--we have to meet up sometime this spring when I'll have my winter projects done and you'll have yours done. I hate this winter weather and its effects on the roads right now though.

Here's a question for you guys:

There's 2 heat shields on the underbody of my car, one for the first catalytic converter which no longer exists, and one for the second catalytic converter, which never existed. The way my current downpipe bends, it doesnt even come close to the first heat shield; it's at least 2.5" from every part of it, and the second straight pipe where the dummy cat on the s14 used to be can't possibly get that hot to warrant a heat shield.

Do you guys think I could ditch these heat shields, or at least the first oe? I'm always looking to save some weight...

Later!

[andrave]

I ditched all my heat shields with I put on my cat back.I don't have a cat though.I've read that the cat can get very hot and it makes a noticeable difference in the cabin...but I didn't notice a difference, if anything I was glad to be rid of the way mine clanged around.

[MarkEmark]

I ditched all my heat shields with I put on my cat back.I don't have a cat though.I've read that the cat can get very hot and it makes a noticeable difference in the cabin...but I didn't notice a difference, if anything I was glad to be rid of the way mine clanged around.

I'll try the car without them unless the cabin starts getting too hot or I think that the heat could be damaging the underside of my car. In any case, the extra heat will be welcome in these frigid winter days...

[huguetpj]

I'm sure you won't have an issue without the cats heat shields... but try and either wrap or coat the downpipe... that gets VERY hot and it will make a diff inside the cabin

[BoostFab]

let's see some pics with the whole exhaust on the car

[MarkEmark]

I just took the beast out. I was surprised how low to the ground the thing is--I guess I got used to the idea of it being up on jackstands

She looked sooo pretty against the white snow--and just to get down/up my driveway I had to spend like an hour breaking apart like 3" thick ice on my driveway.

I forgot how much I love driving that thing and how bloody fast it is-rekindled my love for a sports car. It was my first drive with the project silvia tension rods/nismo power brace and wow--the front end is a LOT stiffer--feels like you can push it a lot harder, and the steering is QUITE A BIT firmer--feels very very nice.

So the question is--does it have a full 10 psi up to 6k rpm?

And the answer, unfortunately, is no. But it's not nearly as bad as it used to be--it used to go from like 9/10 at 5k rpm to 6psi at 6k rpm. When I had just the downpipe on it stayed at 10 psi up to 6k rpm. With the new downpipes/straightpipe/rest of the exhaust/muffler all connected, it goes from 10 psi at 5k rpm to around 8.5 psi at 6k rpm--Not bad, and 2.5 psi higher than when i had the old downpipe/cat. And wow--I can say goodbye to traction in first/second gear, even with a full tank of gas--get's real squirrely in second gear. But, the boost was kinda all over the place, which I know has something to do with the fact that it's 13 degrees out here. In fifth gear it wouldn't boost as high as it would in 4th/third, and in 2nd gear it spiked to 11 at W0T.

I think it's time for a non-homemade boost controller, but I really don't have the money for a $300 digital greddy profec-b boost controller. Anyone know of a GOOD manual boost controller that I could try out that's less than $150? JWT sells one that looks really nice--it has a ceramic ball in it to bleed the pressurized air at a more precise rate. What about the Turbo xs ones?

Also, the ceramic enamel I coated my downpipe with SUCKS. Seems like a royal waste of time--it no longer looks as beautiful as it did in pics . From the turbo all the way down to where the exhaust starts running straight it's peeling/bubbling-and I did not take it out on that hard of a run, and was only out for like 15-20 minutes. The paint's perfect on the straight pipe/rest of the exhaust. But yeah, I thought 1200 degree paint would do a little bit better than that.

I guess I'll eventually suck it up and bring it to a place to have both my turbo manifold/downpipe coated with a TRUE ceramic coating.

And when I got back and opened up the hood I discovered a pretty large leak in my alc injection system, and I have no idea where it's coming from

Nor do I have time to check it out--I have to study for mid-term exams this weekend. I hope I'll have it sorted out when my JWT ECU comes.

Later

EDIT--I completely forgot to screw in the second o2 sensor in the exhaust system--so there was just an open hole there, and the 02 sensor wasn't connected. Maybe that made it run a bit differently, although not much...

[vadem]

Were Did you get the bends, And if you dont mind me asking how much? Thants a hot setup.

[Nathan]

I've heard nothing but good about the Joe P MBC, and it's only around 40 bucks too. I think it's what I'm going to try I'm glad your new downpipe is working better for you!

[JJ240]

I agree....Joe P MBC is the best MBC your money can buy. And youre not even talking about alot of money either! Ive installed 2 , and one holds within .01 bar of the desired boost. The reading is off a VAFC w/MAP sensor so I know its correct. Ive never once seen it spike in daily driving or racing conditions.

[MarkEmark]

Were Did you get the bends, And if you dont mind me asking how much? Thants a hot setup.

Bends were purchased from JCWhitney.com--cost me $30 for two 90 degree mandrel 2.5" bends; flanges were purchased from Napa at ~$6 a pop, turbo flange was purchased from JGStools for $17, flex pipe was $20--Welding was all free

All in all, cost me around $100 for everything--but as you can see it wasnt JUST the downpipe--it was the whole first half of the exhaust. It is a hot setup--literally and figuratively. I just wish that paint held up. Oh well--its not like it functions any differently w/peeling paint.

Joe P MBC-Here i come! Are there different varieties (ie, which one is best?). Where can I get 'em?

EDIT--Just went on their website--for $45 shipped for the newest version, I can't go wrong...Definitely worth a try

[vuse1]

would you ever consider making some to sell? the quality looks top notch

[MarkEmark]

No, I wouldn't...and for a variety of reasons. First, if there's one thing I hate when working on cars, it's tampering with the exhaust. I just really don't like doing it at all. Second, I was very fortunate to have this welder do all the work for me, but I never even said a word to the guy or even met him for that matter. His day-job is not a fabricator for car stuff; he welds pieces of million-dollar machinery together for a living. Plus, every KA-T setup is marginally, if not significantly different. So I'd never be able to make pipes for anything unless it was the IDENTICAL setup to mine. Which is why the KA-T aftermarket is so lacking-every kit is different, unfortunately.

Sorry--Just try to find a good welder when you go about doing it

[WAbernethy]

Also, the ceramic enamel I coated my downpipe with SUCKS. Seems like a royal waste of time--it no longer looks as beautiful as it did in pics . From the turbo all the way down to where the exhaust starts running straight it's peeling/bubbling-and I did not take it out on that hard of a run, and was only out for like 15-20 minutes. The paint's perfect on the straight pipe/rest of the exhaust. But yeah, I thought 1200 degree paint would do a little bit better than that.

That crap only works if you bake it in the oven at 450 or something for a couple of hours. Stinks up the whole house though. Your new DP is sweet. You have inspired me to fix my ghetto rigged mess.

[MarkEmark]

As you could see, the downpipe is one piece and is far too big to fit in a standard oven--and I don't have a walk in one, do you?

The back of the can said the oven was for MAXIMUM heat protection--it said that the paint will cure itself during normal operation on the car. And it did not do it.

When I have $120 or so burning a hole in my pocket/when I get fed-up with the peeling enamel, I'm going to take it to get ceramic coated inside and out at a place near me called High Performance Coatings--it's all they do.