Downpipe bolt is missing again.........What to use

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Florida240sx
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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Electrical tape is still working


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DammitBobby
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Well I ordered transmission mount and some new studs and nuts. I was told that I should have a bracket welded to my downpipe and bolted to the transmission and this would help a lot with my problem. I think this is a real common problem with everybody. I will keep you posted if this doesn`t work I am getting out the electrical tape.

Florida240sx
Posts: 11114
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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Try electrical tape now. I have a top mount turbo, goes to downpipe, goes to mr sr downpipe with flex section, and then goes all the way back to my tail with only exhaust hangers holding it, no brackets anywhere.

NateDogg
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 2:20 pm

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I had a bracket from the dowpipe to transmission and that created a lot of vibration. I like my car to sound and feel like stock around town.

duncan351
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Ever since I used complete SS bolts on my turbo, d-pipe & wastegate I no longer have that problem. Don't even have to tighten them anymore. Its like factory

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DammitBobby
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What is and where do you get SS bolts?

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klattr1
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DammitBobby wrote:What is and where do you get SS bolts?
stainless steel...can get em from Lowes, Home Depot, Fastenal, McMaster, Grainger, etc.

Florida240sx
Posts: 11114
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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SS bolts = SuperSticky bolts I have them with my BRM exhaust.

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C-Kwik
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Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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DammitBobby wrote:I found this on saab site. Mate the downpipe to the turbo and fit new nuts. These should be copper, self-locking nuts as supplied by Saab (the original nuts might not look like copper, but they turn black with seconds of running the engine). They have a crimp at the top of the nut. Steel nuts are not suitable, as they will quickly loosen due to the intense thermal cycling, even if spring washers are fitted.Torque the nuts as near as possible to 25Nm (18lbft).

I think these will work?

http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=FST
They have steel versions of these nuts as well. The Nissan Exhaust manifold nuts are mechanical locknuts. I used them everywhere I could on the exhaust side and they never came loose.

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C-Kwik
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Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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DammitBobby wrote:Well I ordered transmission mount and some new studs and nuts. I was told that I should have a bracket welded to my downpipe and bolted to the transmission and this would help a lot with my problem. I think this is a real common problem with everybody. I will keep you posted if this doesn`t work I am getting out the electrical tape.
Do not bolt any portion of the exhaust to anything without having some kind of provision for expansion. IIRC, the 240 has an exhaust mount to the transmission using a rubber isolator. perhaps you can reuse that or get something like it. Make sure it's oriented and designed to expand towards the rear of the car. Hard mounting it to the transmission is sending an invitation for cracking to occur somewhere.


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