Distributor going bad?

[bcar240]

Hey guys, I have a DE and it’s been acting stubborn lately. It was sporadically missing on #1 about a year ago and I replaced plugs, wires, and distributor cap/rotor and it disappeared until now. This time at first it was only missing for a little bit when I started the car warm, but now it pretty much misses at lower rpms under moderate loads. There are specific rpm ranges where it likes to miss, but the problem stops above 2500 rpm. As far as I’ve been able to tell it is all cylinder 1. The problem seems to get worse with outside temperature (the hotter outside the worse it gets) and if you really heatsoak the engine like long interstate driving then it gets horrible. I replaced the plug wires again recently and checked the plugs (looked normal). Does this sound like a distributor going bad? Any experiments to try, advice, other thoughts?Thanks in advance!

[ZOOMIGUEL]

i had similar problem, i bought a new distributor ... bought it used for 40$ luckily problem been good for a week...

[bcar240]

ya, I think I'm going to hit up the junkyard and see if I can find one. Are there any other compatible Nissans I could look for as well or is the 91-93 S13 distributor unique among the KA24s?

[s13rb25det]

sounds just like a knock sensor going bad.

[bcar240]

sounds just like a knock sensor going bad.

good point. Now that I think about it, there is no reason for anything below the distributor cap to cause it to miss like it was. A new test seems to confirm all the cylinders are getting spark. Maybe what's strangest is that I am not getting a CEL.

Another thing I forgot to mention. One of the two screws that hold the distributor cap and all on was previously not present because some previous owner broke a screw off it in and just left it. It was running fine like this originally, but when this problem started I drilled it out and it is connected with a zip-tie for the moment with no improvement.

[s13rb25det]

yeah my s13 does the same thing. and it is the knock sensor the KS will not throw a code either. it sounds just like what mine is doing. look for a code#34 when you check for codes. good luck

[bcar240]

very interesting. I googled and found a site with directions on how you can replace the KS without removing the intake manifold that I might have to try. But man are those little guys expensive , I might still be going to the junkyard.

[s13rb25det]

yeah I got mine off of ebay it was $57 which isnt to bad. i also got a newknock sensor harness from courtesy nissan fpr $50 it really was not that had to change the sensor I removed and installed it all from the top. I just used a plummers snake and installed it thought the intake manifold.

[bcar240]

ya $57 is livable. The method I saw used a coat hanger and tape, but yours sounds a little more workable. Whenever I see directions like, "fish around until you work the bolt in," I know I'm in for some frustration. I guess I will get the old ohmmeter out when I replace it, supposedly you can tell if it is the sensor or the wiring by checking resistance. Though I am slightly skeptical and might just get the harness, because I wouldn't want to do it twice if I didn't have to.

[s13rb25det]

yeah it pretty easy, what you do is put the sensor on with the harness. and with the bolt also use dielectric grease to hold it in. then feed it in either though the front of the engine or thogh the top. the only real tricky part was getting it past the pcv system. once you get past the pcv system its just a matter of using the plummers snake to line it up. you have to remove or just push the fuel lines out of the way on top of the intake manifold. I think this way is easier than geting it from below the engine good luck.

[bcar240]

thanks for all the help, I'll let you know how it goes.

[Soravia]

What about just dis-connecting the knock sensor?

Mine acts up funny too but it doesn't do that on high rpm or highway driving.

I'm thinking TPS might be the cause as well but it doesn't seem to be very likely.

[s13rb25det]

you dont want to disconnect your knock sensor, its there for a very good reason. you could try the resitor trick and run higher octane fuel but I would not recommend it in the summer heat. it really is not that hard to change the sensor just be creative and look at every possible way to install it.

[bcar240]

What about just dis-connecting the knock sensor?

Mine acts up funny too but it doesn't do that on high rpm or highway driving.

I'm thinking TPS might be the cause as well but it doesn't seem to be very likely.

If I try to hold the accelerator about 5-10% of the way down to keep the engine revved over a bad rpm range while I'm idling, I can tell I am fighting the computer which is trying to adjust it back to the normal idle speed, like it doesn't realize I'm pressing on the throttle on purpose. Maybe the TPS is just not that sensitive and I'm just not pressing enough. I'm thinking I will do the KS first and see if that fixes it, I may just be imagining things at this point. I think the massive heat this summer is what finally killed the old sensor off, it was definitely a progressive failure rather than sudden.

[Soravia]

My engine over heated off the bat because of the cracked radiator. Lucky I didn't blow the head gasket.I'm also trying to see if it's the spark plugs because BOSCH Platinum 2+ 4+ can cause the same symptons as well. Usually on medium to heavy throttle.

[s13rb25det]

yeah, those BOSCH plugs are pretty stupid. I would switch them out for some NGK iridiums. that might just be you problem.