Z32 DIY: How to run your high and low beams together!

I hope this writeup helps someone and if you need any help or have questions feel free to leave comments and I can get those answered for you.

Great write up! Seems really easy to follow!

Thanks its pretty easy, one splice and ground it then you are done... Nothing to it.

Crappy crackberry pics but it helps give the idea what it looks like:Low only HighwayLow and High HighwayLow only 20ft away wallLow/High 20ft away wallLow only 5ft away wallLow/High 5ft away wallLow onlyLow/HighLow/High closeupFound one with my HID's low only sorry no wall shots with highs.50ft away Low only50ft away Low/High

This should give you an idea...

Modified by z32pilot62 at 7:29 PM 1/4/2010
Modified by z32pilot62 at 8:04 PM 1/4/2010

great write up. i have a question. if i wanted to have my high beams and low beams on permanently, but without having to have my turn signal pushed in for the brights, how would i go about doing that? in other words, high and low beams by only turning on the headlight switch. i have LED's in my brights so i'm not going to be blinding anybody, it's mostly just for looks.

would i just splice hot and ground from high beams into the low beam wires?

bash on my rice-ness if you feel the need haha.

Are your led's in place of the stock bulb or are they added into the housing? If they are added I would just run a new line with a fuse in the middle and a switch hidden somewhere inside so you still have the functionality of your lights. Something like this would be good:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

If not idk exactly how you would go about that for sure. I can do some looking around and figure something out but if all else fails do the same thing anyway so you dont put stress on the system. In theory though if you would just ground the ground on the high beam side it might yield the same results as doing so on the low side. Just a thought see if it works but make sure you're positive you have the ground before you ground the wire and turn the lights on...

they are 9005 style bulbs with leds. so it's just plugged right in to where my regular halogen high beam 9005's went.

This is now an article

Does this need to be done on Both Right and Left Headlight Connectors or just one side to keep the Low Beams on when you click on the High Beams ? I would think - Both Sides, but you tell me before I hack the LED extensions

First,

I would like to Thank z32pilot62 for pinging my curiosity for what the factory should have engineered the wiring to do from the gitgo - Allow the Low Beams to remain on with the High Beams on -

So, I did a little research on the different methods to achieve this after upgrading to

https://headlightrevolution.com/9006-hb ... g-ultra-2/

GTR Ultra-2 Low/High LED's.

These LED Bulbs are arguably the "best of the best" available at this time (I also tried MoriMoto LED Bulbs which are very very good as well) and should be almost illegal for their incredibly bright white light output - especially through the fisheye projector lenses - a "must-do" for any enthusiast wanting to upgrade their Z lighting -


Not wanting to hack any part of my pristine '96 Z32 s/n 258/300 (just turned 19,045 miles) I created a simple yet "OEM" looking wiring connector set which goes in-line between the OE Low Beam Head Light Plug and the GTR Ultra-2 pig-tail off the it's controller box.



You only need to do one side to operate both lights - I placed mine on the drivers side - close to the electrical fuse/relay box to keep the current flow over as short distance as possible using 18ga. wire and insulated sheathing.

What can I say --- works GR8 !

Only one side needs to be done --- The Z's OEM Low/High Headlight Relay controls both sides. Re-read the original post and photo diagram link from z32pilot62 ---

I installed my custom "jumper/connector" on the Driver Side as close to the controlling relay as possible to keep the high current flow of potentially both sides (All 4 LED Blades !) through the shortest possible run of wire. I left them all on for about 15 minutes (on the battery) and didn't detect any hot spots with an InfraRed Thermometer other than the LED controller box heat sinks which always get very warm. Did *not* change any Fuses to a higher Amperage either and do not recommend you do this to compensate for bad wiring.....