Are the battery cable clamps making a good tight connection? Any trouble getting them to tighten when you installed the battery? If it was this symptom alone I'd say check the the clamps and clean up the ground or, your starter has gone bad.damromeo wrote:.....I can hear the ignition relays click when I try to start the car but it goes no further than that.
If the odometer display says LOW BATTERY CHARGE and the brake light is dim it normally means the alternator is not charging properly. This is with the engine running of course.damromeo wrote:.......the hud on my dash says my battery has a low charge even when I put my 1000 CA battery out of my 4x4 pickup in it, it also says there is a transmission malfunction.....
Could it be the heater mixer door shorting out? Different sound but you may be hearing the starter relay mounted behind the ABS unit and below the wiper motor. Have someone turn the key while you listen from the engine compartment.damromeo wrote:........but there is an odd clicking/clunking noise coming from the inside of the dash on the passenger side (like a roomba robot vacuum that keeps bumping into the same object over and over again).....
Sorry, but you've got wiring problems. The only bulb that should stay lit with the key removed is the security light in the instrument cluster which will start flashing slowly a minute or two after the doors are locked.damromeo wrote:.......when I remove the key from the ignition the hud stays lit up but says nothing, and my brake indicator stays lit but very, very dim. the security light works like I would expect one to......
One or more of your speaker mounted amplifiers is shot. The speaker should work fine once the amp is replaced. Until you can afford replacement amps remove the door panel to unplug the offender if it's in the front. If it's a rear speaker it can be unplugged by removing just a couple of the plastic screws in the trunk trim and reaching in.damromeo wrote:.....although when I turn the radio on there is this ear piercing constant beep almost like a car alarm until the radio is turned off......
haven't tested the starter yet....got the car 2 days ago, and in believing the previous owner i tore into the dash. but I did speak to my father (mechanic for over 35 years) about the clicking and not starting and he said to test the starteras well.goody94q45 wrote:
Are the battery cable clamps making a good tight connection? Any trouble getting them to tighten when you installed the battery? If it was this symptom alone I'd say check the the clamps and clean up the ground or, your starter has gone bad.
If the odometer display says LOW BATTERY CHARGE and the brake light is dim it normally means the alternator is not charging properly. This is with the engine running of course.
Don't worry about the TRANSMISSION MALFUNCTION warning for know until you get the engine running. It's a seperate issue that shouldn't affect driveability.
Could it be the heater mixer door shorting out? Different sound but you may be hearing the starter relay mounted behind the ABS unit and below the wiper motor. Have someone turn the key while you listen from the engine compartment.
Sorry, but you've got wiring problems. The only bulb that should stay lit with the key removed is the security light in the instrument cluster which will start flashing slowly a minute or two after the doors are locked.
One or more of your speaker mounted amplifiers is shot. The speaker should work fine once the amp is replaced. Until you can afford replacement amps remove the door panel to unplug the offender if it's in the front. If it's a rear speaker it can be unplugged by removing just a couple of the plastic screws in the trunk trim and reaching in.
the negative clamp is cracked, and the positive is corroded.......bought newer style aftermarket clamps that I have used on other cars to replace them. As for the idiot lights staying on.....my wife had a 2001 Sunfire that had the starter going out in it and if she cranked it until the battery was low.....or seemed low, the idiot lights on the instrument cluster would stay lit after removing the key from the ignition...I'm hoping that this is the case with those. The starter is my next victim...gonna check it out tomorrow. having found all the wiring he tapped into, and the remote start brain box (it was on the floorboards in the back) with no relays whatsoever wired to the remote start harness I believe it might have kept the starter engaged and fried it out. I think the constant clunking sound is the automast antenna in the rear quarter panel area. It doesn't come up when the ignition is turned on.goody94q45 wrote:
Are the battery cable clamps making a good tight connection? Any trouble getting them to tighten when you installed the battery? If it was this symptom alone I'd say check the the clamps and clean up the ground or, your starter has gone bad.
If the odometer display says LOW BATTERY CHARGE and the brake light is dim it normally means the alternator is not charging properly. This is with the engine running of course.
Don't worry about the TRANSMISSION MALFUNCTION warning for know until you get the engine running. It's a seperate issue that shouldn't affect driveability.
Could it be the heater mixer door shorting out? Different sound but you may be hearing the starter relay mounted behind the ABS unit and below the wiper motor. Have someone turn the key while you listen from the engine compartment.
Sorry, but you've got wiring problems. The only bulb that should stay lit with the key removed is the security light in the instrument cluster which will start flashing slowly a minute or two after the doors are locked.
One or more of your speaker mounted amplifiers is shot. The speaker should work fine once the amp is replaced. Until you can afford replacement amps remove the door panel to unplug the offender if it's in the front. If it's a rear speaker it can be unplugged by removing just a couple of the plastic screws in the trunk trim and reaching in.
seriously I dont think I'm in over my head...I'm a pretty smart guy (It helps to solve the problem when you have all the facts........I obviously wasn't supplied with the correct information when the buyer decided to blow smoke up my @$$). I dont think he wanted to admit that he screwed it up himself by trying to put in the remote start himself. because I still havent found any ripped apart wiring. I found where the remote start wiring harness was tapped into the dash wiring on the car but that is all. so he was trying to save face. probably didnt want his woman to find out that he screwed up the car that they had JUST bought. I found the dealer pink slip in the car they bought it 9-08-2008, and sold it 2-06-2009. needless to say I believe this guy would be best asking me if I want fries with that. not to harp on him but definately not the most mechanically inclined person I have ever met.Paul Wall wrote:I am sorry but i think you should return the car and get a refund or at least literary crap on his car.
But you in way over your head, because when ever I hear about people buying cars with chopped up harnesses (Aftermarket alarms, radios...) I think about how hard it would be to diagnose because its hard enough trying to diagnose 14+ year old wiring.
But I would try hitting the starter with a hammer and see what that does.
Man, this is the 1st time that I've heard a Q's motor being rebuilt. I wonder if the chain guides were replaced during the rebuild? In your case, I truly hope so because the previous owner didn't take care of the car at all. Now you have transmission issues??? I don't know much about the 1 gen trannys, but I think the first thing would be to check the transmission fluid. If the motor has been rebuilt, I guarantee that he probably NEVER changed the fluid in that car. Didn't the 1 gen trannys have issues with heat?damromeo wrote:Well i'm a bit happier now.........the engine was rebuilt 15000 miles ago. I spoke to the shop that did the rebuild....and they said it was a huge mess when they took the engine apart. but the "genuises" didn't hook up the grounding wire to the engine. I just took it for a drive and the transmission won't shift out of low. hoping the transmission is just low on fluid.....gonna put it up on ramps tomorrow and check it out. It is now snowing outside and cold as hell. thanks for the trouble shooting guys.
But now I need to pick your brains about the transmission shift issue.
"I Am HAPPIER NOW" Are you kidding yourself? HUGE, HUGE red flag there- nobody, repeat nobody, spends the coin to rebuild a motor in an old car worth almost nothing, unless they plan to keep it.......they didnt, because it turned out to be a clusterfuk of problems, so they dumped{sold} it to a naive buyer. You inherited their nightmare. Even if you could sort out the obvious issues to get the Q rolling down the road under its own power, I would seriously question the quality and longevity of any rebuilt VH45de motor- much better luck with a carefully examined junkyard takeout.damromeo wrote:Well i'm a bit happier now.........the engine was rebuilt 15000 miles ago. I spoke to the shop that did the rebuild....and they said it was a huge mess when they took the engine apart. but the "genuises" didn't hook up the grounding wire to the engine. I just took it for a drive and the transmission won't shift out of low. hoping the transmission is just low on fluid.....gonna put it up on ramps tomorrow and check it out. It is now snowing outside and cold as hell. thanks for the trouble shooting guys.
But now I need to pick your brains about the transmission shift issue.
Oh, man...am I livid!!! As I read the thread, I became more and more sure, and was about to post, to check both the cabin grounds and the engine compartment grounds. I was savoring the moment of posting after Dennis and giving the correct solution...DAMN. I'll wait another 2 years I guess.damromeo wrote:Well i'm a bit happier now.........the engine was rebuilt 15000 miles ago. I spoke to the shop that did the rebuild....and they said it was a huge mess when they took the engine apart. but the "genuises" didn't hook up the grounding wire to the engine. I just took it for a drive and the transmission won't shift out of low. hoping the transmission is just low on fluid.....gonna put it up on ramps tomorrow and check it out. It is now snowing outside and cold as hell. thanks for the trouble shooting guys.
But now I need to pick your brains about the transmission shift issue.
I like the car so I bought it........the listing for the car is here....paranoidjack wrote:Good luck with the car! If you can get your money back, do it. There are many many more Q's out there for similar coin with fewer issues. If not, who cares? Is it your daily driver? Do you enjoy turning wrenches on gravel in 20 degree weather? Do you constantly have bloody knuckles and enjoy it? If you're anything like me, you do, and gremlins are more fun to hunt than deer!
Well that was harsh. I like being called naive as much as the next guy. but come on man.....cleaning your dirty boots off on my enthusiasm was not cool. I understand you are just airing your concern about my choice to buy a "junkyard takeout" but you could have been a little more subtle. and so you know the engine runs great, no oil leaks, odd noises, funny vibrations, or missing. and they were expecting to keep the car until it wouldnt start. i'm not sure why it even started for them to begin with (maybe it was resting on bare metal just enough to ground out like it was supposed to and driving it made it lose its connection). and as far as spending the coin to rebuild the motor in an old car worth almost nothing........heres some food for thought....I have a 1994 Chevy Silverado Ext cab shortbox 4x4 300,000 miles. I have rebuilt the motor once myself along with the transmission once. and the most I have ever had anyone offer me for it was 2500.00. my point is if you love your car/truck/motorcycle/scooter enough you will spend the coin to put them back on the road. My favorite saying "better the devil you know, then the devil you dont".....qship96 wrote:
"I Am HAPPIER NOW" Are you kidding yourself? HUGE, HUGE red flag there- nobody, repeat nobody, spends the coin to rebuild a motor in an old car worth almost nothing, unless they plan to keep it.......they didnt, because it turned out to be a clusterfuk of problems, so they dumped{sold} it to a naive buyer. You inherited their nightmare. Even if you could sort out the obvious issues to get the Q rolling down the road under its own power, I would seriously question the quality and longevity of any rebuilt VH45de motor- much better luck with a carefully examined junkyard takeout.
Honestly, that's a warm welcome here...hehe. I'm with you man, project cars are great. If you can rebuild a transmission, you can sift through your issues here. If they had the motor running that recently, I'm sure you can get it going.damromeo wrote:
Well that was harsh. I like being called naive as much as the next guy. but come on man.....cleaning your dirty boots off on my enthusiasm was not cool. I understand you are just airing your concern about my choice to buy a "junkyard takeout" but you could have been a little more subtle. and so you know the engine runs great, no oil leaks, odd noises, funny vibrations, or missing. and they were expecting to keep the car until it wouldnt start. i'm not sure why it even started for them to begin with (maybe it was resting on bare metal just enough to ground out like it was supposed to and driving it made it lose its connection). and as far as spending the coin to rebuild the motor in an old car worth almost nothing........heres some food for thought....I have a 1994 Chevy Silverado Ext cab shortbox 4x4 300,000 miles. I have rebuilt the motor once myself along with the transmission once. and the most I have ever had anyone offer me for it was 2500.00. my point is if you love your car/truck/motorcycle/scooter enough you will spend the coin to put them back on the road. My favorite saying "better the devil you know, then the devil you dont".....
I admit I bought a nightmare, I knew it when I paid for it, but given enough time and this nightmare will look like Angelina Jolie strutting naked through my garage.
You obviously didnt comprehend what I wrote based on your above response.....let me clarify my original post for you.damromeo wrote:
Well that was harsh. I like being called naive as much as the next guy. but come on man.....cleaning your dirty boots off on my enthusiasm was not cool. I understand you are just airing your concern about my choice to buy a "junkyard takeout" but you could have been a little more subtle. and so you know the engine runs great, no oil leaks, odd noises, funny vibrations, or missing. and they were expecting to keep the car until it wouldnt start. i'm not sure why it even started for them to begin with (maybe it was resting on bare metal just enough to ground out like it was supposed to and driving it made it lose its connection). and as far as spending the coin to rebuild the motor in an old car worth almost nothing........heres some food for thought....I have a 1994 Chevy Silverado Ext cab shortbox 4x4 300,000 miles. I have rebuilt the motor once myself along with the transmission once. and the most I have ever had anyone offer me for it was 2500.00. my point is if you love your car/truck/motorcycle/scooter enough you will spend the coin to put them back on the road. My favorite saying "better the devil you know, then the devil you dont".....
I admit I bought a nightmare, I knew it when I paid for it, but given enough time and this nightmare will look like Angelina Jolie strutting naked through my garage.
USA sourced rebuilder, NO.qship96 wrote:......I dont know of a single USA sourced rebuilder who can cost effectivly rebuild this particular engine to the tolerances it was originally constructed to when it left the factory in Japan, and if you search this site, you will see no-one else does either.