*Don't fix it if it ain't broken* but i'm 90% into it.....

[J30_Kidd]

Ok well as the title says, i like the golden rule don't fix what ain't broken, but i'm debating whether to ignore that or not.

I feel like i should just replace the head gasket and valve seals sense i have taken the intake, and valve covers off to replace pretty much all the oil seals (cam, valve covers, crank seal and etc). I got a full gasket kit and it has the head gasket and valve seals with it to. The engine ran fine besides a small idle problem which i believe had to do with a sensor I'm replacing and along with other parts (hoses, water pump, timing belt, idle pulleys, and that darn knock sensor and etc) . So i feel like maybe sense I'm 90% into i should just do the head gaskets and take the time to replace the valve seals as well. Is it really worth it to do that extra work to it if i don't have problems with them at the moment? I know i'll have to drop more into new head bolts and i'm having trouble finding a place to rent out a valve spring compressor for this bloody engine lol. A friend said i shouldn't and that head gaskets or either good or blown, but kinda want extra opinions on the matter. Though i have knowledge of how to do it i don't have enough experience to know how long a head gasket last and not sure if i should go on his advice haha.


Thank You

[GerryO]

I'd leave them alone, unless there is strong evidence of oil in the coolant or water in the oil (BHG indicators and over-heating causes). Valve seals too, unless there's blue smoke at start-ups and a problem passing smog. I had my plenum off to replace all six injectors, the EGR and PCV valves and spark plugs at about 170K miles. Throughly clean the EGR tubes and the IAC/AAC/Air Regulator valves, while you have the plenum off and you should be good to go.

Aluminum heads can corrode/etch due to using old/weak coolant and warp due to overheating, causing head gasket failure. We replaced a BHG on one of my son's MR2 deals, also having the head welded and re-surfaced.

I think the problems started with a leaky water pump, that was addressed by adding water. Pretty soon there was only water/no more coolant with corrosion inhibitors and a corroded aluminum head, causing the head gasket to go. Couldn't drive the car for more than a couple of miles, before hot "coolant" started spewing out of the overflow tank and the temperature gauge was pegged. Rust from the block solidly clogged the heater core too, and the underside of the oil filler cap was always chocolately brown.

Things were great after a lot of coolant system flushing, a new theromstat and water pump, the new head gasket and all with a 50/50 mix of coolant/DI water.

[J30_Kidd]

Thanks for the advice Garry, there is no signs of smoke on start up or oil in the water and etc, when i drained the coolant i swear there was more antifreeze then water and this car has all records kept from the previous owner when she bought it as 60k miles back in January of 2000. most work done at a private garage with a few visits to a infinti shop for light bulbs.... lol So i know the owner never laid a hand on the car, just the garage they took it to. So i guess maybe they used more antifreeze to ensure no rust? idk, i just googled that question and found out theres like a lot of diff antifreezes out there, it's 12am and i'm not about to go look in my owners manual for what type to use so i'll just ask, what type did you use or recommend? What came out was green and yea.... hmm wonder if it was the right one lol.

Also what did you use to Throughly clean the EGR tubes and the IAC/AAC/Air Regulator valves? I'd be guessing some carb or brake cleaner would do the trick? am i right ?


Thanks Garry for your advice and any future advice you feel like giving for free

[GerryO]

After totally removing the EGR tubes from the car, I did use plenty of carb cleaner along with some wire brushing, plus some gentle tapping. I was surprised at how much it took to get them really clean and the size of some of the pieces that eventually came out. I'd use some sort of flexible brush next time. I purchased an inexpensive hand gun cleaning kit and some spare round copper brushes of different sizes to clean the IAC/AAC/Air Regulator valves, and also used MAF/Throttle Body cleaner on it, as there are a few plastic/elastomer parts involved and a few moving parts inside require a bit of lubrication too. I refilled with green (Prestone) anit-freeze, after totally removing/separating the radiator/fan shroud that had collected a lot of leaves and other debris.

[yodawill2000]

That's a good point that most over look.
If you ever take the radiator out hold it up to the sun or a shop light.
You will be amazed at the debris between the fins.
Back flushed it through the fins with the water gun set on shower and a boatload of stuff came out the front side.
Be careful not to use to much pressure as bent fins are as bad as clogged fins.

[SteveTheTech]

Replacing the valve cover gaskets is one things pulling the heads is a completely separate and much more involved process. I would not attempt this unless you have a serious amount of time and free space and a large set of tools. I know I wouldn't ever do this, well maybe on a project but not if I ever needed the car again though.

[J30_Kidd]

Thanks Gerry, Yoda and Steve,

sorry i've taken a while to post back up but working two jobs i don't have much time, I ended up taken a full day off and geez cleaning those parts took a long time so it kinda delayed my progress on this, I will for sure clean out the radiator and i'm installing a electric fan in place of the stock one. i've managed to get the rear and front crank/oilpump seals on as well the cam seals and cam gears on the front, i had a brain fart and put the valve covers on first before realizing i should of put the rear timing cover and cam gears on first lol, so i had to take the covers back of and repeat. ughhhh :eek

I do have a question concerning the intake valve cover, i installed the rubber gasket and applied rtv sealant at the corners where the cams meet the top of the head but upon tighting the Philips headed screws i noticed that rubber gasket was being squished out towards the intake, i looked up on the service manual but it doesn't have any torque specs for the screws, how should i be tighting the cover down? should i also apply a coat of rtv sealant along the rubber molded gasket as well? i've never had this issue with cork gaskets in the past, i'm sure i must be either applying to much pressure or just not doing it right, well any help with this would be appreciated alot!


I've come to find that rebuilding a small block 351 ford was less involved then this has turned out to be lol

[smauerbe]

Hey guys. Gotta 96 I 30. How do I know when the timing chain needs to be replaced? What are the indicators ? Also, does the 96 have a serpentine belt also ?

[1994 infiniti j30 190+]

Thanks Gerry, Yoda and Steve,

sorry i've taken a while to post back up but working two jobs i don't have much time, I ended up taken a full day off and geez cleaning those parts took a long time so it kinda delayed my progress on this, I will for sure clean out the radiator and i'm installing a electric fan in place of the stock one. i've managed to get the rear and front crank/oilpump seals on as well the cam seals and cam gears on the front, i had a brain fart and put the valve covers on first before realizing i should of put the rear timing cover and cam gears on first lol, so i had to take the covers back of and repeat. ughhhh :eek

I do have a question concerning the intake valve cover, i installed the rubber gasket and applied rtv sealant at the corners where the cams meet the top of the head but upon tighting the Philips headed screws i noticed that rubber gasket was being squished out towards the intake, i looked up on the service manual but it doesn't have any torque specs for the screws, how should i be tighting the cover down? should i also apply a coat of rtv sealant along the rubber molded gasket as well? i've never had this issue with cork gaskets in the past, i'm sure i must be either applying to much pressure or just not doing it right, well any help with this would be appreciated alot!


I've come to find that rebuilding a small block 351 ford was less involved then this has turned out to be lol

when i did my valve covers i just made them tight not super man tight just tight. it shouldnt squeez out it should fit in the grove on the cover itself. i only put the rtv on the two ends. and to unsure its dry let it sit for at least 12 hours or more, or set one of those work lamps over it so it gets hot and drys for sure. cause i had my exhaust cover on the drivers side leak a good quart to a quart and a half on the ground and had to pull everything back off and redue it. its was a b****!

[1994 infiniti j30 190+]

Hey guys. Gotta 96 I 30. How do I know when the timing chain needs to be replaced? What are the indicators ? Also, does the 96 have a serpentine belt also ?

do you mean J30 or I30? cause you may be in the wrong forum

[driverdriver]

The Maxima/Infiniti I30/I35 forum is here:

maxima-forum-i30-i35-forum.html