direction to go with next engine

[tyrannix]

so ive got the first engine in the car, i didnt half-*** it, but i didnt go all the way with it either

this summer's project will be another CA, and i will have a nismo fully counterweighted crank which has a longer stroke and needs different rods (RB rods are supposed to fit)and the euro 4-port head/runners with gsxr ITBs and some kind of better flowing plenum

now for this engine, i want to move the power band up, with a bigger turbo, so instead of around 3-7k like most, i want to move it to 4k-9k or 4.5k-10k somewhere in/around there

this isnt for a daily driver, its a toy. but that doesnt mean i want to be boosting while city driving, so keeping it under 3.5k shouldnt be boosting much if at all, but when its time to go, i stay above 4k

so what i need to know is should i bore the cylinders to get back to square, and what kind of numbers on cams should i be looking for (for a regrind, or if i can find tomei/hks) or is it just a matter of adjusting cam timing?

and i will be using an SDS or haltec with MAPs by this point

Dee?

edit>im at work, and dont have access to my other email, ill post up numbers on the crank when i get home (stroke and diameter for rods)

[originalsin]

where you getting that crank from?

[teddy]

theres a few sets of tomei procams and poncams up on ebay that come in 254,260, and 270 with various lift. Although I'd say you're probably going to want something 260 or larger for what your goals are.

You should also check out the AEM EMS. They now make a plug and play application for our ca's.

[float_6969]

My vote is to bore it back out to as close to square as possible. The only downside to that is that the cylnder walls may get pretty thin and may not handle lots of boost.

As for cams, if you can get your hands on a set of aftermarket ones, go for it, but I wouldn't rule out re-grinds either. I'd go for something in the 270 degree range.

[tyrannix]

i dont have the crank yet, ive been working on getting it for awhile (since october)

the stroke is 88mm, and is 50mm for the rods

i wanted to go tomei for the head, and now finally, cams, gears and valve springs are all available.(so yeah, ill go with something in the 270s range, 9mm of lift should be ok so i dont have to go solid lifters..... or would i be better off that way?

i remember dee saying he wont bore over 85mm?

stock bore on a ca20 block is 84.5mm, maybe i should be looking at one of them. maybe a finned piston could compensate for having no oil squirters?thats if it doesnt have thinner walls already because of being that wide

i want to have the ability to boost to 2 bar without something expensive happening (not that im going to boost 2 bar daily or anything, just want to be able to do it to have that cushion)

edit> i just looked at takakaira, they list tomei ca18 forged pistons as having an 89mm bore

........ ?


Modified by tyrannix at 10:18 PM 3/16/2006

[fraz]

the ca20 block is 20mm taller. You can run the same stroke crank and have a bettter rod ratio than in the ca18 block. The higher the rod ratio, the more rev happy it will be.

150mm rods will be suitable for the 88mm crank in the ca20 block. In the ca18 block you will need around 133mm rods which is not ideal on a 88mm stroke crank unless you have strong rods and strong AND light pistons.

You will need to re-thread the head bolt holes out to m11x1.5 versus the stock ca20 m10x1.5mm.

The oil squirters can be fitted to the ca20 block. the oil galleries are in the same place as the ca18, just need to machine flats into them and drill and tap the holes.

The big crank fits the ca20 block with ca20 caps, ca18det main bolts and girdle, ca18det oil pump.The crank also has the came size big end as the rb series engines, but the rb rods are about 1.5mm too narrow. Im currently having a set of chev rods narrowed to dummy assemble and check for piston height etc.

You should run 10mm 270deg cams and VG solid lifters to make it scream.

As the crank is heavy, im going to run the flex plate off the auto ca18det for the starter ring gear and a tilton 8inch twin plate clutch.

[float_6969]

...As the crank is heavy, im going to run the flex plate off the auto ca18det for the starter ring gear and a tilton 8inch twin plate clutch.

holy crap....

[fraz]

I got this block a while ago. Its based on a ca20 block but has a bigger crank girdle than the ca18.DE oil pump fits and any ca water pump and oil filter/oil cooler will fit etc

250kb pics so i will just post links

big blockhttp://www.geocities.com/fraz_rips/block2.jpgh ... block3.jpg

ca20 cap and bolt on left, ca18de/det cap and bolt on right. You just use the de/det bolt on the ca20 cap with the ca18de/det girdle on tophttp://www.geocities.com/fraz_rips/caps.jpg

This is a ca20 crank in a ca18 block. you can see where the counterweights hit the webs. It can be easily mowed back with a cut off wheel in a grinder, only about 10mm x 10mm needs to be removedhttp://www.geocities.com/fraz_rips/hits.jpg

ca20 block, ca18det crank and girdle with de/det main boltshttp://www.geocities.com/fraz_rips/ca19.jpg

ca20 block, 2L 8 bolt forged crank. The counterweights hit in the same places that the ca20 crank hits in the ca18 block, but its not much.http://www.geocities.com/fraz_rips/big1.jpg

forged 2L crank, ca20 block, ca18det crank girdle. The counterweights fit under the girdle by about 4-5mm which is plenty.http://www.geocities.com/fraz_rips/big2.jpg

A good motor to build would be a ca20 block/ca18det crank + girdle + oil pump, 4g63 lancer evo1 onwards rods, 84.5mm honda pistons. http://www.theoldone.com make real trick honda pistons with many different size crowns to get the compression you want. You will have to get the gudgeon pin hole bored from 21mm to 22mm to fit the mitsi rod, but its not a major.

here is a pic of an evo rod compared to a ca18det onehttp://www.geocities.com/fraz_rips/rods.jpgThe big end is about 2mm wider, i cant remember exactly, but can get the size if anybody wants. It cost me $10 per rod to get them set up on a mill and shaved 0.8mm each side i think. You run stock 4g63 big end bearings.

[Akihisa]

There is 2.2l stroker kit for sale right now on Yahoo Autions Japan. Just type in CA18 CA20 and it should pull right up. I comes with the correct rods also.

[tyrannix]

i hate you and your awesome part hookups (email replied)

is that the beefy-manwich block that cracked in those pics?

im getting the best price on a ca20 block to play with

and im debating on cams, im going with tomei

a bit of theory i need help with, having a larger duration on teh exhaust cam will get more combusted mixture out of the cylinder and therefor suck more fresh in , producing more power?

looking like 270 and 10.25mm lift, should i go higher duration with the exhaust?(with tomei cam gears, cams and either tomei springs or vg springs.. whichever is heftier)

and then should i be getting procams or poncams... decisions, decisions... anyone have an english site that actually describes the real differences between them?

and ill be taking your advise on the VG parts, going into a worked european 4 port head, with CPC PLenum, dummy 80-90 mm tb, then gsxr ITBs

ps. i broke down and bought an auto-tinting welding mask today, so i should have the front mount installed by sunday (its an apexi gt-spec, from a toyota chaser in a japanese junkyard... they mount a bit different then an s-body, i managed to scavenge a bunch of IC piping tho, so i might be able to just weld up my own pipes without getting any new)


Modified by tyrannix at 9:51 PM 3/23/2006