Dogred's pic

1980-1986 Datsun 720 forums. All 720-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
dogred
Posts: 205
Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 10:15 pm
Car: 1983 D720

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Here is a pic with my new rims. Need to get a close up of the new rims.


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breadbox
Posts: 8549
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Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
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84 720 4x4KC
Location: Va Bch

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I like your badge.

flinterman2000
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Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 5:32 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Wingroad, 85 Datsun 720 Pick Up.

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Yeah man, did not notice it at first. bought it with the truck or had it made.

dogred
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Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 10:15 pm
Car: 1983 D720

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Original badges, on the grill and qauter panels. This truck has been unmolested except for the cancer and dirt. I found it on craiglist for $350 with starting problems. The transmission dust cover was countersinking the starter. Hammered it flat added a new battery, starter and flywheel. Hammered the distributor plate flat and cured a nasty oil leak. One more small leak to fix on the passenger side. passenger side close up of rim

I got some carbon matallic painted rims of the same style for sale if you are in the western wa area.
Modified by dogred at 11:22 PM 7/27/2009

lrayvick
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Joined: Thu Apr 09, 2009 6:27 pm
Car: Datsun 521

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The wheels look like Jackman's - made in El Cajon in the 70s? I have a set on my 521. Good job getting the problems ironed out.

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breadbox
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Awesome, you have the same rear bumper as me. I love that thing. I was going to clean mine up and repaint it but then I decided it looks better busted as s*** and lopsided.


dogred
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Car: 1983 D720

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I am wanting to lower my truck and was wondering if (anyone who has their truck already lowered) has part numbers for shorter shocks for the front and rear. I measured the stock monroe replacements today at work and the fronts are 12 1/2 in, and the rears are 14 1/4 in.

I am guessing that I want a 3" drop that I would want replacement shocks 3'' shorter?

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PEZi
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shocks depend on the method of lowering... in the front if you're just using the torsion bars you don't need new ones... but if you you spindles and blocks you'll just need to search for 'drop shocks'... they come labeled

for example... you search for the drop shocks for a 720... then choose the drop you have ie: a 2" block in the rear will need a 2" drop shock or a 3" spindle in the front needs a 3" drop shock

dogred
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Car: 1983 D720

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Repainted my grill.
Modified by dogred at 9:01 PM 8/2/2009

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PEZi
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haha... i just took out my highbeams as well


dogred
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Tightened down the torso bar bolts and added a cat delete, bumper delete, new muffler and tip.

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jdamion
Posts: 54
Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:54 pm
Car: 1980 Datsun Pickup

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your truck is something we all wish ours resembled. nice man

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jdamion
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Car: 1980 Datsun Pickup

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how much play is on your steering wheel?

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turbojunker
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Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 8:51 pm
Car: 79 510, 81 720, 72 510-RIP

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PEZi720 wrote:shocks depend on the method of lowering... in the front if you're just using the torsion bars you don't need new ones... but if you you spindles and blocks you'll just need to search for 'drop shocks'... they come labeled
Isn't that backward? Loosening the torsion bars removes travel, so you'd need shorter shocks. Spindles move the wheel uo in relation to the lower control arm without reducing the travel.

dogred
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Car: 1983 D720

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jdamion wrote:your truck is something we all wish ours resembled. nice man
Well thanks man.There is about an 10th of a turn of play, not to much.

dogred
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Old pics of my ghetto ram air intake.

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breadbox
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there are easier ways to get air there. But the grill looks great.

I still want those badges when my truck runs I am gonna be on the hunt for a set of those.

dogred
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Car: 1983 D720

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breadbox wrote:there are easier ways to get air there. But the grill looks great.

I still want those badges when my truck runs I am gonna be on the hunt for a set of those.
If you have a better idea please share. That was the simpliest idea I could come up with. I do not want to get air from any lower, lots of rain and unsusoecting puddles around here.

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PEZi
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turbojunker wrote:
Isn't that backward? Loosening the torsion bars removes travel, so you'd need shorter shocks. Spindles move the wheel uo in relation to the lower control arm without reducing the travel.
sorta... all i know is that both the blocks and spindles call for a drop shock


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bracktheron720
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Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:39 pm
Car: 1984 720 with 1980 datsun front end,1972 yamaha cs3

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hey dogred im over on the other side of the state but im back and forth alot you still got the wheels for sale??iv got the same style as Pezi but too wide if you still have let me know whats up!!my truck had a big square cut in the hood when i got it so i slapped a little scoop over it and made a box that i stuck on the end of the air cleaner lined it up with hole and bam ram air baby!!

dogred
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Take your pic carbon mettalic or black.

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bracktheron720
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how much you want for a set??????

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turbojunker
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PEZi720 wrote:sorta... all i know is that both the blocks and spindles call for a drop shock
Thing about the rear is the lower shock mount is on the U bolt plate, not the rear end housing, so a shorter shock is not necessary with blocks. A stiffer shock of the same length may help keep the axle from hitting the frame though.

dogred
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bracktheron720 wrote:how much you want for a set??????
$60

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bracktheron720
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dang thats a good deal!!let me get my sh** together and well have to figure out a way to get together!!

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PEZi
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turbojunker wrote:
Thing about the rear is the lower shock mount is on the U bolt plate, not the rear end housing, so a shorter shock is not necessary with blocks. A stiffer shock of the same length may help keep the axle from hitting the frame though.
hmm... you make a good point

the only thing is that both call for them

i'm not running them though... KYB's all around did me well

dogred
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Car: 1983 D720

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bracktheron720 wrote:dang thats a good deal!!let me get my sh** together and well have to figure out a way to get together!!
I will need to know one week in advance so I can get time off from my busy schedule.

The carbon ones have been bead blasted and there is one can of primer and paint on each rim.

The black ones are painted over the original white, so they have higher resilance to scratches.

I could meet you in Tacoma, but I have not taken this truck on any long hauls since I have owned it.

flinterman2000
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Car: 2000 Nissan Wingroad, 85 Datsun 720 Pick Up.

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turbojunker wrote:Thing about the rear is the lower shock mount is on the U bolt plate, not the rear end housing, so a shorter shock is not necessary with blocks. A stiffer shock of the same length may help keep the axle from hitting the frame though.
The reason for the shorter shock is not to prevent the axle from hitting the frame. Its to prevent the shock from bottoming out and killing the shock. If the travel for the shock is longer the shock, the seal in the shock usually hits the bottom of the shock and damage the seal. Repeated hitting of the bottom will eventually burst or warp the seal and end up with a useless shock. A stiffer shock will only change the way the ride feels but it makes no difference to the travel. But then again this is for those who carry load in their trucks.

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bracktheron720
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dogred wrote:

I will need to know one week in advance so I can get time off from my busy schedule.

The carbon ones have been bead blasted and there is one can of primer and paint on each rim.

The black ones are painted over the original white, so they have higher resilance to scratches.

I could meet you in Tacoma, but I have not taken this truck on any long hauls since I have owned it.
yeah no problem dude my trucks pretty tore up rite now so it will b a while before i would b able to make it there but i will defenetly keep in touch!!

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turbojunker
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Car: 79 510, 81 720, 72 510-RIP

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flinterman2000 wrote:
The reason for the shorter shock is not to prevent the axle from hitting the frame. Its to prevent the shock from bottoming out and killing the shock. If the travel for the shock is longer the shock, the seal in the shock usually hits the bottom of the shock and damage the seal. Repeated hitting of the bottom will eventually burst or warp the seal and end up with a useless shock. A stiffer shock will only change the way the ride feels but it makes no difference to the travel. But then again this is for those who carry load in their trucks.
I understand that. But the lower shock mount is on the U bolt bracket, not the axle housing, so shock length is unaffected. When all you do is move the axle up in relation to the body, the shock travel has not changed. If anything, you get less travel unless you removed the bumpstops completely like I did.


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