Oh I thought you did b/c I read that test pipes needed the computer reset so I figured the HFC would tooG_whizz wrote:Kewl... you should not have to reset the carputer..
Test pipes are eliminating the cat. Having no cat will cause a check engine light because the 2nd O2 sensor is checking for an alternating voltage signal between -.1 and .1 V. If the cat is gone, the signal sweeps from -1 to 1 V (the same as the upper O2 sensor), and causes a check engine light.CYO44Baseball32 wrote:
Oh I thought you did b/c I read that test pipes needed the computer reset so I figured the HFC would too
PB Blaster, not WD 40. PB Blaster practically loosens up bolts without having to use a wrench.WDRacing wrote:Spray everything with WD40 the day prior.
I like the WDEZcheese15 wrote:
PB Blaster, not WD 40. PB Blaster practically loosens up bolts without having to use a wrench.
WD is gay, and so is the lubricantWDRacing wrote:
I like the WD
EZcheese15 wrote:
WD is gay, and so is the lubricant
Use a watch or something with a second hand when doing it the way I mentioned. If you don't do it exact it doesn't work. It took me about 10 times to get it right the very first time I did it.CYO44Baseball32 wrote:I tried the reset way where you dont unplug the battery mentioned above and it didn't do anything. Then I tried the remove the ground and depress the brake and the "service engine soon" light disappeared. Then 20 mins into driving the "service engine soon" light came back on. Anyone know of any way to reset it another way or something else to do to get it to stop lighting up?