change the timing belt asap. If you crank the engine, then say goodbye it. Good idea to change the water pump at the same timecaliforniak wrote:I think VG30E is interference engine. Anyone here can confirm for sure? I do not want to spent a whole lot of time to take stuff apart if I am going to junk the car. They sell for about 2-3K so to spent 20-30 hours + $600-1000 to fix it makes no sense. But maybe I just take the hour to remove all the stuff from front and take a look. Put new belt on and give it few turns and see.
Real bummer is I have the water pump and timing belt in back of the car for 2 months and I was just waiting for better weather. Bummer fer sure...
Since this happened at 60MPH and it took few seconds to realize whats going on I am pretty sure the engine cycled at least 50 times before I disengaged the clutch. Beside I tried to restart it by releasing clutch in gear few times while coasting down hill. The damage is definitely done if it is interference engine, there is no magical position in rotation if the belt fails not to damage the valves. Simple math 3000RPMs divide by 60(sec) = 50 rotations per second. I don't have to worry about cranking her up no more. And I tried many times, thats how I discovered that the rotor is not turning. The thing is I didn't hear any big bang sound when it originally happened.Maybe the stereo and background traffic noise killed the valve hammering noise.pathfinder_top_gear5 wrote:
change the timing belt asap. If you crank the engine, then say goodbye it. Good idea to change the water pump at the same time
When you turn it over now, is it making any sounds that make you think the valves are damaged? I've got a spare distributor if you need one, but I think your problem might lay deeper. Do what was suggested above and pull the distributor out and see what the gear looks like.californiak wrote:
Since this happened at 60MPH and it took few seconds to realize whats going on I am pretty sure the engine cycled at least 50 times before I disengaged the clutch. Beside I tried to restart it by releasing clutch in gear few times while coasting down hill. The damage is definitely done if it is interference engine, there is no magical position in rotation if the belt fails not to damage the valves. Simple math 3000RPMs divide by 60(sec) = 50 rotations per second. I don't have to worry about cranking her up no more. And I tried many times, thats how I discovered that the rotor is not turning. The thing is I didn't hear any big bang sound when it originally happened.Maybe the stereo and background traffic noise killed the valve hammering noise.
Exactly right. That's why I bought it (new) in the first place. I had 2 kids in hockey at the time, and waited until the extended Voyager with the V6 came out. There was nothing else like it back then. I loved it. Drove it for 12 years. Too bad the transmission wasn't Japanese though.SnowSurfLax wrote:
As for the minivan, if I remember correctly, those things had a Japanese engine, Mitsubishi to be exact. That's why it lasted so long.
Those mistsubishi engines were bulletproof, I remember when I worked at a chrysler when those old caravans came in the 3.3 and 3.8's always sounded like crap, notorious for mad valve ticking but the 3.0 always ran great!SnowSurfLax wrote:As for the minivan, if I remember correctly, those things had a japanese engine, mitsubishi to be exact. That's why it lasted so long.