Do you have any plugs, unpugged?

[SrSLeePeR]

The topic says it all. I found 2 that are visible that are in the engine bay that are NOT connected. I'm not sure what they're for but one of them is coming off a harness to the alternator and I think the wires are brown and black but I'm not sure. The plug is actually the one that needs something to be plugged in to, not an actual plug itself. Another one is coming from I'm not sure where but its on the pasanger side going UNDER the chasis of the car. Same type of plug. My idle is high (1200-1300) and I'm not sure why it's that high. My BOV isn't leaking, and it boosts fine and everything. Sometimes when I have the brake pedal all the way down, it idles normal (800 or so...) and when I release it, it goes back up again. I'm not sure what it may be but I'm kinda having a feeling it MIGHT be one of the plugs that I see that aren't connected. I was wondering if anyone else has some plugs that are unhooked or maybe someone would know why my idle is so high which I'm mainly concerned about. Thank You.

-Albert

[I H8 UR DSM]

there are many plugs left 'unplugged' or disconnected when swapping it into the 240...most likely the idle problem is something else

are you running a upgraded ecu? safc?

[SrSLeePeR]

I'm just running a GReddy DP, GReddy FMIC, GReddy BOV, HKS filter, 300z pump & fuel filter..that's it. I'm boosting .5 bar and there aren't any boost leaks. I tried messing with the throttle position screw thing and it's all the way down. When I mess with the little screw on the ECU (SR20DET) nothing happens. I'm not sure what can be the problem. To reset it, is it like any other car? Maybe that MIGHT be the problem, but I'm not too sure... I'm guessing it's the vacuum, but I cant put my finger on what can be wrong with it...a hole?

[I H8 UR DSM]

well you didnt answer my question : )

if your running an atmospherical bov (your greddy bov), and dont have any way to compensate for that, you would have the symptoms you are explaining.....the ecu is not going to read or adjust for the bov releasing to the atmosphere, the mafs will read the air coming into the motor, and therefor drop 'said' amount of fuel, then your releasing air through the bov, but the ecu will not recognize that and adjust fuel, therefor the problem you are most likely having....you need some sort of way to compensate for that....IE APexi S-afc....otherwise you should not be running an atmostpheric bov on the sr motor...put back the recirclating valve, and most likely you will be fine.

[BuudWeizErr]

Nah, venting to ATM isn't doing that, (not to discredit you Jesse), the car just recently started doing it, I remember from an older thread.

I'm not one to let other people work on my car if I can fix it, but if you can't figure it out, why don't you just take it somewhere and have it looked at. You're in SoCal, take it to Wayne at phase2, and tell him whats wrong, he could probably help.

EDIT: Why not pull the ECU, put it on mode3 and see if it spits any error codes at you. 55 is Normal Operation, so if it throws anything else at you, then all you need is an error code key to figure out whats wrong.

[I H8 UR DSM]

Nah, venting to ATM isn't doing that, (not to discredit you Jesse),

no prob...

internet message board engine diagnostics is one of the harder things to try and determine

[martin]

The two plugs are probably:- under alternator - power steering sensor- passanger side by transmission - plug for Auto trans (as far as I can tell).

Neither would have anything to do with your high idle.

-Martin.

[skatanic28]

is it possible to put the maf sensor after the atmospheric bov to correct the state of richness? ive heard of a few people doing this but not on a 240.

[chrispy]

thats a blow though set up.

[skatanic28]

commonly done here?

[I H8 UR DSM]

paul, movingviolation runs that setup on his CA18det

[BuudWeizErr]

I intend to do that too, after I get my car running, I'm going to cut my intercooler pipe and put my MAFS in there.

[skatanic28]

any general rules for this kinda stuff?like distances between the intercooler, bov, mafs, and throttle body?i read somewhere that the mafs should be about a foot away from the throttle body.this looks like what im gonna be doing too

[SpeedRacer1]

There is one plug on my SR that if I do plug it into its proper hole the idle jumps from normal to anything above 1500 (usually 2500). Its only supposed to be plugged in for automatics (as my engine was an Auto). But if you have this plug then try unplugging it. I think it has something to do with cold start up idle. Other than that ive never actually counted how many plugs I have unplugged but I have about 15 or so.

[chrispy]

dammit, I just thought of something. If i have a 90 auto , i guess i will need to get a DOHC 5speed's wiring harness.

[SpeedRacer1]

Im using a Auto SR harness on an Auto SR that is mated to a 5 speed SR transmission.

[chrispy]

so will my SOHC auto harness work with a sr 5speeds harness ?

[SrSLeePeR]

Quote »There is one plug on my SR that if I do plug it into its proper hole the idle jumps from normal to anything above 1500 (usually 2500). Its only supposed to be plugged in for automatics (as my engine was an Auto). But if you have this plug then try unplugging it. I think it has something to do with cold start up idle. Other than that ive never actually counted how many plugs I have unplugged but I have about 15 or so.[/quote]THANK YOU SO MUCH....I looked at my motor and they were plugged. I unplugged them and ba!!!!!!! Back to normal. I can't thank you enough for the help. I've been trying to figure out for the longest time why it idles so much. THANK YOU.

[SpeedRacer1]

No problem, good luck with your engine.

Weird thing is did someone plug it in recently or have you always had it plugged and just lived with the high idle?

[SrSLeePeR]

its been pugged ever since forever

[SrSLeePeR]

Problem again. Ive talked to Dauntless via AIM but I also want to ask others as well. SpeedRacer1, Thanks for the great advice, but now the car seems to be worse for some reason. It idles fine when I first start it up. When I drive, it bogs and lags when I hit the accelerator. It feels like I don't have power for a split second and then the power kicks in...When I come to a stop, the RPM's fall all the way down to 400-500 and it'll stall most of the time. Not all the time, but most of the time. I have to give it gas so it keeps running. After that, I thought maybe it was a mistake about what I did, so I plugged those two plugs back together hoping and praying that the slug, lag, and bogging will go away. But it doesnt. So now I have bogging, and lots of lagging and it was worse than before. I'm not sure what happened. I hope anyone could help cause now I just dug myself in a deeper hole. I don't blame anyone but myself for this.

[SpeedRacer1]

Im not sure about the lagging but the immediate drop of idle is VERY HIGHLY likely to be your atmospheric BOV. That is exactly what mine does coming off of boost (even very low boost) !stalling! You may have not experienced it before because the idle was so high there was very little much time for the engine to be starved for air. Easiest way to deal with the drop is to tap the gas when its the idle is on its way down or to not completely let off the gas when switching gears. Im not too sure what plugs you unplugged, there are two that go between the 3rd and 4th intake manifold pipes and I advise you to unplug only the lower one not the second upper one. There should only be one of them unplugged on purpose.

[SrSLeePeR]

Haha...Great..The thing is, my stupid *** unplugged both. So it's my fault. Haha...You're a great help SpeedRacer1. I appreciate everything that you've helped me with. Now, I have a GReddy Type-S BOV so...How do I adjust it so that it won't stall? Dauntless also told me that theres a HIGH chance of it being because of the BOV. But one thing, I put all the plugs back to normal, but this time, it idles HIGH and it lags. Any idea why it started to happen now? I'm so confused, and fustrated. SR20DET got to me...arrrG....Anyways, I'm not giving up just yet...Hopefully somone can help me..Does anyone know how to adjust the Type-S correctly?

Thanks.

-Albert

[S13240]

Have any of you guys experienced hard cold start problems? For example when your engine is cold and you try starting it...you'll have to give your engine some gas to keep the engine running until it warms up? Would that be the cold start plug? My friend which recently installed an sr into his 90 fastback is experiencing this problem. It's on an s13 red top sr20det in a 90 fastback with stock fuel pump and stock everything else. His car is completely stock with the red top sr20.

BTW he is running a 1st gen dsm bypass valve to the atmosphere. Could the stock 1st gen dsm bypass valve be the cause of hard cold start issue?

[SpeedRacer1]

Unfortunately there is no way to adjust the BOV to not stall except to catch the vented air and reroute it to the intake. Or do a blow through valve. Honostly just practice for a week of lightly tapping the gas as it drops and you'll learn to have it stop at about 1000, its not that hard and an easy habit to pick up.

As for the plugs this is just a confirmation... You have two sets of plugs there right (top has 2 connectors, bottom has 4 connectors)? The bottom set with 4 connectors is the set to be unplugged while the top set is plugged in.

Well my car is garaged so I dont really have the coldstart issue. Though id suggest to your friend that once he gets enough money to change the filter and definately the stock pump. Other than that if the idle is that low he can try raising it with the idle adjustmant screw to find a nice equilibrium for cold and warm idle. How is his his warm up temp idle? I doubt that a atmospheric bypass valve would contribute to this problem unless the valve only works properly when its warm.

[SrSLeePeR]

I took off the clip again....just to see how it will run. Same thing. It kinda bogs when I give it gas and it doesn't want to go anywhere until I step on it some more..its like the power kicks in late or something.

When I'm idling on the driveway, the RPM's will go up and down...

Example:

It stop and the RPM's are like at 1000...then it'll go 900-800-700 so so so all the way down to 300-400....After 10 seconds or so, it'll start to rise agagin..400-500-600 and so forth all the way dto 1000....10 sec or so later, it'll drop again..It's constantly like that now and I'm not sure what to do...

I thought it might of been my fuel pump but I'm not sure if it will cause that....Sometimes it idles rich....and goes all the way do stoich...and then to rich again...It bounces back and fourth REALLY SLOW....so I know somethings wrong because the engine goes up..and down.. I hope someone can help me...Could it be the fuel pump being dead? it IS a 1990 300Z pump..Thanks.

[SrSLeePeR]

Okay..I change the fuel pump back to stock Starts fine. Idles fine. Still drives like s***. Even worse, my gas needle dropped all the way down to who knows where but that' the least of my concerns...it's probably a loose wire or something. Anyways, I drove and it doesn't BOG or anything, but it's sluggish and my A/F gauge doesn't really light up how it used to. All this is so Fu6ked up. I don't even know what to do anymore....

[SpeedRacer1]

You may have broken the float in your gas tank, that would account for the wacky fuel reading.

[SrSLeePeR]

What do I do if it's broken?

[SpeedRacer1]

Take it out and get a new one or make one yourself :P Simple fix IF it is actually broken.