Do coilovers destroy tie rods?

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SR24DET
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I noticed that one of my tie rods was going bad so i replaced it. After words i checked both tie rods and they were good. The other day i was at a car shop talking with a mechanic and he looked at my ride and told me that my coilovers were destroying my tierods. He told me that the tie rod cant be angeling up or down but they must be perfectly level or they will wear out fast. I went home and checked and they already have a little play, i replaced my tierod only 3 weeks ago?! Was he right, do i have to take out my steering rack and try and custom fab it up higher so it sits level or is there an aftermarket tie rod that is much stronger and i wont need to worry about this. If its true why havent i heard of this before?


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brndck
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first off, you should buy some ends like thesehttp://www.more-japan.com/Kaza....html as i understand it, when you lower a car, the angle that is put on the tie rod ends does create not only more strain on them, but also creates/exacerbates what is called "bump steer", which is bad. read this article to understand whyhttp://www.sportcompactcarweb.....htmli've never heard of it taking out ends in just a few weeks, usually its a few months. but i have no iidea how you drive.

yokota180sx
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yeah when you lower your car alot, the angle from the Knuckle to the tie rod is increased, thus puting more stress on the joint.

there are a few ways to fix thisone, chenge the knuckle to one by a different company, there are 7 or 8 placesor twochange to tie rod ends and tie rods which actually space the tie rod end down, alowing it not to bing as bad

AceInhole
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yokota180sx wrote:yeah when you lower your car alot, the angle from the Knuckle to the tie rod is increased, thus puting more stress on the joint.

there are a few ways to fix thisone, chenge the knuckle to one by a different company, there are 7 or 8 places
I hadn't seen any aftermarket knuckles for the s-chassis stateside. There's a few weld-in adaptor kits in japan.... got any links to aftermarket spindles?

Quote »or twochange to tie rod ends and tie rods which actually space the tie rod end down, alowing it not to bing as bad[/quote]I'd be wary of doing so on a street car, as every kit I've seen comes with open faced rod-ends. At the very least, use decent quality heims and full boots, and I'd honestly recommend doing a grease fill regardless of what type of rod end you use, as the grease itself acts as both a lubricant and internal barrier.

I think the simplest solution would be: don't over-lower your car.

yokota180sx
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AceInhole wrote:I hadn't seen any aftermarket knuckles for the s-chassis stateside. There's a few weld-in adaptor kits in japan.... got any links to aftermarket spindles?

I'd be wary of doing so on a street car, as every kit I've seen comes with open faced rod-ends. At the very least, use decent quality heims and full boots, and I'd honestly recommend doing a grease fill regardless of what type of rod end you use, as the grease itself acts as both a lubricant and internal barrier.

I think the simplest solution would be: don't over-lower your car.
ask and you shall recievefrom this months doriten (drift tengoku for others)freshly scanned for you mr Ace!


yokota180sx
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AceInhole wrote:
I'd be wary of doing so on a street car, as every kit I've seen comes with open faced rod-ends. At the very least, use decent quality heims and full boots, and I'd honestly recommend doing a grease fill regardless of what type of rod end you use, as the grease itself acts as both a lubricant and internal barrier.

I think the simplest solution would be: don't over-lower your car.
but yes, of course!always use a boot ad tons of grease if you can. if not, just have a spare set laying around

94_240sx
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I have these on my car. There are 2 spacers, small and large. You can put small, large or both to correct bump steer depends on how much you lowered your car. With these and new or Nismo steering rack bushings, handling is more sharp.


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adrianfromthecastle
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yokota180sx wrote:
oh sh1t! those are doope... where and how much yo?

94_240sx
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I think what yokota posted are modified stock knuckels just like this one. I could be wrong though. If you can get this little piece, you can weld it on, grind and powder coat it. There are 1 and 2-hole versions.



On the other hand, this knuckle is made from scratch.
Modified by 94_240sx at 2:22 PM 10/27/2007

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adrianfromthecastle
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94_240sx wrote:I think what yokota posted are modified stock knuckels just like this one. I could be wrong though. If you can get this little piece, you can weld it on, grind and powder coat it. There are 1 and 2-hole versions.



On the other hand, this knuckle is made from scratch.
dam.. I'm at work and photobucket is blocked... I cant see any of the dam pix your posting dude, and its killing me, lol

yokota180sx
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the knuckles are probobally just modified by the company, but still, they are aftermarket optionsthe HEY MAN knuckles i can get, they are made by a guy named SHinji, a d1 driver that has a shop by wher ei live at.

AceInhole
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yokota180sx wrote:the knuckles are probobally just modified by the company, but still, they are aftermarket optionsthe HEY MAN knuckles i can get, they are made by a guy named SHinji, a d1 driver that has a shop by wher ei live at.
Yea it looks like all the knuckles are just modified stock knuckles, besides the ones made from welded bar stock. The rears look pretty easy to do, but I'd wonder what they used for the axle up front. I've always wondered how much it'd cost to set up the casting for custom knuckles. I talked to Mark Daddio (driver of the AMS time attack Evo) about it once and supposedly there was a company that could laser scan stuff into CAD, modify it slightly, and remake it in titanium. I'm not sure if he ever actually went through with it, though.

SR24DET
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Besides that being very neat, do you have any idea of the cost to do that. The only people that could afford that are the people with a limitless budget. I work with cad for a living and wow would that be expensive. Still a neat fact.


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