After watching few YouTube videos on how to clean the carbon out of a G35 model, I decided to give Seafoam a go in my 2004 FX45... and found the entire process was very easy to do! However, I made some minor adjustments to the procedure after watching a few video (Bozo's) on YouTube. (No disrespect. These videos were very helpful. See below.)

COMPLAINT: After owning my new-to-me 2004 FX45 (V8) for a couple months, I found two things I did not like:

1) The oil consumption was in the 1-qt/800 mile range.

2) When is started my car at any time during the day, and not just in the morning, I would see blue smoke coming out the tail pipe for about 5 seconds.

To address these things I followed the following Seafoam cleaning procedure:

1) Disconnect the vacuum line to the power brake bellows and let it hang in place.

2) Add a small light in that area so you can see. Then take a plastic catch-cup and insert the vacuum line so that it is about 1/2" off the bottom, with the cup tilted.

3) Use a 4.5' wood stick or shower-pole to "sandwich" between the seat headrest and the accelerator peddle. Then adjust the seat to achieve ~2000 to 2200 RPM.

Tip: Place a filled bag or some other item in-front of the accelerator peddle -- so the sick applies positive pressure to the peddle.

4) Start the engine with the vacuum line sucking air. This will not be a problem. Then pour a full 16 oz. can of Seafoam into the catch-cup... at a rate that does not cause the engine to stall. (Note: This catch-cup approach works better than what you will see in the videos below.)

5) When you use up all the Seafoam, just turn off the engine and let the Seafoam soak in your engine for 10-15 minutes.

VIDEO #1:


VIDEO #2:


6) Reattach your vacuum brake line and start the car.

...Then rev the engine up and down for ~2 minutes. Then turn-off the engine for 5 minutes and repeat this step. Tip: Don't get too aggressive on the RPM at first... and I don't see any reason to exceed 4,500 RPM.

TIP: Position the car exhaust so the wind blows the smoke in a favorable direction.

7) When the majority of the smoke stops, then you can take your car for an aggressive drive in 1st and 2nd gear. (Be save on city streets!) It will only take about 5 minutes for all the exhaust smoke to stop; and hopefully you will notice a more responsive engine and torque when you are done.

8) OPTIONAL STEP: I added a can of Seafoam to a 1/2 tank of fuel, which is about 1.5 oz/gallon of fuel.

NOTE: I never used the spay bottle Seafoam, because I did not find one for sale at any of my local auto parts stores; and I found Seafoam is usually cheaper at Walmart.

9) OPTIONAL STEP: After taking the car for an aggressive drive (post Seafoam cleaning as discussed above); I then added 10 oz of Seafoam to the engine oil and drove around town for 2 days without heavy acceleration. Then I did a full oil change and switched from 5W-30 to 10W-30, non-synthetic, which I hope will lessen my engine's oil-burn rate. TBD. I will have to get back to you all on that (And I put the remaining 6 oz of Seafoam into the fuel tank).

Note: I will not be able to verify less oil-burn until I drive my car for another couple months so I will need to report back to you if this improves. However, I can already see my engine in not blowing any blue smoke when I start it, so that's a good sign.

OP UPDATE: It's been 1,400 miles since I changed my oil to Semi-synthetic 10W-30 and the dipstick still registers right at the "full" level. That said, I give a big two-thumbs-up to Seafoam for cleaning up the carbon in my cylinders/piston rings.

Nice work! Just a side note, that procedure would also help scrub out your PCV Valve and plumbing, which could well have contributed to your oil consumption. I have zero bad word words to say about SeaFoam. It's great s__t pretty much across the board.

imnprsd wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 09, 2022 5:45 pm

OP UPDATE: It's been 1,400 miles since I changed my oil to Semi-synthetic 10W-30 and the dipstick still registers right at the "full" level. That said, I give a big two-thumbs-up to Seafoam for cleaning up the carbon in my cylinders/piston rings.

That's so awesome!!

OP FOLLOW-UP: After driving a few thousand miles since I Seafomed my engine:

1) My oil burn is much less, but since I leve in warm weather all year long, I'm going to change my oil at the next oil change to 10-40W and add a qt of Rislone in place of the 6th quart to help with dry starts, which is probably not a bad idea anyway.

2) I changed my spark plugs today and all are buring normal. So I would say, it's a good idea to stay with the OEM heat range and go with the Denso Iridum type:

OEM plug used in the 2004 FX45 is a NGK # P-LFR5A-11, Gap: .043" (1.1mm). Torque the plug to 17.5 N-m. This is the same plug as the NGK V Power Copper Spark Plug 6376 or the Denso Iridium SK16HR11.

POSSIBLE DOWN SIDE TO USING SEAFOAM

1) My valve cover gasket started to leak. I have 115,000 miles on my FX45, but I don't know if the Seafoam accelerated this common problem or not. I.e., from my research I see V8 valve cover can leak between 100K and 200K, but I was hoping my valve cover seals would not go out this soon. Did the Seafoam have something to do with this? IDK. What I can tell you is that all my valve cover bolt were about 1/8 turn too loose. So I tighten them up and I'm hoping this will cure the problem. TBD.

Summary: Since I don't like buring in 1 qt every 1000 miles, I would Seafoam my engine agian, but there are alway unintended cosequences when you put a solvent inside your oil. On the flip side, tightening your valve cover bolt seems to good maintenaince to do at 100K miles and while you are at it, I would also change your spark plugs, even if you engine is running fine, because soon you will have to do this anyway.

imnprsd wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 11, 2022 11:04 pm

OP FOLLOW-UP: After driving a few thousand miles since I Seafomed my engine:

A) 1) My oil burn is much less, but since I leve in warm weather all year long, I'm going to change my oil at the next oil change to 10-40W and add a qt of Rislone in place of the 6th quart to help with dry starts, which is probably not a bad idea anyway.

2) I changed my spark plugs today and all are buring normal. So I would say, it's a good idea to stay with the OEM heat range and go with the Denso Iridum type:

OEM plug used in the 2004 FX45 is a NGK # P-LFR5A-11, Gap: .043" (1.1mm). Torque the plug to 17.5 N-m. This is the same plug as the NGK V Power Copper Spark Plug 6376 or the Denso Iridium SK16HR11.

POSSIBLE DOWN SIDE TO USING SEAFO

B) 1) My valve cover gasket started to leak. I have 115,000 miles on my FX45, but I don't know if the Seafoam accelerated this common problem or not. I.e., from my research I see V8 valve cover can leak between 100K and 200K, but I was hoping my valve cover seals would not go out this soon. Did the Seafoam have something to do with this? IDK. What I can tell you is that all my valve cover bolt were about 1/8 turn too loose. So I tighten them up and I'm hoping this will cure the problem. TBD.

Summary: Since I don't like buring in 1 qt every 1000 miles, I would Seafoam my engine agian, but there are alway unintended cosequences when you put a solvent inside your oil. On the flip side, tightening your valve cover bolt seems to good maintenaince to do at 100K miles and while you are at it, I would also change your spark plugs, even if you engine is running fine, because soon you will have to do this anyway.

A) Concur with the 10w-40. I do not about the Rislone treatment though.
While I do not wish to talk bad on such a established brand but there is little such a treatment can offer than a well formulated oil cannot.
Anytime u add extra additives u take away base lubestock and therefore lubricity.
B) Seafoam may or may mot had anything to do with it.
Clearly you had stuck rings that were freed by the Seafoam.
try a High milage formulation oil.