I solved the problem with a belt that was 3 sizes bigger and am running it that way, works great but my rad popped .

Well I herd you can mod a ka24e alt. to run on a Ca18det.

so..... If Im gonna mod an alternator then why not mod the quest to fit the CA.

Any one tried or done this?

Hey guys,

I was really interested in this modification for my 90 KA24E, which had a failing alternator, but I guess I didn't follow the steps exactly. I noticed that I was having some fitment issues with the Quest alternator. I don't know if anyone else experienced this. Now, I'm not too savvy on the exact terms of what things are called so please bare with me.

I bolted the bottom bolt which goes through the two holes and bracket on the bottom first. I needed to drill both of these holes larger than 3/8" as it's already been mentioned (25/64" drill bit was perfect). So that was in, secure, and fit like the original, but then I try to pull the Quest alternator's top to the dirver's side to bolt it to the top mount on the tensioner bracket, but the top part of the new alternator comes out further forward than on the old alternator. I took measurements, then took the alternator out along with the tensioner bracket and compared the two alternators. It looked like I had cutting to do. I took about 1/2" off of that top hole, got a longer bolt (so that it would feed further out the back, due to the threads that were lost by cutting the threaded hole) nut/washer/lock-washer. I also cut a bit off of the tensioner bracket so that it would be free of the top ribs of the alternator.

These two bits of cutting were really simple and done with a metal hack saw in no time flat. Maybe it would have worked witout cutting this bit, but looking at the new and old alternators I can't see how this can be "bold-on" without making the top hole flat (like it was on the old alternator). I have ample belt clearance, everything is lined up superbly, and my voltmeter reads 14.2. This trouble was well worth the peace of mind.

I took some pictures of where I cut things if people are interested.
Modified by Tedzy at 3:59 AM 9/5/2007

I probably missed it in the thread, but where are you guys getting your alternators?? Autozone wants $220 for one! I see some listed on ebay for $69.99+shipping, and a few of the sellers have excellent feedback. But, I am not sure if they are knock-off parts that won't work well or.....??

I got mine from eBay... I think it ended up being about $55 shipped and it looked like it was brand new. Worked great, too. I would give you the seller's name, but it was too long ago.

fayceoff wrote:I got mine from eBay... I think it ended up being about $55 shipped and it looked like it was brand new. Worked great, too. I would give you the seller's name, but it was too long ago.

Thanks for the info.

I just purchased this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...88884

I figure, if it messes up, I still have my stock alternator to get me to my job, and I can get the internals rebuilt and upgraded to OEM spec parts for $110 at the local alternator rebuild shop. Even if I have to do that, it's still cheaper than the $220 AUtozone wants....


Modified by 2FourTee at 1:07 AM 9/9/2007

went to pnp last week and got the new parts interchange info on this alt it turns out that the alt is made by mitsubishi ID# 231001b000, F6XA10300AA, F6XAAA found on nissan quest '96-98Villager '95 from 3/95Villager '96-97Villager '98 through 1/5/98 got mine on a 95 villager just wish i went on 1/2 day happy hunting guys

OK, attempted this swap tonight but had to stop short. First off, the retard at Autozone gave me a belt that was way too long. I had drilled the bottom hole out to a little over 3/8 inch. I basically just used a 3/8 bit and used it as a reamer to get it to the proper size. NOTE: One important thing to note is that this alternator is quite a bit larger than the stock one. I can pull my stock one out by twisting it a certain way and it just comes right out. The Quest alternator required me to unbolt the sway bar from the chassis and drop it down all the way. Not a big deal at all, but just thought I would mention it.

So, anyways, I get it up in there, get the lower bolt through, and I'm thinking "Hell yeah, this is going to be done in no time". So, I go attach the upper mount and it's a no go. I'm going to have to grind off at least 1/4 inch off of the front face of the upper mount.

You can kinda see in these pics. THe first pic shows the stock one. As you can see, both mounting points are about at the same height. The second pic shows the new one. You can see the large part that will need to be grinded down on the right upper corner.

SOrry for the crappy pics. All I have is a cell phone right now to take pics.

Stock alternator:

Quest alternator:

It's almost 2am here and I'm calling it a night. Will report back tomorrow after getting everything grinded down properly. ANd of course, after I go back to exchange the belt at AUtozone.

One good thing was that I did not have to modify any electrical connectors at all. Everything plugs right up. All I have to do is grind down that mounting point and I'm set.

EDIT: These pics were taken at slightly different distances and do not reflect the size difference of the alternators.
Modified by 2FourTee at 3:27 AM 9/15/2007

Finally got it in and tested it, and it works great. Headlights/foglights (I have HID foglights) seem slightly brighter, and when I hit my brights on a dark road, they also seemed brighter. I have a mild stereo with a 5 channel amp and one sub. With interior fan on full blast, all lights on, I could crank the stereo up and it was not only slightly louder, but clearer. ALso, my headlights no longer dim on long bass notes like they used to. ANd I can have all power accessories on, while simultaneously opening the sunroof and both windows, and the car didn't seem to strain at all. Awesome upgrade, and I totally recommend it.... but,....

....let me say that I spent 8+ hours on this damn project The alternator is much larger than the stock one and did not fit well. The front sway bar needs to be unbolted on both sides and lowered just to get it in/out of the engine bay. WHat took so long is that I would end up grinding a spot, wrestling it up in there, trying it out.... doesn't fit, wrestle it out, grind a little more, wrestle it back up in there, still doesn't fit, etc etc. The spots that need to be ground down are the flange mentioned above (had to remove ~3/8 inch) and the little "bump" that is on the top of the alternator. It's there because there is a screw that goes into it. This had to be grinded down because otherwise, the alternator would hit all the hoses and hard lines that run under the stock KA24DE's throttle body. I also had to modify the upperalternator bracket. I had to increase the adjustment range by enlarging the "slot" that the upper alternator bolt rides in.

At one point I had it on there, had the sway bar bolted back up, and I was tightening down the power steering tensioner bolt when I decided the belt wasn't tight enough. (THis was the point where I modified the bracket by enlarging the "slot".) SO, I had to unbolt EVERYTHING again (after JUST tightening it down) and modify the damn alternator bracket again.

I ended up using the 320K4 belt. WIthout lengthening the alternator slot, I would have not been able to use that belt. But I could not, even with considerable force, get the 315K4 on there.

I'm beat. What I thought would be a ~3 hour project ended up taking 3 hours one night, and 6 the next.

Hopefully everyone's installs go better than mine.
Modified by 2FourTee at 1:53 AM 9/16/2007

Here are the spots that need to be modified:

Congrats on finishing it. And may I just say - you have the clearest pictures I've ever seen from a camera phone!

Thanks. Usually my cell phone pics don't turn out that great. Must have been the lighting or something.

Just to follow up, I tested the voltage with a multimeter tonight. Actually, a friend held the tester while I turned accessories on/off, turned fan on full blast, all lights on inside and out, and the stereo halfway up (mild 400 watt system). AT one point, when I was rolling the windows down, the idle dropped as the load increased on the alternator. But never, even during this time, did the voltage drop below 13.9 volts, and most times it stayed right at 14.0 volts.

Excellent upgrade, and it will be even more useful when I switch to electric fans, and any other electronic devices I decide to add.

(My multimeter took a crap,, so I could not test the voltage before the upgrade. All I can tell you is that I can tell a big difference at night, especially with my headlight brightness.)

Has any one done this swap on an Altima's KA93 Altima with the ka24de in it. I dont think clearance should be an issue just wondering about bolting up. Im about to take on this swap.

bump

hey guys just wanted to say this post is awesome i bought the quest 110 amp alternator after huge issues with my car. After dual altima fans my fuel pump was getting such low voltage up top that my car was fuel cutting i soon after realized it was because the battery was in the back and my car had a 70 amp alternator.

My car is 89 coupe with a s14 sr20det in it.

After just messing with the alternator for a few minutes i redrilled the holes and got it in, but noticed the bracket needs to be recut or remade,

anyone do this on a sr20det i am sure i will figure it out just havent had the time yet i figure this weekend for sure, i will post pictures hopefully

thanks,

mark

hey guys just wanted to say this post is awesome i bought the quest 110 amp alternator after huge issues with my car. After dual altima fans my fuel pump was getting such low voltage up top that my car was fuel cutting i soon after realized it was because the battery was in the back and my car had a 70 amp alternator.My car is 89 coupe with a s14 sr20det in it.

After just messing with the alternator for a few minutes i redrilled the holes and got it in, but noticed the bracket needs to be recut or remade,

anyone do this on a sr20det i am sure i will figure it out just havent had the time yet i figure this weekend for sure, i will post pictures hopefully

thanks,

mark

I'm having trouble aligning the bottom alternator brackets... the bolt won't go through the back alternator bracket. Any magical tips for those with a successful install?

Also, this was quite a humbling experience because it was so damn hard to get the larger one back in place! Thanks for starting this thread.. it's been quite helpful.

EDIT: I was having trouble because the bracket that attaches to the bottom of the alternator has a steep angle. Also, the diameter of the alternator body is much wider than the original one.. so much that it bumps into the C-shape part of the bracket where the bolt slides through. I ground down the areas shown and the alternator could slide into place much easier



I don't have a pic of what I did on the other side to the hump that has no bolt. If you grind that completely off, you can slide the alternator up without having to bang on the bracket holding the lines under the throttle body. Doing both of these grinds along with grinding the upper bracket down (shown above), I was able to use the original size belt. Hope this helps someone!
Modified by boomzilla at 12:05 AM 11/29/2007

I did this mod the other day on my s13. Had to grind out the alternator bracket, as the hole sat a little lower that stock. Other than that it works.

i installed one on my s14 sr2odet in my s13 and WOW VOLTAGE WAS AMAZING, needed grinding and played with the bracket but got it in there worked out good

I have heard that the even newer quest's alternator will work also, the 99-02 models are rated at 125 amps...

Does anyone know if it's the same dimensions as the 97's? We could always use more juice...

nlzmo400r wrote:I have heard that the even newer quest's alternator will work also, the 99-02 models are rated at 125 amps...

Does anyone know if it's the same dimensions as the 97's? We could always use more juice...

I believe a couple of people have done this - either in this thread or another thread.

As I said last year, I put a 125amp 99 into my zenki . It is bigger (I compared the two at autozone) but I was able to make it fit with minimal fabrication.

Okay everybody, the swap to this altinator is no where near as easy as it looks or sounds as suggested by what you have been reading... so don't be misled.

first off the part number shown in other posts is correct: 13473 if it is from prostart, "Pep-boys"

Two there are several modifications required in order to install this alternator

you do have to drill the main rotating point. use a 13/32 drill bit but work your way up to it. the side with the added ring will cost you a lot of time drilling if you try to do this real fast. take your time this is only one step in doing this swap.Your going to need drill bits designed to cut through metal, or your going to need at least three standard bits. cause you will wear them out fast.

Next, on the quest alternator for the above model you are going to grind multiple points down and or cut off sections entirely.

Get a good grinder with a cut off wheel and get ready to cut. For everybody with issues with the upper adjustment bracket that doesn't work this is your easy fix. cut off about a little under a half inch from the beging face side of the threads. You will no longer need these threads anyhow they do not line up with the stock ka-24de or e motorbrackets. when your done cutting their will only be a few threads left inside the hole. take your 13/32 drill bit and drill out the threads and increase the size of this hole.

final prep of the alternator, you need to cut and grind you way to fit the alternator into place.

where the small wire connects to the alternator the metal on the outside edge of this area your going to have to grind and cut away sections of the skin of the alternator to fit under the throttle body and vacume lines that are placed there, this will require several play throughs of grinding installing and back through the process again.

In prep for the installs losen your adjustment/ tension bracket. this step is not nessessesary if you cut off enough of the threaded in holding bolt point., if you cut off enough it should glide right into place.

Once all of your alternator work is done it fits into places and rotates well enough for the install and removal of the belt no it's time to put it together.

Their are some parts that will be helpful to pick up before you start the process. "This is how i did it and it worked well."

First go to the junk yard and pick up the long adjustment rod for the alternator from a ka motor.If you have this part lying around then great!last you need to find a nut with washer preattached, i had one lying around that threaded onto the long ajdustment bolt. i don't know where from the car it came from but it did come from my 240. you can also buy them.

now take your original holding bolt for the alternator and place beside the long adjusment bolt add about an inch to the end and cut off the excess screws from the adjustment bolt. now smooth out th threads and clean up the bolt. you now have the perfect holding bolt for the adjustment process.

Now, depending if you grinded your alternator well enough or not depends how easy it is for the belt to go back onto the alternator.

If your having major problems set the alternator in place slide the main rotating pin in place then rotate the alternator up untill it gets stuck pull the rotation pin and push down on the alternator, put on your belt then return rotation pin.

now the bolt we made up earlier take needle nose plyers and side the bolt in from the back of the bracketing. now even though the hole is larger you'll still have to angle this bolt to slide into the bracketing. once you got it somewhat lined up. if you have small hands, you should be able to get a finger in behind and push the bolt all the way through.fit it back throught the adjustment square slide and screw on your nut/washer don't tighten all the way you still need to adjust your belt tension.

now prep the rotation pin to be tightened down but don't tighen it either just yet.

plug all your wires back into place. now one of the wires you can drill out to fit onto the new larger screw hold or cut the old connection off and install a larger one that fits. plug in your square connector and adjust your belt tension.tighten the holding bolt for the tensioner and finally tighten the rotation pin reconnect your battery and other equipment start your car.

i reealize that i skipped or jumped over the tear down process of the stock alternator, but if you cannot do that part of the job from memory believe me this is not the swap for you. It can be quite frustrating and even with two expierenced people hashing out the various problems it still took a full 6 hours. probobly will take alot less using the information i have provided.

if you do you specific questions about my install and how it went, feel free write back. i only wrote this out to help everyone else out and when reading the forum before alot of problems were listed but not how to fix many and not even addressing others... i hope i covered all the bases. if you are having a problem just ask its possible through all the bs i went through today i forgot to mention a small detail.

no the newer quest alternators dont fit the bolt position do not line up even in the slightest 97 is the abslute latest year usable, sorry everybody. i got shipped a newer on to start with it would not fit at all not even close. maybe another model or other type of vehicle but its a no way on newer quest alternators

However, a buddy has an s-14 that the newer alternators may work on the use a different design then the s-13 models... me and my buddy will be trying this out just to be sure, this time we'll take pictures of everything step by step...

Furthermore we have found that each alternator is different from the next each one we have modified to fit we've had to grind in other locations... one was very close to the forum and the others were quite different... this is a heavy modification job for beginners try and find someone to help you out your first time through...

my second time through i did the whole swap in about an hour with modifications. 100% complete and with less problems. But i also had a spare motor set sitting around for fine tuning of the grinding process, if you got one it helps out alot.
Modified by stinger3007 at 7:29 PM 4/17/2008

*edit*

for me
Modified by mentordrift at 11:18 PM 4/16/2008

what do you want edited?

oh, nothing, I edited one of my posts because I was a brief tard.

I upgraded to a 98 Mercury Villager 125 amp on my 95' se this weekend after Scruffy63 confirmed that no grinding was necessary.

The best advise I have for anybody doing this is remove as little as possible, but as much as needed. If something is in the way remove it. I only had to drill out the two holes on the bottom of the Alternator where the bottom bolt goes, use a belt two sizes larger and use Scruff63's method. Original belt for me was was a duralast kp 905 or something like that and incrementally went up by fives, so two sizes up was kp915?.

The way I finally got the larger alternator on was to unbolt all three bolts to the alternator bracket, barely screw on the bolt that goes through the tensioner/adjuster (the long bolt) to the alternator and then screwing on the last two bolts that screw on to the block. Don't be mislead, if it's your first time messing with the alternator and your working by yourself (like me) it will take like 6-8 hours. Mostly reading the manual and figuring out how to remove stuff and where stuff goes. Adjusting and placing the belts is pretty easy, and anybody doing this upgrade should replace the belts with new ones, also check your grounds. I found my ground had rusted through ( I replaced it with 2 gauge and found new chasis grounding points). Think about replacing the PCV valve (its right there above the alternator, but a huge PITA). My pcv hose was fragile and busted and I couldn't believe how hard it was for me to replace (made me regret replacing it).

Thanks to scruffy63 for answering my PM's

scruffy63 wrote:well I got the bottom bolt and nut on. but I couldn't swivel the alternator to where it needed to be. it was banging against the top bracket. The one that bolts on to the block. all you have to do is loosen the 2 or 3 bolts holding on the bracket put the alternator where it needs to be then tighten down all the bracket and tensioner bolts. If it sounds complicated its really not. You'll figure it out for sure once you're actually looking at it.

as for your other questions I have no clue. I just wanted the extra amps when I needed them. not all the time.

Modified by reezn at 5:45 PM 8/4/2008
Modified by reezn at 6:23 PM 8/4/2008

the ac brackets on the other side of the car, are you talking about the alt adj bracket and what brand alt is it and what is the part number i did this swap on an s13 and there was three drifferent alt u can get thank.