Hey all. New to the site. Used the forum to troubleshoot and fix a crap load of issues I was having with my recently purchased '01 Pathy. Recently I turned to the forum to see how to replace a squeaky idler pulley and found instructions, but no solid DIY to show the small details. Yes...it's a pretty easy DIY for a competent shade tree mechanic like most of us, but I saw some folks requesting pictures and explanations and figured I'd snap a few photos and try to give back a little to the good folks here. So, without further blabbering:

How to replace both serpentine belts and both idler pulleys

Let me know if there's anything I could explain better or anything I missed.

...yes I see the oil, fixed both a valve cover leak and the oil cooler gaskets before this task. Then the MAF, coils and plugs, fuel filter, IACV, sway bar end links, O2 sensor, cats, heat shield rattle and sunroof....I hate this POS.

This will surely help push more than one owner into DIY territory. Thanks!

I don't believe you when you say this truck is a POS, otherwise you wouldn't put in the time and effort to make this excellent write-up happen.

Thanks rgk.

Haha I bought it for the lady. She doesn't like it so now I'm just fixing it up so I can actually make my money invested back out of it.

I dislike it in general because $800 worth of parts and hours of my time, and the damn thing still has the same 3 OBD codes I bought it with. Now I have to chase down a vacuum leak and random misfire....I can't find the vacuum leak so I'm going to remove, clean and install new o-rings on the fuel injectors to see if that fixes both issues. Then I still have to figure out a potential grounding issue because the brand new 02 sensor is still telling me it's not happy.

So yeah, I'm just upset because it's not a vehicle we're using so I want to be done with it and see it sold

Which engine are you running? What codes do you have?

The 3.5 L V6...still showing:

P0140 - Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2
P0505 - Idle Speed Control Solenoid Valve
P1320 - Ignition Signal Primary

IACV was replaced with OE unit. Idle relearn was done but it still wants to hun around 1,200-1,500 RPM sometimes. ECU checks out and didn't burn up.

Found a loose ground on the exhaust post-cat on bank 2, but the exhaust still shows good/no resistance to body ground.

Wow, excellent photos and a great writeup! We'll be sad to see you go

Thanks, Atraudes. If you guys ever find yourselves owning any variety of BMW then track me down. I'm one of those weird BMW fanboys and after 9 years, 8 different ones (from classic to new) and many, many....MANY hours of wrenching and fixing, I've acquired a fair bit of the first tip of the proverbial iceberg of knowledge on how to keep them somewhat dependable

That said, if you're in the market for a BMW and consider yourself one to DIY versus visiting the stealership; I'd highly recommend only buying 2004-2006 or older BMWs (depending on the chasis). Anything never is a pain in the a** and almost dominated by computers to the point you have to take it in.

I actually may be one day, and that's exactly what I was going to ask. My wife's a huge fan and I want to get her one I can fix up on the side, but was afraid to since the newer systems require specialized tools. I'll give her those years and see what she comes back with

That's funny, we are currently looking to replace the Pathy with a X3 for the mrs. She's convinced it's the perfect ride height, steering input (not too much easy power steering, as she claims the Pathy has) and a good solid feeling that makes her feel safe.

I tried PMing you so I could offer my number, but I guess I'm too new. If you care to, feel free to reach out to me and I'll happily offer some tips from my experience.

In general, BMWs are good cars. But they do like their preventative maintenance. It's just like clockwork: ever 80k miles you should replace the entire cooling system. (Brittle-aged plastic expansion tanks, radiator end caps, etc plus an aluminum engine plus a temp gauge that buffers = overheating without much notice and a very warped, inrepairable block and head).

They also eat suspension bushings, tires in 25k due to the -3 camber in the rear on each one.

The engines, alternators, rear ends, axles, joints, wiring, hinges, etc etc are usually great and very reliable. Overall, I find them greatly supported by the online community, parts suppliers and clubs like BMW CCA (car club of America). A 10mm socket and a Phillips will fix most things and most of the car comes apart like it was meant to be worked on (which I feel is intuitive to being a German engineered machine).

Ownership is bittersweet...but always worth it in the end. Very enjoyable drivers that are safe.

There more I could tell you about value and depreciation. Aka...100k BMWs or 10-12k dollar ones are your best bet for value. Buy a 20-30k one and you're going to eat a lot of depreciation....a lot. I bought two newer ones at one time and one lost 13k worth of value in just 6 months. And that was after the $6k clutch and $4k in turbo turbo work I had to put into it at 30k miles. But I've owned 6-7 year old ones where ive driven them for a year or two and sold them for the same $12-14k I paid for them. So it's worth buying older ones and giving them some time, love and a little money

Jman, spectacular work - I'll be converting this into a standalone article for the archives.

Sure wish we could keep you around - Lots of great information and education in just 7 posts!

Sounds good Hitman This forum has cut my headaches in half when working on our Pathy so I'm happy to try to contribute some back.

I'll be here for a little bit, still working out the last few issues on the thing. Just an FYI, I purchased 6 new Hiatchi coil packs from AM Autoparts, installed them with the recommended RGK spark plugs and am still getting the P1320 'random misfire'. Contacted AM Autoparts and they responded quickly and nicely and offered me either a replacement on the coil packs or a return (which was a nice surprise since they knew I had already installed the coils, and it's rare that companies take returns on electrical parts). So, since they were so open to working with me and mentioned their returns/complaints on the coil packs were so low, I decided to go for a new set from them and am waiting to install those and see if that corrects the P1320.

If it does, I'll have 6 coil packs that seemingly work fine (not notable misfire) but throw a code still...if someone is struggling financially and needs a set, just PM me and we'll work it out.

The O2 sensors burning out are known problem -- Nissan has a TSB for a re-flash of the computer so the heaters are not on all the time. Check the clamps on the top of the engine for the small hoses -- they can be loose the hoses can crack .. and cause idle issues.

Just did my 02 belts and an alternator as well. I have had thee 02's. I bought one new ... the other two preowned and both had squeaking aftermarket belts. The OE belts from an online dealer are $36.37 and 21.02 for other DIY reference. The OE belts are better IMO

You have a lot of oil on the engine? The oil filter housing has an o ring that often leaks and can make a mess down there

yeldogt wrote:The O2 sensors burning out are known problem -- Nissan has a TSB for a re-flash of the computer so the heaters are not on all the time. Check the clamps on the top of the engine for the small hoses -- they can be loose the hoses can crack .. and cause idle issues.

Just did my 02 belts and an alternator as well. I have had thee 02's. I bought one new ... the other two preowned and both had squeaking aftermarket belts. The OE belts from an online dealer are $36.37 and 21.02 for other DIY reference. The OE belts are better IMO

You have a lot of oil on the engine? The oil filter housing has an o ring that often leaks and can make a mess down there

Hey Yeldogt,

Yeah I've read about that TSB but at this point, I'm just getting it ready to sell so not going to bother taking it in for a flash.

I'll take another look up top at those hoses, did hunt for vacuum leaks and didn't get a hit on any of those hoses, but that's not always 100%. That said, based on the check engine codes, I just bought a new IACV (OE) a new TPS/Idle sensor and am going to have to wait for better weather to take the ECM out to check for burnt chips (though I don't smell any signs of it being fried, but wanna visually confirm before doing the IACV.

So far, the Goodyear belts are quite and going good.

MOST of that oil was from the oil cooler o-rings. It was quite literally pissing out oil. Since replacing those two o-rings (and with the splash guard removed) I've yet to notice any additional drips of oil where she parks. Well....that a lie, but it's so stinking little that drips and so far in between drips that I assume it's the residual oil cooler mess being brought down by gravity.

The whole plan is to get it in good enough shape that a dealership will accept it as a trade without busting our wallet too bad, then just trade it in and get her what she wants. Between my car that needs some maintenance, a Jeep we just bought that needs work, a cafe racer project I just bought that needs work and this thing...I'm just too over extended to deal with the ongoing list it's making for me.

Thanks for the pics man!☺ jmanscotch
I am about to tackle a bolt replacement and have to ask if I need to take the bracket off to put the new bolt. / I broke the bolt by not loosening the pulley center bolt. /

AC BELT
Does the ADJUSTING bolt just slide off the bracket once loosened? LOOKING LIKE I MUST JUST CUT THE BELT TO LOOSEN TENSION.....

I have 2001 Pathfinder that I need to replace both Serpentine and AC belts.
To remove and install new belt, do I have to remove FAN?
I haven't try to remove the belt yet but Fan is really big, and wondering if I can pull out the belt from fan.
Can someone please explain to me whether I need to remove the fan?

TIA

No need to remove the fan. Just work the belt over the fan blades one blade at a time until you get it out.

Polaris: 4xq is right (sorry I couldn't PM you back, I'm too new).

Once you have the belt off the pulleys, there enough slack to get it out and over the fan blades.

Also a little update: sent my ECM in for repair. I used a group that did it for $82 instead of the $200+ everyone else does, so I'll get it reinstalled this week and offer feedback on how the company did and let you know if it works.

Thank you guys. I will try it tomorrow morning. Thank you for a quick reply.

So, a little update: SECOND new IACV installed. ECM 'repaired' by myairbags.com ($82 for repair through eBay).

First impression: Pathy no longer stalls right after starting but as expected, the idle is high and erratic now (typical result of removing ECM and battery for a week, it needs to relearn idle).

So, I took it to the dealership yesterday to do the idle relearn and they couldn't get it to take. They did a diagnosis and determined my ECM is still bad Quote: $1,210 for brand new ECM with labor and reprogramming included.

Next step: emailed myairbags.com and complained about the issue. Seeking reimbursement. Then I'll send the ECM to the Medics or similar for ~$250 and see what happens. Wish me luck!

yngw13 wrote:Thanks for the pics man!☺ jmanscotch
I am about to tackle a bolt replacement and have to ask if I need to take the bracket off to put the new bolt. / I broke the bolt by not loosening the pulley center bolt. /

AC BELT
Does the ADJUSTING bolt just slide off the bracket once loosened? LOOKING LIKE I MUST JUST CUT THE BELT TO LOOSEN TENSION.....

Hey, sorry I just saw this post.

I don't *think* you'd need to remove the bracket, but that's just based on what I recall seeing while in there. My best guess is that if you remove the pulley, then the center bolt that held the pulley on can be pushed backwards out of the bracket and let the adjusting assembly to fall away from the bracket.

Let us know if you've done this already or once you have so we all know!

Figured I'd drop back in an offer yet another update.

Myairbags.com gave me a full refund (minus my shipping cost) which was a nice jesture, no hassle, just emailed them and shortly after a refund was issued.

Contacted CircuitBoardMedics about a repair and they refused to even touch the ECU after Myairbags has 'repaired' it. So, purchased a refurbished unit from CBM ($400) and sent them my old ECU so they could transfer over the security settings to the new unit and make it plug-n-play for me.

I was very happy with my experience with CBM, shipped quickly, great communication (they spent time talking me through their reasonings for things and didn't just urge me to buy their service without knowledge).

Got the replacement ECU installed and it ran great (idled high) and all keys, etc worked out of the box as promised. Took it to the dealership for an idle relearn and....NO FREAKING DICE. At this point, I adjusted the throttle cable down to bring idle under 1K RPM and the Pathy runs perfect. Upon first startup, it idles at 2K RPM for a few seconds and then starts to idle down to under 1K RPM and that is as good as it's going to get for the fact that I'm just done screwing with this stupid truck.

So anyways, I recommend CBM and it seem even myairbags.com MAY have done a good repair in the first place, there's just other factors not letting my Pathy accept the idle learn. Dealership is no longer helpful. It runs great, I'll live with it. Only code it showing in OBD is the P1320 'random misfire' and refuses to identify a single or even multiple cylinders giving the issue. So with new spark plugs, second set of new coil packs and confirmed fuel flow through each injector...I'm just going to ignore the alleged 'misfire' and sell the damn thing on.

Thanks everyone for the info I've received here. I know this DIY thread got off topic but I'm hoping maybe the info contained here will pop up when someone searches for their problem and may offer some help even if not in a dedicated thread.

Take care,
Jake

Awesome articles with pictures! Just a quick question hopefully..

When installing the pulley it mentioned "Keep center nut slightly loose while tightening the tension adjusting bolt". Can you clarify this step a little more because I think this may be where I messed up lol

There is about a 1 inch ridge where the pulley can be flush against the top of the ridge or flush on the bottom for the alternator/ps side. I tightened it flush on the top so the belt could be a little tighter, then I would adjust the tension bolt. Problem is that belt keeps screeching/chirping for about a minute when car is turned on before going away so perhaps that's not the right way.

Thanks guys for your help!

jmanscotch wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 16, 2015 12:12 pm

Hey all. New to the site. Used the forum to troubleshoot and fix a crap load of issues I was having with my recently purchased '01 Pathy. Recently I turned to the forum to see how to replace a squeaky idler pulley and found instructions, but no solid DIY to show the small details. Yes...it's a pretty easy DIY for a competent shade tree mechanic like most of us, but I saw some folks requesting pictures and explanations and figured I'd snap a few photos and try to give back a little to the good folks here. So, without further blabbering:
...

jamesmorgan12345 wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 19, 2017 1:04 pm

Awesome articles with pictures! Just a couple of questions please..

Which gatorback belt matches with the alternator/ps belt? the 4040372 or 4060465?

When installing the pulley it mentioned "Keep center nut slightly loose while tightening the tension adjusting bolt". Can you clarify this step a little more because I think this may be where I messed up lol

There is about a 1 inch ridge where the pulley can be flush against the top of the ridge or flush on the bottom for the alternator/ps side. I tightened it flush on the top so the belt could be a little tighter, then I would adjust the tension bolt. Problem is that belt keeps screeching/chirping for about a minute when car is turned on before going away so perhaps that's not the right way.

Thanks guys for your help!

This was nearly 3 years ago, unfortunately I don’t recall which belt is which. From the pictures, looks like one belt had 6 ribs and the other only has 4, so it’d be easy enough to confirm your replacement belt (which it sounds like you already have) matches the alternator/PS one or make sure it doesnt have the same number of ribs as the other belt. If the match, one is the wrong one.

In the diagram below, there’s two red arrows pointing to nuts. The top one, in the center of the pulley, is the one to keep loose while you adjust tension with the bottom one. Once tension is set, tighten the top one down.

I had purchased a Dayco belt but keep getting some periodic squealing, so I'm going to try the gatorbelt like your and others recommended.

Thanks for your help with the idle pulley issues; Happy holidays everyone!

Hey J - Better late than never, but you're on the homepage!

@jmanscotch Hi All - I want to replace my own drive belts (150k miles on my 2001 qx4), was last done at 80k miles. i looked at that link that jmanscotch provided which talks about pictures but there are no pictures... did stuff get deleted. i need all the help i can get

I good repair manual is what you need. The factory service manuals at NICOclub are a great resource.
https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals
I also use a Haynes Repair Manual for my '02 Pathfinder. https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Frontier- ... 1563926105 There are not many 3rd party, vehicle specific, manuals for the Infiniti lineup and none I am aware of for the QX4 but the Haynes manual I use would be very useful to you for many DIY tasks on your QX4, like changing the drive belts and many more basic and in depth tasks for our R50 models which have many identical features. There is much you can learn, and time/money you will save, from the illustrated, step by step, how-to instructions.