Differential parts and questions

[Sime3479]

I have got some good news! I just bought a VLSD and axles for my 1995 240sx.

The bad news is this is how they arrived:



Does that center cover just slide back into place or does it need a sealer or gasket as well? I was also wondering if I should replenish the grease in there as well? If so what kind of grease is that?

- It is also missing two sets of hardware in the picture. I think I should be able to find replacements for those at my local hardware store.



Notice how half of it is nice and shiny? Thats because gear oil has managed to leak out somewhere. So now I guess I am going to have to take it apart and get a new cover gasket and fill her up again.

- I was thinking about pulling the output shafts out to inspect the oil seals on them as well. Does anyone know the part # for the seals?

Modified by Sime3479 at 9:53 PM 11/7/2006
Modified by Sime3479 at 9:55 PM 11/7/2006

[Sime3479]

Does anyone have any input for me? Thanks in advance.

[Blown240sx]

your bitching about a used part not being perfect theres your advice. How much did you pay? If you didnt pay 700 bucks dont ***** since thats the price of a Nismo without install price.

[Sime3479]

You are right I was being way to anal about it. Thanks for helping me to get over it haha.

[WildKarrde]

Hey! Someone just like me! I just got my VLSD just like that! Just without the seal busted or leaks. Bummer dude, I am sorry i can't help you out, i would think it would be standard axle grease for that seal but I am too new to Nissan RWD's. Well if anyone posts any advice for us I'll be watching.

[Sime3479]

Well I managed to figure out with the help of some guys on this board that the oil leaked out of the vent tube on the diff. So I don't need to replace any seals or anything.

It also turns out all I had to do was slide that cap back on the axle and its good to go I didn't have to add any grease or anything.

Today I changed the oil in the diff and got it all set to go in then I jacked up the car and checked out what I am working with. EVERYTHING that I need to loosen/remove is rusted. So I think I am going to throw in the towel on this one and have someone else do it. I was also thinking that when I get it done I should have a new cat-back ready to go in seeing as how the stock exhaust is rusted pretty bad and I don't for see it fitting/bolting in like it should again. Why not just replace it while it's out right?

What do you guys think, should I just wait until I can get a new exhaust and have someone kill two birds with one stone for me?

[S3t0_S13]

the upgrade from a open diff to a VLSD is amazing, i dont think id be able 2 wait till i get a exhaust, although getting them both done at the same time is easier i guessid do it now though

whered u get that diff from anyway? $?is it off a older 240 cuz of the halfshafts?

[WildKarrde]

I always believe in doing the stuff myself, but if you think its bad enough to be worth it to have someone else do it, go for it. If you planned on buying an exhaust to begin with I would wait to do both.

[ka24dave]

your bitching about a used part not being perfect theres your advice. How much did you pay? If you didnt pay 700 bucks dont ***** since thats the price of a Nismo without install price.

no reason to be a jackass there buddy. looks like you needa quit crying.

[ricebike]

did you open the rear diff cover to make sure you've got an actual VLSD in thurr?????

[matt4pl]

pop that sucker open, inspect the inside, change the fluid (DO NOT add friction modifier, lol, wouldnt be suprised if some part store moron would tell you to), rtv the cover, bolt it back on, and enjoy,

PB blaster, breaker bars and other torque enchancing goodies are your best friend when dealing with rusted drivetrain/suspension parts. when i did my swap i put an wrench on the bolt holding the u-joint to the pinion flange and stuck the other end in a pipe and gave the engine a crank.... prolly not a good idea but it worked really well, for removing the output shaft bolts, put a wrench on, brace it against the chassis, and turn the wheel, works amazingly well, but before you do that, douse all the components in PB blaster or WD40 or w/e u like using, also the rear nuts that are somewhat sunken into the subfram, there are 3, one on the pass side, 2 on the drivers side, they hold a ground strap between the two of em