do i need a new brake booster?

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shooty
Posts: 20
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 9:02 am

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s13 non abs m/tgot new pads rotors and lines.as far as i no i did the install correctly and blead system very wellnoticed fluid drippings from where MC connects to booster the next morning with considerable drop in fluid lvlthe 2 bolts holding them together seemed loose so i tightened themreblead lines (not thorough just to see if leak would stop)cleaned area and used paper towels to find leakit is still leaking around the same area but very minutelyim sure i'll need a rebuild kit at least for mcnow the brake booster part...there is fresh fluid that i can wipe off from the bottom of the booster close to the firewall at the lip of it (inside of it aswell)the booster itself works fine to be sure i did fsm inspectioni cleaned area a couple times and took car out afterwordsbesides petel being lil mushy from air, brakes work welldoes this seem like the fluid is inside the booster and leaking out or did it somehow end up there?also should i rebuild or get a new mc?btw after i tightened the bolts the brake lvl is NOT dropping (cant notice diff in 1.5 days of casual driving)thanx



bangstanger
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:23 pm
Car: 91 240SX Hatch

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It sounds like you have a leaking MC where the seal is that the pushrod connects to...if that is the case then the fluid in the booster is just what leaked into it...I would say get a new MC and just clean the area and booster really well...dont forget to bench bleed the MC first and save a hours worth of OTC bleeding....

that would also explain why when you tightened the bolts the leaking outside stopped..it was all going into the booster...be careful ya know brake fluid breaks down paint..that why you can see old boosters that are supposed to be black all bubbled and peeling or rusted under the MC...

hope this helps ya..Carl

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benemorius
Posts: 1937
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:39 pm
Car: s13, s13, eg, e36

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Yeah. Master cylinder needs to be replaced. Forget the rebuild kit. A rebuilt one should be about the same price. (don't quote me though)

While you're doing the master cylinder, I'd take out the booster and shake it around and listen to see if it is full of fluid. If so- drain it all out, re-install it, see if it works well, then replace it in a few months when the residual fluid finally gets to the seals.

You could go ahead and replace them both now, but with the booster costing around $80 (again- no quoting please) I'd hold off until it actually goes south.

Whatever the case - it's up to you.

95 red 240
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 5:54 pm

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hey what is bench bleeding the master cylinder? about to replace mine and no nothing about it. help please.!

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benemorius
Posts: 1937
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:39 pm
Car: s13, s13, eg, e36

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I promise you'll find the info you need if you use the forum search.

And I don't mean to be cruel - I haven't the time to explain it right now, and even if I did I would encourage you to search anyway so that you woluld have input from several people rather than just trusting one person's word.

bangstanger
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 4:23 pm
Car: 91 240SX Hatch

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I agree...search to find out about it...and if that doesnt work just let us know...I will be happy to explain it.

shooty
Posts: 20
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 9:02 am

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95 red 240 wrote:hey what is bench bleeding the master cylinder? about to replace mine and no nothing about it. help please.!
go here http://www.valvoline.com/carca...cid=9

btw i got a rebuilt mc at kragen for 85$ (ill get 30 back when i return mine)going to start replacing it today thanx guys!


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