I'm in the same boat as well. Sounds just like my car except I'm running a sr t25 7psi with stock injectors. Next build I'll be doing the drainback mod on the head like this one.Hillkill wrote:Does anyone else here have a problem with blowby out the exhaust cam at sustained high rpm? I have a catch can routed in between the exhaust cover vent and the intake piping. But say during one drift run and a decent 30 second burnout I fill my catch can with the 10w40 royal purps. Or if it was say 3 hard drift runs I would have the same outcome. It just sucks to have to let it cool down and then recycle the oil from the catch can just to do the same thing in 3-4 more runs. I'm running stock boost on a s15 spec R with 550's
If your engine is spitting-up that much oil, then your bottom end is probably at it's service limit. And even it is a rebuilt engine, your clearances are probably at their limit. I have a customer that have sustained 30psi of boost with 3 people in his car and still haven't put out that much oil. Whereas in my own case, I have run my car hard against various cars over a 100 mile stretch, got two races at the track in which I won both, and repeated the same trek back 100 miles with even more abuse and still didn't reach a quart of spit-up. Bottom line is, your engine is worn and routing the oil from the head is masking the problem. But if you can't afford to rebuild, it is your car and you are entitled to do whatever you think is necessary. Good luck!Hillkill wrote:Does anyone else here have a problem with blowby out the exhaust cam at sustained high rpm? I have a catch can routed in between the exhaust cover vent and the intake piping. But say during one drift run and a decent 30 second burnout I fill my catch can with the 10w40 royal purps. Or if it was say 3 hard drift runs I would have the same outcome. It just sucks to have to let it cool down and then recycle the oil from the catch can just to do the same thing in 3-4 more runs. I'm running stock boost on a s15 spec R with 550's
intresting...were do u run the linesanumeric wrote:
I'm in the same boat as well. Sounds just like my car except I'm running a sr t25 7psi with stock injectors. Next build I'll be doing the drainback mod on the head like this one.
You've got a problem with something! Even my mitsubishi engine with 120, 90, 90, 120 still doesn't puke-up oil and that's under 15psi of boost and over 7000rpm dumps betweeen 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. I'm building CA18 #25 for one of our members and I'll be damned after 24 successful builds that this one will be the one that spits-up oil. You say clearances were perfect, but nothing is perfect. Could be the rings you chose, maybe they were put on upside down or your bore specs are out of limit in the lower portion of the cylinders. There's no mystery to this motor. It's either built right or built with issues and your is no exception to the rule as it shouldn't be spitting-up oil if it was just built and everything was within service limits. Bottom line is that something went wrong with the build???????????sydwayz wrote:fresh rebuild perfect clearances less 2000 miles on the motor and mine spits a quart every pull i make after 5500. took the head back off had a smaller oil restrictor made put that in and still does it. now im installing an evac system on my car this week. I SWEAR ON MY LIFE THAT I WILL SOLVE THIS PROBLEM FOR EVERYONE
Yeah, you need to boot up MS Paint and get busy.float_6969 wrote:The other idea I have is to change how the system works all together, but IDK how to explain it without drawing some sort of picture.
^ I am a little confused about this. So the idea is that all of the gases with blow-by oil that would normally drift up and out of the valve cover vents gets pulled down into the oil pan by vacuum, and then back out and over through a catch can? Seems like you would have more problems of oil staying in the head with this during throttle let-off. If you just unhooked the factory line that sends the crankcase gases to the head, the one you mentioned was undersized and easily damaged, and teed one valve cover line to it together with another line coming off to connect to the other valve cover, with a breather on that cover, then there should be much more air exiting the bottom end ALL of the time. I would love nothing more than to never see oil in the intake side of my engine bay parts again.float_6969 wrote:OK fine...
Click it to make it bigger;
For that exact setup, yes. You might be able to plumb the valve covers into cold pipe/hot pipe, but IDK if that would pressurize the crankcase or not. I would think that it would.Ca_Silvia wrote:You have to be running a MAP sensor for that idea to work right Float?