Door Ajar Light Constant

[CanuckQx4]

I am still working out the kinks with my new to me 2001.5 Qx4 2wd. Just yesterday I replaced the hatch lock actuator and can finally lock my hatch door with the key fob. All doors lock and unlock properly. I assumed once I fixed that actuator the light would go out, but no dice, still illuminated.

I even tried walking around the car pressing each door sensor and couldnt trick the light into going off so I could tell which pin maybe wasnt being pushed enough or aligned properly, but still no dice.

I have a feeling it may be the hood sensor (Im not sure where that one was, I have 2 plunge style pins in my engine bay) and I could not see one on the hatch, I presume it may be built into the lock?

Any help to get this light out I would appreciate, I am hoping once I get the door ajar light off I can see if the factory alarm works.

Thanks alot

[Towncivilian]

I don't even know where the one on the hatch is exactly, unfortunately. You tried both the glass hatch and the actual rear door, right?

The hood sensor is on the driver's side, looks like a big door switch. I'm pretty sure the door ajar light won't light if the hood is up though.

I believe when door switches fail they are "closed". I had both front switches dead for a year and currently have the passenger front door switch busted and the only thing I notice is the room lamp not lighting up on the door setting.

[CanuckQx4]

Ya Im lost on how the car knows the rear door is closed so I can rule that out

Is the "door" setting switch you speak of on the middle roof light? My car has a tv there that has its own lights. but my front interior lights dont come on automatically when i open the doors either (and I would like them to)

id just love to get this door ajar light off , big eye sore

[Towncivilian]

Yeah, that's the setting I speak of. The map lights aren't tied in to the door switch circuit, I'm sure it could be done without too much trouble though.

I think what you should do is disconnect door switches one by one (incl. the hood switch). They should be seen as "closed" when disconnected. If one turns the light off, you found the culprit. If not, it's either the glass hatch or the rear door itself.

I think the WD21 owners put some washers under the glass hatch striker or something to that effect in order to fix this issue, I don't quite recall.

[CanuckQx4]

By disconnect the door switches you mean to unbolt it from the door and unplug whatever electrical connector is behind it? Its -10 out today, guess Ill clean up the garage and pull her in after work

[Towncivilian]

Yes, exactly. Be careful though, some of the busted door switches I've had to pull out have lost their spring and/or button inside of the door shell upon removal. Really irritating.

[CanuckQx4]

Thanks for the heads up. Got off work before dark today. Im just coming inside to warm up my toes after just pulling each individual switch off of the chassis and disconnecting its wire connector. At first I went around the car and disconnected the switches individually, reconnecting and reinstalling as I went around the car. None turned the light out.

Then I thought, stupid me, what if 2 switches or more is bad, the light would never go out just pulling one at a time. So I re pulled all 4 door switches and the hood switch and disconnected there wire connector.... light still on..

So that I believe leaves me with the source of the door ajar light with the hatch and hatch glass (at this point im under the impression there is 2 switches in the tailgate?)

Then I had another great idea! *sorry I know Im rambling its like im telling a story I dont know how else to tell it lol* I forgot my car has a button on the driver door panel to pop the rear glass, I push it, the switch clicks, but no release of the window.

Maybe that means it thinks its open? I did pull the door panel off quick to verify the connector was connected.

Thats where Im at right now bud, freezing, but slightly in a better position to figure this out..?

[Towncivilian]

I'm still unsure as to what "senses" the rear door / glass hatch as being closed. Maybe disconnect whatever you can find that leads to that area and see if the light goes out?

[CanuckQx4]

Ya Im stumped now to. After work I pulled the rear hatch plastic interior cover and pulled each connector individually off, and the light stayed on, then I just went ahead and disconnected every single connection under that cover, 10 in total. Light still on.

Does anything else cause the dash light to illuminate? If youre rule that a disconnected switch will show closed, I dont get why the light wouldnt go off.

Does your door ajar light go off when just the key switched to one click before starting the car? Or do you have to start it? I forget and keep starting the car after pulling each door switch and these connectors today, since I forget when its supposed to go out!

Appreciate the help town! Really would like to get this one solved instead of pulling the cluster bulb

[Towncivilian]

See EL-311 to check the glass hatch switch.

My door ajar switch does go off with the ignition set to "ON" and all of the doors closed, yes.

[CanuckQx4]

Thanks Town, I didnt get a chance to try this after work as my daughter had basketball practice that turned into bird shopping etc lol. After a quick read though it appears its going to push my electrical knowledge and I will have to do some notes and diagrams for myself before I try and tackle it. Glad my dayjob has a little downtime and I can study

I'll report back thank you again

[CanuckQx4]

So Im a little lost town, I located the smart entrance unit, very tucked under the dash and no fun removing in -15C, managed to get the lower dash and everything out of the way, unbolted
the unit and flipped it down. Exposing 3 big connectors on the unit.



I was looking at the bottom row of each connector, only one connector has 2 rows like in the picture, the others have 3. Going by the picture I was looking at the bottom row, 5th pin from a side, looking for color L/W (blue/white), but it is not there. There is actually no blue white on that connector. There are 2 thick solid blues, but no blue/white..... heres a junk picture I took



the 2 row is the far right connector


So I figured Im buggerred on that test for now, lets move onto test 2 on the page, checking the window switch. I did the test and it passed the continuity check when open/closed. So that switch is good.

So am I possibly not looking at the smart entrance control unit that I pictured? or could my 2001.5 be different than the 2001 manual we are referencing from..

Stumped and frozen.

Because that switch passed the test, and none of my other door/hood switches can de-activate the light, could the smart module be gone bad? My alarm light hasnt worked in a while, and the lights dont flash when I lock it, but I thought that had something to do with a door being open. Maybe just the module?

Anyways i left the dash unassembled for the night incase you ask me to poke around

[Towncivilian]

I'm not sure there is a 2001.5 QX4 model year, I mean there's no FSM for it and I don't recall ever seeing the .5 model year "option" when looking up a 2001 QX4's VIN.

I meant to specify step 2 only, but since you were able to test it and it tested good I guess we've got to figure out step 1.

Are you certain that unit is the SECU? See its location on EL-438. Also see figure A to help pinpoint its location. According to the FSM there are only two plugs of approximately the same size for the SECU: M121 (white), and M122 (black).

[CanuckQx4]

I swear youve told me I have a 2001.5 Qx4 based on my production date before lol, I could be wrong. i found an old thread where a member had both a 2001 and a 2001.5 qx4 manual posted for download but the links were dead

edit: found it, second last post
post3412667.html?hilit=2001.5%20qx4%20download#p3412667

Im not positive my picture is of the secu, but from my recolection it was the only thing in the area, and it makes sence based on el-438.

I also researched this thread need-help-with-headlight-issue-t572735.html and the very last post he shows a pic of his SECU and it looks identical to what I have pictured.

I will hop under the dash after work to verify anything else isnt in the area

[CanuckQx4]

I took a good luck under the dash today, found 3 module looking boxes in total, none with a 2 row connector though, they all have 3 or even 4 rows. And none of them have a blue/white wire in the fifth pin position.

And 10 minutes ago i broke down and bought the 2001.5 downloadable manual from infinitihelp.com, and it is definitely different, but this test is actually the same in the 2001.5 manual, but there are many other differences from what I can tell. I dont get not finding this 2 row connector though.

Anychance i could send you the manual anyhow, maybe I could pm you my username and pass for that site so you could download them, Id love to get the FSM in the nicoclub directory to help fellow members. Money well spent I suppose.

Really want to get this door ajar light out for good though

[Towncivilian]

It's odd that we don't have a 2001.5 QX4 FSM. I would absolutely appreciate a download link so we can get it up, thank you. Once I get the 2001.5 FSM I can do some more digging around to try to figure this mess out.

[Towncivilian]

I think now the easiest way to verify that you really are looking at the SECU is to check the table on EL-828 against your SECU's wiring. EL-831 shows M121 and M122's pinout; both are gray plugs.

Then check for door switch input signal following EL-806 and follow the procedure from then on.

Good luck!

[CanuckQx4]

Ok I will look into that. One thing I noticed different in the 2001.5 manual, was the very first page of the EL section it notes

"MODIFICATION NOTICE:
I Smart entrance control unit has been changed.
I The SMART C/U - PREVIOUS is applicable for the 2WD models up to serial number 201488 and for the 4WD models up to serial number 215603.
I The SMART C/U - NEW is applicable for the 2WD models from serial number 201488 and for the 4WD models from serial number 215603."

My truck is a 2wd with last 6 vin digit 203976

As soon as it stops snowing I'll get back under the dash

[CanuckQx4]

This is what throws me so off so much and makes me doubt my work when using the FSM!!

The procedure on EL-319 says to probe pin 38 of connector M122 and shows a 2 row connector, so I went looking for a 2 row connector with a blue/white in the that spot along the bottom row, because it shows that the connector has only 2 rows.

Then I just checked the EL-831 area you mentionned and it shows connector M122 as a 3 row!

I copy and pasted both pictures on those pages to show the visual difference below



See how I got confused? Does that not throw you off? So the thing I have pictured is indeed the SECU, and I couldnt find the blue/white wire on the bottom row because it is in the MIDDLE row....

Silly FSM cost me a weekend of troubleshooting

[Towncivilian]

It would seem that the FSM uses 'generic' images during the diagnostic procedures (but the pin number is correct). Follow the M122/M123 numbered pinout block.

[CanuckQx4]

EDIT: frick Im lost on this, so cold, must warm my brain up I confused myself with what I wrote.

Not even sure Im looking at the right damn module they all have 28595 on them! and the one that I think it is, has no blue/white wire AT ALL!

[CanuckQx4]

So i find this unit on ebay. Looks exactly as mine, same size white box, same drilled vent holes. But has 2 big connectors, whilemine as seen in my pics above has 3 connectors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-NISSAN-PATHF ... 38&vxp=mtr







Whats going on here??