DIY 110 Amp Nissan Quest Alternator into KA24E - adapted from article

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Silvia007
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Unless my multimeter is caked, that's what it was reading, my idle is also a bit high at 1,500 rpms so that my be the case.

As for the pulley, not lining up, you're right, it took some grinding of the alternator for that to line up correctly.

All I did was set both alternators on their pulleys and measured how much needed to be grounded off of the Quest alternator, still a lot of cutting and welding of the top plate needed to be done. That metal bushing made up the difference of the grinding on the bottom mount. (if anyone knows what I'm talking about).



TheOne
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anybody know if a 95 1 will also work? the 1 that goes into another van, but is the same as the quest's 1?(both made by mitsubishi), it says its rated 110amps but i don't know if its the same fit.

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onosqv
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TheOne wrote:anybody know if a 95 1 will also work? the 1 that goes into another van, but is the same as the quest's 1?(both made by mitsubishi), it says its rated 110amps but i don't know if its the same fit.
Well, the alternator I got was listed for a few years, and for the Nissan Pathfinder too I thinkkkk. The only way to know is to check for it on autozone or something & see if the same part #'s go up. Or just wing it and try, hee hee.

My quest alternator still running strong by the way .

thekawaii
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To back up his/my result:

Super old alternator output: 11.4vshould be around : 12.9vafter swap: 14.4v

I don't have any sound system in my car, but still happy

driftin8ez
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sorry to bring this back but is there really no love for us CA guys? Anyone make a custom bracket or something?
Modified by driftin8nez at 8:46 PM 8/4/2006

240ssex
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The Mercury Villager alternators from 95-98 are the same as the Quest.

Just a quick note

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PantherRacer
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anyone wanna take some pictures and write a simplified write up of how you adapt the alternator for the SR?

Also, any other alternators that could be used?
Modified by PantherRacer at 10:20 PM 8/6/2006

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BigJuiceSr20
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The 1999 and up Quest and Villager push out 125 Amps. I have one coming from car-part.comand will retrofit this bad boy on my S13 SR motor. BTW when my dual Audi fans come on my voltage drops to 12V so the 125A alternator should easily solve that problem.

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ADiamond75
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BigJuiceSr20 wrote:The 1999 and up Quest and Villager push out 125 Amps. I have one coming from car-part.comand will retrofit this bad boy on my S13 SR motor. BTW when my dual Audi fans come on my voltage drops to 12V so the 125A alternator should easily solve that problem.
Please let us know if there are any install problems one you get it ... I.E. fitment and so on .... Also are you putting it in an S13 or S14?

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BigJuiceSr20
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I received 99 Quest alternator yesterday and it tested good at the local Advance Auto. It is 125A output as noted on the label. It has a 5 rib pulley that is slightly smaller than the SR, so I will leave that on. I test fitted on a SR motor (S13 redtop), that is not installed in car, and will have to machine off some material on the alternator and add a small spacer to get it to fit the stock lower bracket. Will have to modify the tension bracket as well. This alternator looks exactly like the 98 one that is in the picture one of you guys posted. Maybe just the internals differ and the change to a 5 rib pulley. I'll take some pics of the whole process and keep you guys posted.

Oh, I have a '93 S13 with the redtop S13 SR, Dual Audi fans push some serious CFM's but also draws more amps than I'd like. I also have a bunch of electronic gadgets to add to the current draw.

Toyfire
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I just started this swap today. I got the old out and the new one in. But there is a problem the top bracket is in the way of altenator. Did any one else have this problem how did you fix it. Thanks

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fayceoff
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brokeAs - great write-up; I'm in the middle of finishing mine up on my SOHC, but my belt doesn't look like it's big enough... did you have to have to muscle it on or anything? The alternator won't get any closer, but the belt is maybe half to 3/4 of an inch from going around the pulley.

Is there a different belt I should be using, or should I 'massage' it until it fits? Warm it up with a blow dryer or something, maybe...?

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onosqv
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on my sohc, I had an underdrive pulley, so I think I changed out the belt before I put it on anyway. Mine fit pretty nicely.

on my dohc, I had to get another belt - went through about 5 different ones til I found the perfect size, haha.

If it's a little too short, just bring it to the autoparts store & say "one size larger please". Or get 1 size & 2 size larger & return the one that doesn't work.

Best bet is to get a new belt if your's doesn't seem like it will go on w/o significant muscling.

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onosqv
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Toyfire wrote:I just started this swap today. I got the old out and the new one in. But there is a problem the top bracket is in the way of altenator. Did any one else have this problem how did you fix it. Thanks
Are you doing this on a KA? What exact alternator are u using? the KA, there should be no problem at all as I've done this on my sohc & dohc. You could loosen the top bracket a bit and let the alternator slide in, then tighten it again.

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scruffy63
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is it safe to assume that this 125 amp alternator will not be as easy as the 110 amp alt. this is for a sohc. 125 amps sounds nice.

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onosqv
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scruffy63 wrote:is it safe to assume that this 125 amp alternator will not be as easy as the 110 amp alt. this is for a sohc. 125 amps sounds nice.
I haven't gotten any solid responses from anyone w/ a 125 amp alternator installed into a KA yet , so I can't tell you if the housing is different or anything.

The 110 amp is 100% working tho .

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scruffy63
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ok the only difference is the pullys. first off they are 5 rib not 4. and the 125amp has a gold pulley. other than that they are identical. I just got one today so I suppose i'll be "The Pig".

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ADiamond75
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I've got an underdrive pulley for my altern alternator so I suppose this wouldn't be a problem, I'd just have put that pulley on? Are the wire connections the same too?

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onosqv
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ADiamond75 wrote:I've got an underdrive pulley for my altern alternator so I suppose this wouldn't be a problem, I'd just have put that pulley on? Are the wire connections the same too?
Why would you underdrive the alternator? That would sort of eliminate the point of upping the amperage...

Anyway, I don't know if the underdrive pulley for the alternator (guessing KA) would work on a Quest one. I believe the offset of the pulley's are different - hence using the pulley included on the Quest instead of moving over the KA one.

The wire connections are all the same.

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ADiamond75
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underdrive will really only effect it at ideal. And yeah, best of both worlds, little more juice and underdrive. Guess I'll try the 110 amp one.

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onosqv
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I C. Yea, my only problem w/ having lots of audio, fans, etc was during rush hour idling, hee hee. So that's where I needed the 110amps the most.

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ADiamond75
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I'll have electric fans and audio to, but when I drive the engine is usually between 4-7k so I don't think it'll be a problem. Guess I'll find out

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mallbor240SR
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what about the alternator fuse, its usually a 75amp fuse, do you need to upgrade the fuse to a higher amperage one ?

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ADiamond75
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that is a really good question. Wish I knew, someone pipe up and tell us.

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Carl H
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on a side note the quest 110a alternator will not fit on a rb20 unless a bracket is fabbed up, modding the stock bracket works well tho.this is a good mod for those who dont want to rewire their fuel pump or coils for direct power...and it helps if you are running alot of electrics.as for the fuse bit, its there incase there is a short, no short no problem.

pr240sx
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As for the 85 amp questionYou should keep it. This is the main fuse for all your car. Even if the alt pumps out more amps, does not mean that the car needs it.Also, you can check the maximum amp load with a tester and install an appropiate fuse.

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scruffy63
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Hey guys I don't know how long its been, but the sunday after my last post in this thread a 125 amp nissan quest alternator was installed. Visually the 110 amp and the 125 amp are the pretty much the same I believe. The pulley was gold not black though. only problem I dad was the top bracket.
brokeAs240sx wrote:Are you doing this on a KA? What exact alternator are u using? the KA, there should be no problem at all as I've done this on my sohc & dohc. You could loosen the top bracket a bit and let the alternator slide in, then tighten it again.
I figured that oout on my own. Now when I have my radio way up my idle is a little funky but other than that it runs perfect.

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homeslicej2
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scruffy63 wrote:only problem I dad was the top bracket.
What exactly was the problem you had with the bracket and how did you fix it? I want to do this swap and if the 125 fits with little more trouble than the 110 I'll do it. Also, I want to upgrade the alternator power and ground wires to get the full advantage of the higher output (I run a high power stereo system and the manufacturer recommends upgrading the alternator wires) but after looking at the FSM it looks like a pain. I was wondering if it would be okay to just run an additional power wire from the alternator to the battery? Any help is appreciated


Modified by homeslicej2 at 8:41 PM 1/15/2007

bige240
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You don't need any bigger power wire from the battery to the alternator, that size is big enough...I installed the 110 amp alt. conncted 8 gauge grounds to both sides of the engine bay and both sides of the engine and got a bigger battery....I run 1500 watts thru my system with 2 amps, and I have no problems...I get about 13.5v when the car is moving with heater, stereo full, and headlights on, and 12.5-13v when I'm at a stop sign...

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homeslicej2
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yeah I'd have to fuse the wire in between as well. I was just wondering though because I already have an optima red top, a stinger 4-gauge multi-amp kit with a 1.2 farad capacitor w/voltage display, and a hot earth universal grounding kit (it has roughly 4-gauge wire, most 4-gauge is around 1650 strands, this kit is like 1400 or so and just a hair smaller than my stinger wire. the ground kit is also 99.99% OFC copper). Even with all that, and yes i remove paint and gunk and go to bare metal for my grounds, I still only average between 13.0-13.6 volts while cruising with or without accessories on, and sometimes it dips as low as 12.0v @ idle w/ headlights, stereo up high, and climate control on (not the A/C though), and my amps only generate about 500 watts RMS!. So I was just wondering if the bigger alternator needed a bigger wire to help correct this voltage problem. Same idea as trying to feed a 1000 watt amp with a 120amp fuse rating through 10-gauge, not a good thing, needs to be 1/0-gauge. Sorry for the long post.


Modified by homeslicej2 at 1:41 PM 1/16/2007


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