Does RB20 bolt in?????
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beauy
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 10:16 am
- Car: Racing, drifting, fixing crapy engineering mistakes
Does RB20 bolt in?????
Does the RB20 a direct bolt in swap???? if not what has to be modified to fit into a 1989 S13 chasis? thanks
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frosted flakes
- Posts: 410
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Answers for the S13 for the rb20det swap.
I know for the S13 it is pretty much a direct bolt in. If you use the skylines crossmember it will bolt in.
1) You have to keep the 240sx's steering rack. 2) You will also have to turn the transmission bracket around for it to align to the proper spot. 3) You will have to modify the turbo dump pipe in order for the steering column to clear if you are using the skylines motormounts. 4) If you are using McKinney motormounts you wont have to. The skyline stock downpipe WILL connect directly to the 240sx stock exhaust using the skylines motor mounts and crossmember.5) I reccomend getting 3" pipe from the turbo down though. 6) If you are using the skylines original motormounts in the s13 and sticking with the stock rb20det intake manifold, intercooler and piping you will have to cut some of the bracing for it to fit. 7) Also you will have to modify the heater hoses going into the heater. 8) You will have to use a pusher fan in front of the radiator because no fan will fit in front of the engine.
9) there are many other little mods you need to do to make it working but those are the big ones.
It may sound complicated but if you take one step at a time you will get it done.
I know for the S13 it is pretty much a direct bolt in. If you use the skylines crossmember it will bolt in.
1) You have to keep the 240sx's steering rack. 2) You will also have to turn the transmission bracket around for it to align to the proper spot. 3) You will have to modify the turbo dump pipe in order for the steering column to clear if you are using the skylines motormounts. 4) If you are using McKinney motormounts you wont have to. The skyline stock downpipe WILL connect directly to the 240sx stock exhaust using the skylines motor mounts and crossmember.5) I reccomend getting 3" pipe from the turbo down though. 6) If you are using the skylines original motormounts in the s13 and sticking with the stock rb20det intake manifold, intercooler and piping you will have to cut some of the bracing for it to fit. 7) Also you will have to modify the heater hoses going into the heater. 8) You will have to use a pusher fan in front of the radiator because no fan will fit in front of the engine.
9) there are many other little mods you need to do to make it working but those are the big ones.
It may sound complicated but if you take one step at a time you will get it done.
frosted flakes, is there any chance that you could email me a pic of what you did with #2?
We turned my mount around, anticipating this because everyone said that's what you have to do, and found that it did not fit (even with the spacer). So we turned it back around... and it fits perfectly... just like it should. And I measured this stuff and found the engine and transmission mounting points on my S14 to be in the exact same locations (relative to each other) as the Skyline mounting points.
Why are people turning the mounts around? They are designed with an offset, and if you turn them around, then your transmission sits lower than it should. And I thought the S14 and S13 trannies were the same... which means mounting points should be the same.
Also, there is NO WAY my mounting points could be so far off as to make this work for me and not for everyone else. Even if the car was really wrecked bad.
What gives? Anyone else with an RB20 in their S14 have to turn the mount around and make a spacer?
We turned my mount around, anticipating this because everyone said that's what you have to do, and found that it did not fit (even with the spacer). So we turned it back around... and it fits perfectly... just like it should. And I measured this stuff and found the engine and transmission mounting points on my S14 to be in the exact same locations (relative to each other) as the Skyline mounting points.
Why are people turning the mounts around? They are designed with an offset, and if you turn them around, then your transmission sits lower than it should. And I thought the S14 and S13 trannies were the same... which means mounting points should be the same.
Also, there is NO WAY my mounting points could be so far off as to make this work for me and not for everyone else. Even if the car was really wrecked bad.
What gives? Anyone else with an RB20 in their S14 have to turn the mount around and make a spacer?
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PROJECTRB240SX
- Posts: 3673
- Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2003 5:33 pm
- Car: 1972 DATSUN 240Z W/ SR20DET
MY transmission MOUNT WAS FINE IN THE STOCK POSITION.
FOR THE DUMP PIPE ROTATE THE RACK FORWARD UNTIL THE LOCK BOLT ON THE STEERING INPUT YOKE HITS THE NOTCH ON THE SHAFT, THIS WILL GIVE YOU ALL KINDS OF ROOM BETWEEN THE DUMP PIPE AND STEERING YOKE.
THE STOCK KA SPEEDO SENSOR WORKS IN PLACE OF THE CABLE RB SENSOR.
THE ONLY RB HANESS I USED WAS THE ECU/ENGINE HARNESS AND SPLICED SOME OF THE LOWER ENGINE HARNESS PLUGS ONTO THE KA HARNESS.
THE STOCK KA CAT AND CAT BACK BOLT UP TO THE R32-R33 DOWNPIPES. ALTHOUGH THIS IS A PERFORMANCE DEGRADE.
FOR THE DUMP PIPE ROTATE THE RACK FORWARD UNTIL THE LOCK BOLT ON THE STEERING INPUT YOKE HITS THE NOTCH ON THE SHAFT, THIS WILL GIVE YOU ALL KINDS OF ROOM BETWEEN THE DUMP PIPE AND STEERING YOKE.
THE STOCK KA SPEEDO SENSOR WORKS IN PLACE OF THE CABLE RB SENSOR.
THE ONLY RB HANESS I USED WAS THE ECU/ENGINE HARNESS AND SPLICED SOME OF THE LOWER ENGINE HARNESS PLUGS ONTO THE KA HARNESS.
THE STOCK KA CAT AND CAT BACK BOLT UP TO THE R32-R33 DOWNPIPES. ALTHOUGH THIS IS A PERFORMANCE DEGRADE.
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frosted flakes
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- Contact:
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PROJECTRB240SX
- Posts: 3673
- Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2003 5:33 pm
- Car: 1972 DATSUN 240Z W/ SR20DET
THE RB20DET VALVETRAIN IS THE SAME AS THE VG30DE SERIES ENGINES, SOME BELTS CROSS, THE SPRAK PLUGS CROSS, THE FILTERS CROSS TO 300ZX, THE COIL PACKS CROSS TO VG30DE, THE MAF CAN BE SWAPPED TO Z32, FUEL INJECTORS ARE TOP FEED SO A AFM WILL CONTROL WHATEVER YOU PUT IN, THE TIMING BELTS ARE AVAILABLE, GASKET SETS ARE NOW AVAIABLE, AND THE REST CAN BE FOUND OVERSEAS AND IN STOCK IN SELECT BUSINESSES.
THE AUTO transmission MAY NEED TO BE REVERSED BUT I'M NOT SURE.
THE AUTO transmission MAY NEED TO BE REVERSED BUT I'M NOT SURE.
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PROJECTRB240SX
- Posts: 3673
- Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2003 5:33 pm
- Car: 1972 DATSUN 240Z W/ SR20DET
frosted flakes wrote:Answers for the S13 for the rb20det swap.
9) there are many other little mods you need to do to make it working but those are the big ones.
Do you dont mind what other little mods do you have to do? Thanks
and for wiring i forget this person NICO sn i think its nismo241, but their use to be a site called http://www.rbswaps.com and it has the SOHC s13 wiring information for the RB20DET i think the person email was [email protected]
i have the print out some where here but i try to find it, because i am goin to need to use it too, i hope
i can buy it cost to much, does retypin sound good???-
easymmkay240sx
- Posts: 348
- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 6:55 am
Kinko's?93RPS13 wrote:Do you dont mind what other little mods do you have to do? Thanks
and for wiring i forget this person NICO sn i think its nismo241, but their use to be a site called http://www.rbswaps.com and it has the SOHC s13 wiring information for the RB20DET i think the person email was [email protected]
i have the print out some where here but i try to find it, because i am goin to need to use it too, i hope
I'm in need of it too 
This how-to is for 89-90 240SXs that came equipped with SOHC engines. Wiring up a 91-94 DOHC engine should be very similar, but not quite the same. This how-to also assumes that you already have the engine and transmission installed. If you are performing this swap, make sure you have the engine and transmission installed properly.
1) Run the ECU harness into the passenger side of the car, extending the mass air flow sensor, and O2 sensor wires.
2) Locate 2 plugs on the RB20 motor harness. Both being rectangle and one having 6 wires, and the other having 8 wires.
3) After locating these, find the female end of each of these plugs and cut them back about 6-8 inches.
4) Locate 2 oval plugs on the KA chassis harness, one being grey, and the other being brown.
5) After finding these, cut the Black/red wire, and connect it to the Black/red wire on the RB plug that was just cut.
6) On that same plug, cut the Red wire and splice it to the white/black wire on the same RB plug.
7) Going towards the fuse box, there will be a white wire that goes into the box. Cut and strip both ends of it.
8) Splice the white/purple wire from the RB plug into the white wire.
9) Off of the ECU there is a Black/pink wire for the fuel pump, run a wire from the ECU into the engine bay to the black/pink wire from the fuse box.
10) Now there will be a plug with 2 wires in it on the KA chassis harness, one being white and the other being black/yellow. Find the black/white wire on the other RB plug and connect the two.
11) Coming out of the fuse box there will be a plug that contains a small white/red wire. Take that and connect it to the white red wire coming from the RB motor harness by the alternator.
12) Take the thick white/blue wire and run a wire from there to the positive battery terminal; that will charge the battery from the alternator. The way I did mine was I took the RB battery harness and connected it to the battery as well as the KA battery harness, that way it powers the KA harness and the RB harness, same goes for the negative battery cable.
13) Make sure to use the ground for the starter from the KA lower harness
1) Run the ECU harness into the passenger side of the car, extending the mass air flow sensor, and O2 sensor wires.
2) Locate 2 plugs on the RB20 motor harness. Both being rectangle and one having 6 wires, and the other having 8 wires.
3) After locating these, find the female end of each of these plugs and cut them back about 6-8 inches.
4) Locate 2 oval plugs on the KA chassis harness, one being grey, and the other being brown.
5) After finding these, cut the Black/red wire, and connect it to the Black/red wire on the RB plug that was just cut.
6) On that same plug, cut the Red wire and splice it to the white/black wire on the same RB plug.
7) Going towards the fuse box, there will be a white wire that goes into the box. Cut and strip both ends of it.
8) Splice the white/purple wire from the RB plug into the white wire.
9) Off of the ECU there is a Black/pink wire for the fuel pump, run a wire from the ECU into the engine bay to the black/pink wire from the fuse box.
10) Now there will be a plug with 2 wires in it on the KA chassis harness, one being white and the other being black/yellow. Find the black/white wire on the other RB plug and connect the two.
11) Coming out of the fuse box there will be a plug that contains a small white/red wire. Take that and connect it to the white red wire coming from the RB motor harness by the alternator.
12) Take the thick white/blue wire and run a wire from there to the positive battery terminal; that will charge the battery from the alternator. The way I did mine was I took the RB battery harness and connected it to the battery as well as the KA battery harness, that way it powers the KA harness and the RB harness, same goes for the negative battery cable.
13) Make sure to use the ground for the starter from the KA lower harness