yeah.. like when i first got the car running and everytime it turned over, it was good idled great.... 10 seconds later, sputtered and then died
everytime
unless i waited in it and reved it lightly itd then stay running.
this was in the winter -30 celcius some days.


now its akways the same mornig drama before it starts
gotta stay in it and pump the gas and watch and wait for the rpms to go under 500 and the vaccuum to drop and then feeed it some shots itd stay coucghing and then a minute in its idling fine lol just dumped raw fuel the whiole time


when i had the intake plenum offf once i had the dirtiest valves on the butterfly ports so i was wondering could this be a contributing cause of s*** rich condition while driving sometimes and always when cold?

-30 celcius?!

Ummmmm.....I think any car would have problems in those temps. -30 celcius is like in Antartica or northern Alaska s***.

-30 Celsius, s*** I'd just leave my car running. Mines the same way, will hardly idle and back fires a lot until warm, I don't mind, it just insures I won't beat on it till its warm

Tuned for injectors or MAF at all?

nope its stock but i realized this could be from worn inlet valves, i know theyre at least caked in gunk anyway.

coolant temperature sensor for ecu could help

I had that sensor fail on me and changed it with brand new one.... then I went to start it after new one went in, exactly the same.... flooding barely ran

traced the wiring and (wiring specialties) harness to find both wires had been shorting to each other from casing split and repaired it
ran it ever since then and no issues besides cold start was worse and code 13 never clears fron ecu

Have you probed the wiring and made sure there isn't another short?

No but I have a multimeter just no understanding of how electrical testing works it's like dyslexia to me
all I've got down for skill is checking voltage lol

Unplug both battery leads
Unplug the ECU
Set the multimeter to resistance or ohms
Unplug the CTS (2 wire plug, not the one wire sensor)
Check for continuity between the two terminals in the CTS plug. There should be no continuity (REALLY high resistance. It will usually read OL (open line)). If there is any continuity, there is another wiring problem somwhere, or the place you fixed, isn't fixed.

illl try this today ...

I have been doing some reading on fuels and the effect they have on timing etc and one things got me wondering...my knock sensor. i have it bypassed with a 1 million ohm resistor, that wouldnt have any thing to do with the startup at all would it? it does not throw codes and never has caused me problems in a year .
I should prolly check compression too...

knock sensor bypass shouldn't affect startup unless you have REALLY low octane fuel.

checkedthe plug for the CTS with battery and ecu disconnected ....showed infinite, so lol..... im not saying i b**** about my car everyday, but i do think about fixing it for cold starts and as of lately, replacing the atari software

btw, ive been having low idle ALL the time, no idea why but could low compresion on one cyl make it idle 600rpm almost putt putt like if on 3 cylinders....i pulled the plug off each coilpack today 1 at a time and only number 4 had no effect on it, just stayed the same ....i think its low for sure,..

Unless that piston was completely shot, that wouldn't do that. You have a bad coil pack or injector on that cylinder.

Float i think my engines dead...idk what happened but not long after i had the idle issue, i changed my oil and alternator,(which was bad) and it was better!

today, on the highway...SMOKED OUT traffic behind me like BAD! only on booost, i em,ptyed my catch can and got to whgere i was going
my cars not enjoyingg being full of oil its been blowing loyts out of the exhaust side, so i thought i was pressurizing my crankcase, re did the pcv line straight to valve cover, and now its still just pouring out of exhaust on boost, until it gets low enough to not register on my dipstick.....

My engines f*** i think......FCK!

how olds the turbo and is it aftermarket? could be the problem

i thought so too.... It's the rebuilt turbi that came with the motor.. I am for the first time ever seeing an oil fouled plug in that cylinder only. downshifts don't feel the same like they used to if yiu know what I mean. it's jerky when cold and driving and very hard to start... Guess I found an answer to my cold start issue and the cause of it

Hmm, a compression test sounds like a good idea right now. Only fouling onee plug isn't good news.

yeah, i am anxious to get that one done. soon too, 'cause im still hoping its NOT all down to being rings..
on the subject of blowby, if my rings were not completly blown, could/would/will valves that are damaged or in very bad shape be able to cause a lot of unwanted blowby '? to the point im putting close to a half litre of oil out of the rocker in a few minutes of driving around town like i normally would. I dunno whats normal and whats not for a motor down on compr., im trying to think of how i did so much damage at one time, it poorly idles sometimes, others not, blow by is just out of control, i empty the can every day and have to add more to it and it was literallly fresh oil i just changed it twice, now it spews out the can like a rotten milkshake...like there is a lot of water getting into the sump (even the dipstick has some water//oil s***), and headgasket certainly isnt blown...if you know what i mean.....its not good lol

not to sound confused here,on the hunt for compression tester today to find out whats what... but i have to keep driving somewhat, what can i do to help the blowby situ...like if even by re-routing my pcv lines to mask it... it might help if i plug the intake tube so there is no draw? or no,, guess i could try it... for now i will put the stock resistor pill back in and see how that works out... lol. poor ca, i feel bad killing her

Damaged valves won't cause blowby issues. Everything you're describing is EXACTLY how my CA behaved when the rings let go. There isn't much you can do in the mean time. DON'T eliminate the catch can. It's the only thing keeping the motor running right now. Once it's gone, the plugs will start to foul instantly and the inside of your intercooler will be so fouled up it will be next to impossible to clean.

Ya..Lol I figured this was my problem.. Damn.. I haven't robbed any banks lately so I was hoping a full rebuild wasn't absolutely necessary just yet.
I really wasn't expecting it (yeah right) to f*** up progressively get worse by the day either lol ... because turbo?

its not too bad with a higher idle and all I can do is try to keep it at 5 psi max and deal with the oil issue... it sucks to see the can full every day and that's if I don't see it in smoke form first but I've only got the catch can hooked up on the exhaust side so what I was thinking about doing to stop feeding the turbo inlet 15w40 is removing that intake hose that creates the draw on the valve cover and instead.... run my breather directly to the where my o2 sensor sensor would go.... to me, it would seem better than having a vacuum draw the oil out of the engine for now but thought I'd ask before I mess with the stock breather route -

I know this is bad, but hey its Alberta where oil comes from the ground and is refined from sand anyway lol all I care about is keeping it in my engine longer of I can

Anyone? the exhaust side rocker breather, routed straight into downpipe going to cause any issues? Does this hose draw any air in when its ran open to atmos?

Or even, sorry if this is annooying but not useless question, could i just run it into the piping before the throttle body, after the intercooler.....will i need a one way valve? if its supposed to get sucked in by the turbo, whats the harm in the ic pipng.?

LakaiOrDie wrote:Anyone? the exhaust side rocker breather, routed straight into downpipe going to cause any issues? Does this hose draw any air in when its ran open to atmos?

Umm, how are you going to run the exhaust side rocker breather into the downpipe? Better yet, why would you want to do that? If your engine is that screwed-up, get another one or rebuild the one you got. Sounds like you're about to make a mess on top of an existing mess

LakaiOrDie wrote:Or even, sorry if this is annooying but not useless question, could i just run it into the piping before the throttle body, after the intercooler.....will i need a one way valve? if its supposed to get sucked in by the turbo, whats the harm in the ic pipng.?

You can, but why would you want to do that? Refer back to my first response, my friend. You have some issues that need to be mechanically corrected.

I know right... it just all comes down to money... I'd have been happy to rebuild or buy another if I could but for now, it remains my daily lol the only thing that's worse than having to keep it under 3-5 psi all the time is when my can gets full and starts making a mess of oil underneath the car and under the hood which is why I thought since I've never had a o2 sensor, it could become the threaded port for my oil to blow into and can just smoke it out without fouling plugs or making a mess
. but I just thought since it's exhaust it may be harmful to have it blown into the top end, would there be consequences doing this it would really be a lot less hassle playing around with oil spread all over underneath the car

The exhaust side valve cover draws air INTO the valve cover whenever it's in vacuum (which is anytime you're not in boost). You can try routing it into the exhaust, post turbo, but you'd have to have some HIGH TEMP, oil tolerant, acid tolerant check valves. Good luck finding anything like that.

I am, just saying, but the can I have at the end of this hose, is vented and when idling it's just puffing exhaust straight up and out of the vent tube, u can see it coming out from under the hood lol so with that being said, I'd be ok if I got a moroso? anything else is going to be bad?

I guess I should have blocked my pcv when venting the other side to the atmosphere shouldn't I lol... I'm not even trying to be this dumb I am still learning haha I'm sorry