I see the fill plug according to the manual, but cant find the drain. Also, what type of screw do I use to get the square fill plug off?

The drain plug is in plain sight on my 2000. It faces the rear bumper and is at the bottom of the differential pumpkin. You need a 1/2" ratchet (the ratchet, not a socket). You just stick the ratchet end in the plug and hope it comes loose. Mine would not come loose with a 1/2" breaker bar with me working under the car. I could not get enough leverage and the position of the plug would not allow me room to put a cheater pipe over the breaker bar for more leverage. I went to the local Jiffy Lube and they used their underneath the car work bay and a bigger breaker bar to break the nut loose for me, free of charge, which was nice. The plug for the fill hole was also tight, but I was able to break that loose myself. The fill hole is about 2/3 of the way up on the pumpkin and faces the driver side.

Be careful to not strip the plug at home if it is factory tight as mine was. The fit of the ratchet is often not perfect and the work angle is bad.

Ah I see what you mean. I have a 1/2 basic torque wrench for removing lug nuts. However, it was too long to get the angle right. I’ll have to order a 10” 1/2 ratchet handle just for this job. Annoying.

I did catch the fill plug on the other side you mentioned. However, I already was a bit annoyed doing the fuel filter yesterday. I was like f*** this s***, I am not spending my Saturday afternoon wrestling with this lol.

I’m not too worried of the plug being super tight. I sprayed some silicone on there in the meantime until I get to it later in the week.

Remember to try your fill plug first. Because you could run into some trouble if it won't come out

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 24, 2018 5:58 pm

Remember to try your fill plug first. Because you could run into some trouble if it won't come out

Most excellent advice! Once you drain, if the fill plug is impossible to remove, it is not possible to drive that car somewhere to work on it on a lift, etc.

Z

Yeah, the golden rule is to always remove the fill plug first (even though the drain plug is so conveniently placed). I had a 96 Camry that carried a front differential. Almost broke my wrist trying to remove the fill plug.

Otherwise...Tried to do it today, the ratchet was too big for the space. Ordered an extension bar set, but it got too late...so I’ll try again tomorrow. This thing is really pissing me off. They should have just made a dipstick for this s***. Only reason I’m doing it because I know this car has been neglected. Original fuel and cabin air filters, I’m sure the diff hasn’t ever been touched. I won’t be surprised if I only get a couple drops come out lol.

Well after buying an extra extension set, getting the perfect fit and angle with the car jacked up...the fill bolt would not budge. Luckily I didn’t touch the drain plug. Even tried some penetrating lube. I tried with extreme force, every degree and angle possible and it just wouldn’t come off. I was more afraid of the ratchet breaking than the bolt loosening.

It makes me think they didn’t want us to change the diff fluid lol. Plus there was some putty stuff around it, but that peeled off easily. I’m also seeing what appears to be some seepage around the front of it.

I hate when I cant finish projects like this! Just makes me feel like fail, and now I have I chase down a mechanic and ask if they can do it...which could in itself be an all day process. Not to mention, see what tools I can return.

Was a success with valve cover gaskets, fuel filter, and air mix door. Ended up totally stuck at the differential. Unbelievable.

Try some heat with a torch?

Don't give up! You've brought this phoenix from the dead, soon you'll have a perfectly up-to-date car.
Nice catch on the plug

ZiprHead wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 28, 2018 5:59 pm

Try some heat with a torch?

The closest thing I have to that is a lighter lol. Will that work? I was also considering warming the car up, but the rear exhaust pipes could get hot.

This is about as hard as the EGR valve on the 4th gen Maxima. Tight space, rusted all around. But I was able to get that off after a few hours lol.

I think I’m going to break and go with having someone loosen from below lol. The nearest tire shop is 10 miles away, but I’ll have to go 20 miles to a place I know won’t mind doing it. I’ll ask his price to just change the whole fluid, if it’s over $50, I’ll just have him loosen it. I really wanted to do this myself, but I can’t keep taking time doing this everyday. Schedule will be getting tighter than this damn fill bolt!

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 28, 2018 7:38 pm

Don't give up! You've brought this phoenix from the dead, soon you'll have a perfectly up-to-date car.
Nice catch on the plug

It’s pretty much there...I mean it’s come a long way. I just cleaned the leather seats, and it’s looking white now.

Still a little apprehensive about this a/c compressor project, hoping there’s no other leaks. A/C stuff can be a fraud. but I’m getting to a cooler city soon so I’ll be able to buy some time until May or June.

More penetrating oil with an overnight soak time, and maybe a torch are the best ideas I can come up with... Is the differential on the 98 a steel housing or aluminum? Someone who knows more about metal might have ideas on the expansion of the steel bolt vs. the housing would react during a torch session. Torches are relatively inexpensive.. less than $20 at Home Depot and Harbor Freight.

Q451990 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 29, 2018 9:38 am

More penetrating oil with an overnight soak time, and maybe a torch are the best ideas I can come up with... Is the differential on the 98 a steel housing or aluminum? Someone who knows more about metal might have ideas on the expansion of the steel bolt vs. the housing would react during a torch session. Torches are relatively inexpensive.. less than $20 at Home Depot and Harbor Freight.

Thanks for the heads up. Not sure if it’s aluminum or steel, but I think it’s steel. It was rock solid that’s for sure. Idk if the fluid was previously changed, but it had some orange putty around the bolt. I was putting tremendous amounts of force, and I lift weights! s*** was not budging. Almost like how I had to take a strut tower to bang off a sealed on thermostat housing at the junkyard. This car has beat me up more than twice, when it comes down to normally simple tasks lol.

This was a great project for me to get a chance to look at and spray lube every possible rear rubber bushing I could see on the rear. But I caved in and just ended up paying my guy to do it. It was a little more than $50 but less than $100. I was okay with it. I explained to him I just couldn’t get it off myself, so he kinda helped me out.

I would feel cheeky asking to just loosen the bolts. I always feel if I have to give it to a mechanic to do part of the job, I might as well let them do the whole job. Maybe down the line, I’ll try it again on my own. But not for another 50,000 miles atleast. The fluid was dirty, but not metal shavings.

Good to hear you got it done, and you weren't running metal shaving stew in there.