Distinguishing rod knock from pinging from piston slap, from...

[slipnfall]

Hi folks, A bit of a grim post here: I've developed a noise in my '92 KA24DE. Freshly rebuilt around 10,000mi ago(all new timing components), perfect compression. I *just* got done adjusting the shims about a week ago: they are all now within 0.001" of factory spec. My timing is verified. Obviously the engine runs a lot quieter, I no longer hear my cams at idle. But now a week later, I get this noise above 3500rpm, and it sounds a lot like the valves 'ticking', like they did at idle with the lose adjustments. My question is, how can you distinguish the difference between piston slap, rod knock, detonation(I *always* use Chevron '91, the best avail here), or something similar? I have a 2.5" exhaust with test pipe, and I can hear this noise over the exhaust at those RPMs. Any suggestions?

Thanks for reading, I'm hoping for the best.Jamie

[jr_ss]

Most of the time you'll only hear piston slap right after start-up before your engine gets up to temperature.

Rod-knock you can almost feel. It's like someone is in your cylinders with a sledge hammer, knocking away. It varies with engine speed, the higher the rpms, the harder and faster the pound..

Valve train noise is a ticking sound. It will also vary with engine speed. The higher the rpms the faster the noise.

Hope this helps out some...

[tonynalli]

so did you just break in the motor with the new specs???if thats the case...thn BREAK IN YOUR MOTOR...no going past 3k at all...but..if not then, rod nock generally only get worse and worse and worse...if your car stutters when your on the highway and knocks then its more then likely bad bearings...but you also have to break in the motor generally right to get it to work properly...and you need to use ND oil (no detergent)