Doing new valve gliders (valve seals)???
Doing new valve gliders (valve seals)???
Does any body know if this is hard todo??I tried to look it up but no info about doing it..LMK if you have anything about it or if you have done it.thanks
Re: (Hijacker)
yea i know all the tools needed
Re: (Hijacker)
ok thanks
my buddy has a sr with no compression in cylinder 3, i think i will buy it from him and build it that way i can have the head off and change everything seems more convenient. thats what im thinking
my buddy has a sr with no compression in cylinder 3, i think i will buy it from him and build it that way i can have the head off and change everything seems more convenient. thats what im thinking
Re: (Greddy323)
Valve guides and valve stem seals are two different things.
I'd suggest taking the head to the machine shop to have them replace the guides and reassemble the head so they can measure all applicable clearances with the right tools. Valve seat angle, interference fits, lash adjuster tolerance, shim clearance, etc. Plus they'll do a "valve job", and make sure the valves and valve seats seal against each other properly so compression isn't compromised.
basically, you don't dismantle a cylinder head to replace the valve guides without the intent of doing anything else. It might be okay the way it is, but it may very well not be. It'd be counter productive to dismantle the head to replace the valve guides without letting a professional verify the fit and condition of the rest of the components.
But anyway, the head HAS to be removed to replace the guides, it's not just "more convenient" with it off, since the guides have to be tapped out from inside the combustion dome. As far as the stem seals are concerned, they have to be replaced any time you remove them anyway.
This is just one page of the manual, to illustrate about half of the measurements that have to be verified. To do this you need a caliper, a couple different kinds of micrometers, and a set of feeler gauges. Probably a couple hundred dollars worth of tools. Not to mention a hydraulic press and a proper work bench bolted to the floor (so nothing moves while performing the work, we're talking about dealing with thousandths of an inch, here.. that's 0.000X" - 0.00XX")
Scared yet?
Modified by Neil at 1:35 PM 9/13/2008
I'd suggest taking the head to the machine shop to have them replace the guides and reassemble the head so they can measure all applicable clearances with the right tools. Valve seat angle, interference fits, lash adjuster tolerance, shim clearance, etc. Plus they'll do a "valve job", and make sure the valves and valve seats seal against each other properly so compression isn't compromised.
basically, you don't dismantle a cylinder head to replace the valve guides without the intent of doing anything else. It might be okay the way it is, but it may very well not be. It'd be counter productive to dismantle the head to replace the valve guides without letting a professional verify the fit and condition of the rest of the components.
But anyway, the head HAS to be removed to replace the guides, it's not just "more convenient" with it off, since the guides have to be tapped out from inside the combustion dome. As far as the stem seals are concerned, they have to be replaced any time you remove them anyway.
This is just one page of the manual, to illustrate about half of the measurements that have to be verified. To do this you need a caliper, a couple different kinds of micrometers, and a set of feeler gauges. Probably a couple hundred dollars worth of tools. Not to mention a hydraulic press and a proper work bench bolted to the floor (so nothing moves while performing the work, we're talking about dealing with thousandths of an inch, here.. that's 0.000X" - 0.00XX")
Scared yet?
Modified by Neil at 1:35 PM 9/13/2008