This is my first year storing a car for the winter and I just wanted some input.
I've been told to top off the gas tank to prevent corosion. Will the gas tank in the Z corrode if it's got less than a quarter tank of gas in it? I'd rather leave it empty that way its not full of old gas when I get her out this spring. The same person also mentioned using Stay-Bil in the tank to keep the gas fresh.
Other thoughts are should I start it and let it warm up once and a while? Just to keep things lubbed up.
And should I disconnect the battery? If I start it once a month I dont think this will be an issue.
Thanks all.
I drove my 240 in the snow and it was a blast but this car is too nice at this point...
Do you store your Z in the winter?
-
spitalul2bad
- Posts: 327
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 12:25 pm
- Car: Nissan 350z Roadster - REV-UP Engine
Opel Vectra C
BMW E30 6cylinder 2000cmc - Contact:
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (ZedHead)
If you have access to the car, the best route to go about it is to start her up about once every two to three weeks. Leave the car running for 10 minutes. Also, buy a car-cover if it's not in a garage, or if you have a duplex/two-car garage with a single garage door.
If you will leave, and won't have access to the car for the whole of winter, disconnect the battery, don't engage the parking brake, don't leave it in gear, block the wheels (rocks or whatever you can find if you don't have actual stops) and you should be fine for 3 - 4 months.
I would fill the car up in either case. If keep starting her up for 10 minutes twice a month (or once a month), you'll use up some of the gas, but you'll have more than enough when you thaw it out in the spring. If you leave it untouched and prep it for winter, I'd go 2/3 of the gas tank filled with gas.
Finally, in both cases (if you have a garage), buy a de-humidifier to keep out the moisture (even if the garage is heated).
If you're very particular, this article will give you step-by-step instructions of storing your car... although most of it is overkill in my opinion.
http://www.techguys.ca/howto/winter.html
If you will leave, and won't have access to the car for the whole of winter, disconnect the battery, don't engage the parking brake, don't leave it in gear, block the wheels (rocks or whatever you can find if you don't have actual stops) and you should be fine for 3 - 4 months.
I would fill the car up in either case. If keep starting her up for 10 minutes twice a month (or once a month), you'll use up some of the gas, but you'll have more than enough when you thaw it out in the spring. If you leave it untouched and prep it for winter, I'd go 2/3 of the gas tank filled with gas.
Finally, in both cases (if you have a garage), buy a de-humidifier to keep out the moisture (even if the garage is heated).
If you're very particular, this article will give you step-by-step instructions of storing your car... although most of it is overkill in my opinion.
http://www.techguys.ca/howto/winter.html
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (spitalul2bad)
Quote »I'm going to storage my Z in about month or so. This is my second time storage my z, so i decided to search again lol..
To store the car:
* Change the oil and filter before you store it. The "impurities" in the oil can form acid, and this can degrade the engine's internals. The impurities are caused by the fuel/combustion/dirt/moisture that gets past the the piston rings, seals, and filters. A fresh oil change removes the gunk and gives you clean oil. If you don't change oil yourself, having it done and driving home to part the car will be sufficient. * Inflate the tires to the maximum pressure on the sidewall. This will reduce any tendencies for the tire to flat spot - although this is not a real problem with modern/radial tires. Don't forget to lower the air pressure in the spring. * Wash the car. A clean car is always better. A cover helps to keep the dust, etc. off the car. * DO NOT "jack the car up". Don't store it on jack stands raised off the ground. That is a carry over from ancient times when old bias belted tires would flat spot and go bad. Storing a car with the suspension "drooped" is very bad on the rubber bushings, and will greatly accelerate the degradation of the rubber bushings. Even if flat spotting tires was a problem (it isn't), new tires are much, much cheaper than replacing the bushings in the suspension. * DO NOT START THE CAR. Starting the car every couple of weeks is bad for the engine. Most of the impurities in the oil happen when you start the car. Running the car for a short time does not warm things up to the point that the impurities will be evaporated. In order to properly warm things up, you would need to take the car on a spirited drive for 30 - 60 minutes. Running it in the garage does no good at all, and is very bad on the engine. * Add Stabil to the gas - this prevents the gas from going "bad" and/or forming varnish in the tank and fuel system.
Now, all that being said, the reality is that you can most likely just pull the car into the garage, connect up the battery Tender/MINDer/conditioner, and call it good. That's all most people do, and it's more than the typical car gets at a dealer (think about it, the typical car is made in Japan, loaded on a boat, transported for weeks, unloaded at the dock, loaded on a truck to the dealer, and parked - often for months - until it's sold. The someone buys a "brand new" car.
Most years, I simply park the car, connect my Battery MINDer, and call it good. If there's a nice warm day during the storage, I may take the car out for a nice drive - but only if the roads are clear and there is no salt on the road. I've never had a problem with my cars setting out a few months of winter. I usually don't even get around to doing a "special " oil change, unless the car was actually due for one.
[/quote]
To store the car:
* Change the oil and filter before you store it. The "impurities" in the oil can form acid, and this can degrade the engine's internals. The impurities are caused by the fuel/combustion/dirt/moisture that gets past the the piston rings, seals, and filters. A fresh oil change removes the gunk and gives you clean oil. If you don't change oil yourself, having it done and driving home to part the car will be sufficient. * Inflate the tires to the maximum pressure on the sidewall. This will reduce any tendencies for the tire to flat spot - although this is not a real problem with modern/radial tires. Don't forget to lower the air pressure in the spring. * Wash the car. A clean car is always better. A cover helps to keep the dust, etc. off the car. * DO NOT "jack the car up". Don't store it on jack stands raised off the ground. That is a carry over from ancient times when old bias belted tires would flat spot and go bad. Storing a car with the suspension "drooped" is very bad on the rubber bushings, and will greatly accelerate the degradation of the rubber bushings. Even if flat spotting tires was a problem (it isn't), new tires are much, much cheaper than replacing the bushings in the suspension. * DO NOT START THE CAR. Starting the car every couple of weeks is bad for the engine. Most of the impurities in the oil happen when you start the car. Running the car for a short time does not warm things up to the point that the impurities will be evaporated. In order to properly warm things up, you would need to take the car on a spirited drive for 30 - 60 minutes. Running it in the garage does no good at all, and is very bad on the engine. * Add Stabil to the gas - this prevents the gas from going "bad" and/or forming varnish in the tank and fuel system.
Now, all that being said, the reality is that you can most likely just pull the car into the garage, connect up the battery Tender/MINDer/conditioner, and call it good. That's all most people do, and it's more than the typical car gets at a dealer (think about it, the typical car is made in Japan, loaded on a boat, transported for weeks, unloaded at the dock, loaded on a truck to the dealer, and parked - often for months - until it's sold. The someone buys a "brand new" car.
Most years, I simply park the car, connect my Battery MINDer, and call it good. If there's a nice warm day during the storage, I may take the car out for a nice drive - but only if the roads are clear and there is no salt on the road. I've never had a problem with my cars setting out a few months of winter. I usually don't even get around to doing a "special " oil change, unless the car was actually due for one.
[/quote]
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (kuhan)
Quote »Since i noticed a few threads over here that some members are looking to store their Z for the winter here are a couple of things that i have come up with
Winter Storage Procedure-
--Put in fresh oil/filter and change the anti-freeze (does depend on the car/system). It's also a good idea to bleed the brakes so there is fresh brake fluid in the system.
--Fill the gas with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it). Top it off, but not to the top of the neck, leave room for it to expand and contract with the temps. Use a gas preservative such as sta-bil.
--Put plenty of air in the tires (over inflate slightly). 5 to 15 pounds should be enough.
--Make sure the car is thoroughly washed, including the underbody.
--Wash and wax your car right before storing it.
--Store the car only when it is dry.
--Make sure the car has had a good run on the highway before storing it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust system.
--To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. This plastic is cheap and a good vapor barrier.
--Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, then the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
--Put a large bag of desiccant gel inside the car. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. Put them in a pie tin on the floor of the car. You can also place an open box of Baking Soda on the floor of the car to absorb moisture. The Passenger Side floor works fine.
--Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Meguires makes a good one. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, mold and mildew will follow. Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold. You may get a musty spell concentrated over the winter.
--Take out the battery and store it inside, and trickle charge it once a month. If storing the battery outside the car, place it on wood blocks.
--If storing the car on the wheels, place cardboard or old carpet pieces under the tire to separate from the cold concrete. If you put the car on jack stands, use them under the suspension so all the bushings and springs are the way they are supposed to be, and not drooping down. Drooping from the weight of the wheels etc is hard on the suspension, and exposes parts to rust that normally are hidden.
--If the car is manual, leave it in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling.
--If the car is stored on its wheels, it may be helpful to roll the car slightly once a month.
--Never set the parking brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the drums or rotors or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage. Use wheel blocks.
--Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes.
--IMPORTANT!!!!! It is far better to let your car sit for four or five months without starting it, than to start it once a week, or once a month and let it sit for 10 minutes. NEVER start your car unless you plan on driving it on the highway for at least 1/2 hour and get it to full operating temp. Doing otherwise will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture to start rust etc.[/quote]
Winter Storage Procedure-
--Put in fresh oil/filter and change the anti-freeze (does depend on the car/system). It's also a good idea to bleed the brakes so there is fresh brake fluid in the system.
--Fill the gas with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it). Top it off, but not to the top of the neck, leave room for it to expand and contract with the temps. Use a gas preservative such as sta-bil.
--Put plenty of air in the tires (over inflate slightly). 5 to 15 pounds should be enough.
--Make sure the car is thoroughly washed, including the underbody.
--Wash and wax your car right before storing it.
--Store the car only when it is dry.
--Make sure the car has had a good run on the highway before storing it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust system.
--To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. This plastic is cheap and a good vapor barrier.
--Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, then the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
--Put a large bag of desiccant gel inside the car. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. Put them in a pie tin on the floor of the car. You can also place an open box of Baking Soda on the floor of the car to absorb moisture. The Passenger Side floor works fine.
--Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Meguires makes a good one. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, mold and mildew will follow. Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold. You may get a musty spell concentrated over the winter.
--Take out the battery and store it inside, and trickle charge it once a month. If storing the battery outside the car, place it on wood blocks.
--If storing the car on the wheels, place cardboard or old carpet pieces under the tire to separate from the cold concrete. If you put the car on jack stands, use them under the suspension so all the bushings and springs are the way they are supposed to be, and not drooping down. Drooping from the weight of the wheels etc is hard on the suspension, and exposes parts to rust that normally are hidden.
--If the car is manual, leave it in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling.
--If the car is stored on its wheels, it may be helpful to roll the car slightly once a month.
--Never set the parking brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the drums or rotors or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage. Use wheel blocks.
--Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes.
--IMPORTANT!!!!! It is far better to let your car sit for four or five months without starting it, than to start it once a week, or once a month and let it sit for 10 minutes. NEVER start your car unless you plan on driving it on the highway for at least 1/2 hour and get it to full operating temp. Doing otherwise will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture to start rust etc.[/quote]
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (spitalul2bad)
Not a good idea! See my quotes.spitalul2bad wrote:If you have access to the car, the best route to go about it is to start her up about once every two to three weeks. Leave the car running for 10 minutes. Also, buy a car-cover if it's not in a garage, or if you have a duplex/two-car garage with a single garage door.
Quote »If you will leave, and won't have access to the car for the whole of winter, disconnect the battery, don't engage the parking brake, don't leave it in gear, block the wheels (rocks or whatever you can find if you don't have actual stops) and you should be fine for 3 - 4 months.[/quote]Get a battery tender/minder and you are set.
-
spitalul2bad
- Posts: 327
- Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 12:25 pm
- Car: Nissan 350z Roadster - REV-UP Engine
Opel Vectra C
BMW E30 6cylinder 2000cmc - Contact:
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (kuhan)
I've always done the starting the engine thing. Never heard it might be bad, even from dealerships. I agree it doesn't "work" the engine and parts as they should work (during a drive), but if you're not moving it for 3 or more months... oh well.
Also, a battery minder is a good idea...
Also, a battery minder is a good idea...
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (kuhan)
keeping the battery inside out of the cold is a good idea.
but it doesn't need to be stored on blocks or anything, that was the standard when batteries were made with wood, and the wood grounded out through the floor
but it doesn't need to be stored on blocks or anything, that was the standard when batteries were made with wood, and the wood grounded out through the floor
-
Watermelonwarrior
- Posts: 1139
- Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2006 5:47 pm
- Car: 2006 Cayman S 6SPD
- Contact:
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (spitalul2bad)
Why? Just seems like over kill to me. Especially being a 350zspitalul2bad wrote:Finally, in both cases (if you have a garage), buy a de-humidifier to keep out the moisture (even if the garage is heated).
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (Watermelonwarrior)
sounds good. thanks everyone for the inputs. I did some searching and found most of the things to be over kill in my opinion.
Was mostly wondering about the tank being empty or full.
It is in a storage unit, no heat or power. With the Z cover of course.
Was mostly wondering about the tank being empty or full.
It is in a storage unit, no heat or power. With the Z cover of course.
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (ZedHead)
where can i get an outdoor z coupe car cover? ive looked around and none are too specific
Re: Do you store your Z in the winter? (cf516)
^try the thezstore.com