ok here it is after my oem clutch went out i replaced it with a dealer clutch and that 1 burnt out in a week so i got a aftermarket clutch replaced the slave cylinder and that 1 burnt out in a week the shop said it is not the clutch it is something elese he has seen it on 3 other 240. has this happend to any 1 if so I NEED HELP BAD I HAVE SPENT OVER 1500 ON THIS PROBLEM any help would be a life saver (and a mone save) thanks

can any 1 help??? :help

I cant im basically having the saem prob but it might be because i got a aftermarktet SPEC clutch so far it sucks hard..Try for ACT clutches it should last awhile asK the DSM guy hes knows is stuff on clutches.

How exactly is it burning up your clutch in a week? What all did you replace with the clutch? Pressure plate, clutch disc, throw out bearing? Did you use the dummy tool to align it correctly? I had a bad throwout bearing in mine then replaced the stock clutch with Centerforce Stage II and have not had a bit of problems since. Check your master clutch cylinder to see if its leaking. And then your slave cylinder. When you bleed it, remeber to bleed the portioning valve (bolted to the frame right before the slave cylinder) as that sometimes gets air in it too. I agree, the clutch disc itself is not your problem, its something else. The most complicated part of a clutch job is removing the transmission, everything else is super basic stuff.

JNM240 wrote:How exactly is it burning up your clutch in a week? What all did you replace with the clutch? Pressure plate, clutch disc, throw out bearing? Did you use the dummy tool to align it correctly? I had a bad throwout bearing in mine then replaced the stock clutch with Centerforce Stage II and have not had a bit of problems since. Check your master clutch cylinder to see if its leaking. And then your slave cylinder. When you bleed it, remeber to bleed the portioning valve (bolted to the frame right before the slave cylinder) as that sometimes gets air in it too. I agree, the clutch disc itself is not your problem, its something else. The most complicated part of a clutch job is removing the transmission, everything else is super basic stuff.

the clutch looks fine but dosent work any morei talked to the dealer he said it could be the air in the line's he said on a 240 it could take a hour of bleading to get all the air out all i know is this prob sux thanx for your help and i hope i can find out the prob

Where are you located? I've done my own clutch and I put in a SPEC Stage1 clutch in there. I can help you get the air out if you're in Cali. Are you sure the guy lined up the clutch fork and throw out bearing correctly? First time I did that, it sucked~! I put it in the wrong way and the slave cylinder shot out making it out of place....

this might be a Darwin question..but you are going through the break-in period right?

Well, to get to the bottom of this we need to know more about your car. S13/S14/S15? What does the bell housing look like on the inside? Is there oil and or grease slung on it? Lots of "monkey hair" in it? Totally clean? That tells a lot. Usuming it is air in the hydraulic linkage, you could be looking at a bad master cyylinder seal, bad slave cylinder seal, loose flare fitting(s), an air pocket in the hydraulic dampener. I don't think any of those is your problem though. If any one of those is or was the case than your clutch wouldn't go bad, you would just have trouble disengaging it. This would make it difficult or impossible to get moving from a stading start and mobile gear shifting would be difficult. Check your fittings for leaks. Look for fluid loss in your clutch master cylinder. It might not be a bad idea to remove your hydraulic dampener. It tends to trap air bubbles and that is why 240's are hard to bleed. I think what is wrong is that the installer is getting oil or grease on the friction surfaces of the clutch assembly. OR, you have a bad rear main engine oil seal. Both of those would cause your clutch to actually burn up. Give more feed back.

hope that it is air in the line

if not it sounds like a badly broken in clutch

(edited)

air is very common in 240 hydraulic clutch circuits. try jacking up the front end, take off the clutch master cyl. cap, and put a bottle of brake fluid under the car with a hose running from it to the bleeder. leave the bleeder open just a little. then you let it sit overnight. bleed thouroghly in the morning.

Hey GoofyATX240, I've got the SPEC Clutch in my S13 too~! I've got nothing but praises for it. Maybe the install went differently...dunno, I installed mine on my own and it works great~! Seems the SPEC likes getting abused (hehehehe Domination~!) cause everytime someone tries to burn it: *cough**girl**cough**friend**cough*it grabs MUCH MUCH harder. It gets real stiff when I do go out for racing, and doesnt give me the notion of slipping whatsoever. I'm pretty sure others have horror stories, but I'm also confident that others have praise stories too. Dunno how that goes, but I'm most likely going to try for the ACT clutch on my second 240 (I just gotta keep rubbing that in~! Feels so good to have 2!!!!). I'm going with them purely for experimental purposes. I'll have to decide for myself which clutch is better. I'll be sure to write up on that too~!

-R