DIY - basic question...

[ugharin]

Hi,Ive done some research and couldnt find the info so am asking here....

Im looking to do some basic work on my QX4 and am a newbie. Atleast practically speaking. Im only theoretically inclined.

Am looking to change all fluids and filters and rotate tires.

The GVWR is 5050 lbs. I believe thats the overall weight of the vehicle including passengers, gas, cargo etc. So how much would the weight of the vehicle be without the above?

Specifically, I have a 2 ton floor jack and 2 ton jack stands. Will those be enough for my tire rotation, fuild changes etc?

HOw about some 6 ton 'bottle' jacks? Ive never used them before but they are a lot cheaper. Are they safe and good enough? Will they fit under the Qs lift points - diff., frame etc?

I quickly measured the clearance under the running boards and its approx 13inches. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On another topic, I am also looking to do the loctite on power valve screws, just to be safe, but cant find the gaskets.Oreilys - dont have and cant order themAutozone - "Advance auto - dont have but can order them. Would be around 30 bucks for all the gaskets. Too cheap?Nissan delearship - havent checked yet but I am guessing it would be very expensive. They quoted $500 plus to loctite the power valve screws!

Is there anywhere online that I could shop for parts for now and also in the future?

Thanks for the help.------------------------------------------------------------------------------ETA: On another topic again, does anyone have a the inside (behind coin tray) fuse panel diagram for the 00 and 02 QX4s? Ive searched the forum and the web but cant find them.


Modified by ugharin at 9:58 AM 1/27/2010

[Empty V]

I'm sure the bottle jacks and jack stands will work fine. I bought some used 9" ramps for super cheap not too long ago and they worked great for my fluid changes. They made the job much easier and I had no fear of the jack giving out or hitting it while sliding in and out from under the vehicle. Much easier and safer IMO.

Used:



Sanded Down







Like New



Billy

[ugharin]

Hey Billy,Thanks for the quick reply.

I actually came across one of your past posts during searches, where you mentioned with pics about the ramps. I did think about them since they are safer and more convinient.

But I was more interested in the jacks since;1) I would need them for rotating the tires as well)2) Portability. I would like to carry them in the vehicle all the time and it would be easier with the jacks. Especially the bottle jack.

Perhaps I could get the ramps and get the tire rotation and balancing done at walmart or something. I could be there while they are doing it to make sure they torque em all right. --------------------------------------

Could you let me know where I could get the following;1) Interior fuse panel diagrams - for both 00 and 02 QX4a2) Intake plenum gaskets (for the power valve screws thing)3) Websites in general where you guys shop for everything. 4) Ramps similar to the ones you got. I remember seeing them for like 50 bucks or something at autozone which didnt seem bad.

Also, will the 01 FSM do for the 02? I found the 00 an 01 here in the website.

[Densetsu]

You're right, the GVWR is the max weight capacity of a loaded vehicle... fuel, passengers, cargo, and trailer tongue weight. The curb weight is around 4400 lbs.

I would stay away from bottle jacks. They're cheap and portable, but with such a small footprint I've always felt they can tip over easily. I personally use a 2.5 ton floor jack. A 2-ton floor jack should also suffice, since you're not lifting the entire vehicle at once, you'll just be lifting one end and a lot of weight will be resting on the opposite axle.

A bad point about 2-ton (and 2.5-ton) jacks is that they're designed for cars. An SUV has more clearance, and by the time you get the jack up to the lift point on the QX4, the jack will almost be at full extension. I took a section of 2x4 and cut it into 3 squares, then screwed them together, to get an extra 4.5" of lift. 3-ton jacks will go higher, since they're made for trucks.

Jacks do take a bit more time than ramps, but they're more versatile. I just took on a mortgage last year so money was tight and a floor jack was more versatile than ramps. I'll probably buy/build ramps in the near future.

[ugharin]

You're right, the GVWR is the max weight capacity of a loaded vehicle... fuel, passengers, cargo, and trailer tongue weight. The curb weight is around 4400 lbs.

I would stay away from bottle jacks. They're cheap and portable, but with such a small footprint I've always felt they can tip over easily. I personally use a 2.5 ton floor jack. A 2-ton floor jack should also suffice, since you're not lifting the entire vehicle at once, you'll just be lifting one end and a lot of weight will be resting on the opposite axle.

A bad point about 2-ton (and 2.5-ton) jacks is that they're designed for cars. An SUV has more clearance, and by the time you get the jack up to the lift point on the QX4, the jack will almost be at full extension. I took a section of 2x4 and cut it into 3 squares, then screwed them together, to get an extra 4.5" of lift. 3-ton jacks will go higher, since they're made for trucks.

Jacks do take a bit more time than ramps, but they're more versatile. I just took on a mortgage last year so money was tight and a floor jack was more versatile than ramps. I'll probably buy/build ramps in the near future.

Thanks for the reply.

With a curb weight plus some of around 2.5 tons, seems like a 2 ton should suffice. I dont see a problem when lifting up the first half. But its the second half that I was concerned with as a lot of the weight, with the center of gravity would shift to the lifting end. But now, am a little more confident (based on your suggestion only )

So, since I already have these 2 ton jack/stands, I will make do with them rather than buy larger capacity ones. I now want the ramps as well and will get them as well as they are a lot more convinient and safer. Will only use the jacks when I have to replace/rotate tires. -------------------------------ETA: Curb weight of 4400 and GVWR of only 5050 lbs?

That makes around 600 lbs of permissible weight in the vehicle which isnt a whole lot! ..Hardly 3 people with a tank full of gas and no cargo!!

[Chuck Tribolet]

Why do you need to lift both ends at the same time? In fact, why do you needto lift it at all for fluid changes? Just wiggle under.

I used at 1.25 ton Hein-Werner O-boy jack for 30+ years, finally replaced it witha Sears 3-ton when the old jack was leaking and I couldn't find a rebuild kit.(since found a source and will rebuild it by and by).

Me, I don't rotate tires. They seem to all wear out at the same time anyway.
Modified by Chuck Tribolet at 7:46 AM 1/30/2010

[ugharin]

hmmm....I wanted to lift all four to rotate tires essentially. Weve got 4 vehicles 2 of which are QX4s and I plan to rotate them all periodically, and so thought, the jacks and 4 stands might be useful. I plan to balance, rotate and align mine specifically since its veering to the right while driving a little and also theres a very slight vibration in the steering at certain speeds.

For fluid changes, my impression was that lifting one end up would help drain more of the fluid out. And besides, its simply more convinient working in the extra space. . I plan to use ramps for this.

ETA: Off topic: BS/MS from Stanford is pretty great and congrats for that. I have a BS in Mech Engg although my posts may belie that fact. However, beng a mechanic is a different world altogether and doesnt compare and I am slowly learning.

I was half way through my MS in Industrial eng and didnt like anything other than QA and found myself more interested in computers so switched and started from scratch at a very mediocre school as I have no background. Hmm...would give up anything to get into stanford..except perhaps..my qx4.
Modified by ugharin at 9:25 PM 1/27/2010

[K03sport]

I rotate my tires one at a time. I remove the spare, then pcick a corner and go. I put the spare on the 1st wheel removed and begin the rotation process. I actually use the stock jack for this and put a piece of plywood underneath it for a more stable footing. It can be a bit slow, but doable, plus you can inspect your spare at the same time and make sure the spare lift chain is working properly.

The truck doesn't need to be on ramps for the fluid to drain. Sure, they will give you more space to get under the truck, but the incline isn't necessary for the oil to drain.

When I replaced my belts, I used some 2x8s to give a bit more height to the front. They were about 2 feet long. You can cut the leading edge at a 45* angle, but really isn't necessary. Easy on, easy off.

Pulling onto ramps always freaks me out. The fear of pulling to far forward I guess. For what it is worth, I have the Black Rhino ramps.

[Empty V]

Why do you need to lift both ends at the same time? In fact, why do you needto lift it at all for fluid changes? Just wiggle under.

The ramps helped out with my ATF change. It sent all the fluid towards the drain plug and gave me and about 6" of extra clearance plus the 1.75" OME lift.

Billy

[Empty V]

Pulling onto ramps always freaks me out. The fear of pulling to far forward I guess. For what it is worth, I have the Black Rhino ramps.

The freakiest park for me is actually the ramps slipping with the initial incline. I need to figure out how to stabilize them.

Billy

[Densetsu]

Pulling onto ramps always freaks me out. The fear of pulling to far forward I guess. For what it is worth, I have the Black Rhino ramps.

I did it four or five years ago with my last car, it wasn't that bad. One of the ramps pivoted, and that side of my car was resting on the incline part of the ramp. Easy enough to jack up and remove the ramps.

[Chuck Tribolet]

I was backing my 'vette onto a set of Rhino Ramps. On one side it spun thetire and melted the surface of the ramp, on the other side, the ramp slid on the concrete and shot under the 'vette. Fortunately, no damage.

So I'm not a big fan of Rhino Ramps.

I like the holes for traction on Empty V's ramps.

[K03sport]

I'll agree with you on the Rhino ramps lacking traction. Also, they are not the best thing to use on smooth garage floors either. IMO, they are best used on the rougher drive way pavement/asphalt

I've got a set of the yellow steel ramps...well, my brother has the set I used to have and they still seem to be working just fine.

The hardest part for me it carrying enough momentum to crest the incline part. Taking a "running" start helps, but then there is that whole lining up thing.

To me, one of those "portable" hydrolic vehicle lifts or a 2 post lift would be best, but the later is a bit pricey for a home install.

There are plenty of portable or moveable vehicle lifts out there, it just depends on what you want to spend and what you want to do with the lift.

I found one or two that can actually break down and fit into a trunk and one was even raised and lowered by a cordless drill. That was a drive on ramp and good for fluid changes and exhaust work.

I need to invent the ramp that only raises the car about 4" instead of the industry standard of 6-8. I guess some home builts using 2x8s could work.

edit: here is an option, but not exactly local unless you always have tea around 3...http://www.restorationramps.co.uk/. I'm sure there are similar in NA.
Modified by K03sport at 12:48 PM 1/30/2010

[01qwhite]

i have ramps they work great but now that i work at a shop i never use them anymore lol lifts are great