Do you drop the rear end to change seals?

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
rightfoot
Posts: 43
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:15 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan TT.
Stage III Stillen Kit
(ECU, Jets, Exhaust, JW ECU)

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The main cover is leaking and from what I've read, people are saying it's a heck of a job to replace, and better off to just take the whole thing out, replace all four seals, paint etc, re-install.

Not sure how true that is but the car does have 93K miles on it so maybe it makes sense. I've got a lift and a transmission jack so I at least don't have to work on the ground and maybe that will be a plus.

Figure if I'm going to pull it out, I might as well have everything I need handy. Looks like some HICAS hoses so maybe seals there too? Not sure if there is anything else I should get before I start on the job.

Any tips and tricks I can get before doing this would be most appreciated from anyone who has done this.

Anyone know where I might get a seals kit for the 93TT? I'm not really sure of the part numbers either. Figure I'll try to save money by buying on Ebay but don't want those really crummy aftermarket parts.

Thanks very much


ThisIsSparTTa
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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ConceptZ among others should have all the seals you need. I don't think you'll be able to do much with the diff on the car. You don't need to drop the entire rear subframe. The differential can be removed on its own by 4 bolts hold it up, and 2 holding it in the back. Also have to remove the axle and driveshaft bolts. Also a great time to install new differential bushings as everyone's are pretty shot. Getting the diff down is pretty easy. Putting the differential back up is a 2 man job IMO. It's far too heavy and awkward to get it to manuever upwards correctly.

rightfoot
Posts: 43
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:15 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan TT.
Stage III Stillen Kit
(ECU, Jets, Exhaust, JW ECU)

Post

Thanks for the reply!

>The differential can be removed on its own by 4 bolts hold it up, and 2 holding it in the back.

I was looking at it closer yesterday and you are right, it doesn't look like the sub frame needs to be pulled. Looks like the exhaust at least from the cats back. I thought I would have to disconnect the HICAS but that too looks like if you disconnect it from the wheels, then you could pull it back and tie it out of the way.

>Also have to remove the axle and driveshaft bolts.

And these are the side connections right? Looking at those and trying to prepare, I could not tell if there are any gaskets or anything that will need to be replaced when bolting those back up.

>Also a great time to install new differential bushings as everyone's are pretty shot.

So, I'm looking at diff bushings, front, rear and two side seals right? Anything else I should have handy? Exhaust washers, stuff like that?

ThisIsSparTTa
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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There are no seals/gaskets between the diff and the 2 axles or the driveshaft, so you're good there. A set like this will cover the rear and front bushings: https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/de ... php?II=583 . There's only 4 bushings total, 2 of them are actually on the subframe, and 2 on the diff. They can all be done without special tools: http://www.yugobernie.com/movies/images ... nstall.pdf . You're right on removing at least part of the exhaust. My midpipes and test pipes were already out, and I was able to deal with the diff just by moving around the catback. You could do it the other way. Unbolting the axles and driveshaft just requires a couple of 14mm sockets or wrenches. Ratcheting wrenches are easier to deal with. I think the other diff bolts are 17 and 19mm. Also, you will have to unhook the ABS sensor wiring, and unbolt 2 10mm bolts from the subframe, but this is pretty easy. Otherwise, I'm not sure which seals on the actual diff you think you need to replace as I didn't have to deal with that. When its all done, you'll want some Redline 75W-90 fluid to put back in there.

rightfoot
Posts: 43
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:15 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan TT.
Stage III Stillen Kit
(ECU, Jets, Exhaust, JW ECU)

Post

>A set like this will cover the rear and front bushings

Oh, I thought someone said you don't have to pull the sub-frame out. Funny thing is that I bought a full bushings set for this car a few years back so have all of these handy. Guessing it's easier to get at the sub-frame ones while the diff is out?

>Unbolting the axles and driveshaft just requires a couple of 14mm sockets or wrenches.

Wait now. Can you confirm something for me before I break something. You mention 14mm sockets for the driveshaft yet mine has 6 or 8 hex head bolts into the diff. Are you saying disconnect the four bolts at the other end of the drive shaft and that short section comes down with the diff?

I ask because those hex head bolts are feeling like they want to break on me.

>Otherwise, I'm not sure which seals on the actual diff you think you need to replace as
>I didn't have to deal with that.

It looks like there is a small leak toward the front as well so I figured I would replace any seals and bushings while I've got this out. I've not confirmed where any others are, I just assumed. I know there are some on the axle sides however.

rightfoot
Posts: 43
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:15 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan TT.
Stage III Stillen Kit
(ECU, Jets, Exhaust, JW ECU)

Post

Finally got it out by disconnecting the main bolts on the sway bar, loosening the smaller nuts all the way down but leaving the bar in place.

As for the seals, here is someone's article about their doing the job. Seem to be multiple seals.

http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/differe ... _seals.htm

ThisIsSparTTa
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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The 4 diff bushings don't require subframe to be dropped per the Bernie guide. The TT does use hex heads. My now NA had regular heads. I didn't have to drop the sway bar, but it's the skinny NA for now.

rightfoot
Posts: 43
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:15 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan TT.
Stage III Stillen Kit
(ECU, Jets, Exhaust, JW ECU)

Post

I dripped everything, the diff then the sub-frame. I've been trying to figure out how to remove the sub-frame bushings since the thing has been out. No luck yet even after building a couple of contraptions. Since I am doing all of the bushings on the car, I've decided to buy a decent bushing tool but I have yet to figure out where and what to buy.

What an incredible pain this job is.

ThisIsSparTTa
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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For subframe bushings, if you buy new sleeves, you can cut outward. Otherwise you have to try to burn them. Pretty much requires a shop with the right tools to do it properly. People have spent days and not been successful. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/de ... hp?II=3145

Another tip, put the diff back in while the subframe is out. Its a huge PITA trying to put it up when its in the car.

rightfoot
Posts: 43
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:15 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan TT.
Stage III Stillen Kit
(ECU, Jets, Exhaust, JW ECU)

Post

Not really sure how to update since the job is still not finished but then I've only been spending an hour here, an hour there on it. I pulled the diff out then took the sub-frame down. Had to build my own puller since I could not find ANY info on what I would need to do the job. Totally wanted to buy the right tool but could never confirm what I needed.

One pulled out perfectly the other three did not. #2 and #3 each left their outer inserts inside and #4 basically just broke apart leaving much of it inside the container. I've had to use countless tools including chisels and an air chisel and have #2 and #3 done and will tackle #4 soon.

Unreal how hard this job is when you don't have the right tools. You might luck out and get it all easily but there is a high chance things will simply be painful. You chisel and cut and snip and work the old inserts out and then you stare at the remaining pieces wondering why you took this stupid job on at all.

After all this, I have yet to even tackle any of the other bushings but I will be replacing every single one. Anyhow, this is my update and here are some images of the tool and other stuff.

Guess I can't upload images and don't have time to load them on some other site. Anyhow, have fun, it's a heck of a job.


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