different turbo manifold

[mys13240]

i've had the ssautocrap manifold on my setup. The on i have isnt bad quality, but it places the turbo too damn close to the Brake Master Cylinder. It was actually touching the tip of the master cylinder. This was making my brakes boil after about ten minutes of driving. So i filed off the end of the master cylinder enough to give about a 1/4" clearance and constructed a heat shield out of an old door skin. This helped quite a bit, but the brake pedal was still going down about half way after driving a bit. also the downpipe was a ***** to fit since the turbo sat so far back to the firewall.

I said all this to now say that i need a manifold that

1. Places the turbo closer towards the front of the engine for better BMC clearence and better room for downpipe

2. wont cost me an arm and/or leg.

I was looking at the ETD Racing manifold. NOt too bad on price compared to what ive seen in the past. any comments about this manifold?

or

i was thinking of constructing my own manifold with weld els and having my buddy tig weld it up for me.

Suggestions and/or comments please.

[Chezedik]

I used some hockey pucks to turn the motor away from the BMC, worked like a charm. Then I had my turbo coated. Hope that helps.

EDIT: I am using the SSAC mani, too.
Modified by Chezedik at 11:48 AM 12/19/2006

[NateDogg]

I have the ETD manifold. It's the best design i could find for under $500. I also had the turbine housing ceramic coated and my brakes are fine.

If I were you I'd get the turbine housing ceramic coated and see how much that helps. It works great for me.

[Edub1]

I have the ETD manifold. It's the best design i could find for under $500. I also had the turbine housing ceramic coated and my brakes are fine.

If I were you I'd get the turbine housing ceramic coated and see how much that helps. It works great for me.

Who does this, how much and can the stuff be found in a can?

[Chezedik]

No the stuff cannot be found in a can, because the surface prep is the important part if you want it to last. There is bound to be someone in your town that does it, if I can get it done in Pittsburg ****ing, KS. Just look in the phone book under coatings.

[mys13240]

what are you talking about "hockey pucks". Like actual hockey pucks that you play hockey with? and if i were to set my engine c***-eyed then my transmission would be at an angle and that would not be good on the universal joint on the yoke and my shift pattern wound be c***-eyed also. no offence but i dont want to african american engineer my car. i threw my turbo setup on the first time and half-assed alot of sh*t. This time im taking my time and doing everything right. even if it means spending a little more money its worth it not having it fu*k up again.

[Chezedik]

Yes, actual hockey pucks. I thought the same thing about the trans mount, but I am running the JGS trans mount kit, and have NO problems. It will not affect driveline angles of the U-Joints, since the are only an up or down issue, and by turning them on their side at the same location you only change their angle. They do that 1000 times per minute!It works VERY well for me, and will not cause any issues, but if you would like, maybe we can get C-Kwik in here to give a little better explaination.

[WDRacing]

Am I retarded or is wrapping the turbo and building a proper heat shield not the easiest thing to do here? Buy some thermotech wrap for the DP, buy a turbo blanket for the turbo and use actual heat shield material to seperate the MBC. Even if you get a new mani these are things that will actually make you horse power. Not like one or two, but like 10 simply by reducing under temps. Proper ventilation and cooling are so often over looked.

WD

[mys13240]

i have a great heat shield that i fabricated and am going to have my downpipe and turbine coated with ceramic coating from performance coatings. i am also going to wrap and bag the turbine.

Chezedik - I could use a better explanation of the hockey pucks.

[Chezedik]

Sure, what I did was to take 3 pucks on the exhaust side, and 2 on the other. I wrapped them with duct tape to hold them together. Then I drilled a hole down the center of them. I ran a bolt through it with a washer on the back. Then I put a washer on the thread side, and ran a nut in, once it was in the frame's mount point. Works great, and every bit as stiff as the Nismo mounts. This is not a new trick, and unfortunately I cannot claim credit. Hot Rodder's did this for years to make custom motor mounts. If you still need more info, I will try to help.

[lrb_2000]

i have a great heat shield that i fabricated and am going to have my downpipe and turbine coated with ceramic coating from performance coatings. i am also going to wrap and bag the turbine.

Chezedik - I could use a better explanation of the hockey pucks.

just fill your motor mounts with 3M Window Weld. I did it, and they're stiff as hell.. there's very slight movement when you push the engine with your hand, and it doesn't move at all when it starts up, or when you let off the gas.

[Chezedik]

Well, the thing was that he was looking for clearance. Not necessarily new mounts, that is why I suggested the pucks is that they give you more clearance.

[lrb_2000]

ahh yes.. this is the part where I should pay attention.

[Chezedik]

No worries, had that been the subject, that would be a good suggestion.

[Tulsa_S-13]

Wow, I wasn't aware of too many KA-Ts running around Tulsa. This isn't Abdul is it?

Well, from what I hear the ETD manifold, although bringing the turbo away from the master brake cylinder, makes for a rather tricky downpipe setup (I've just read this from searching around for "ETD manifold" using the search function). Depending on exactly how picky you are about aesthetics you can order a log style manifold from JGStools. Although not the most efficient it is functional and moves the Turbo away from the brake master cylinder. Plus the price kicks ***!

I really need to set up a Nissan meet this winter break before I go back to Stillwater.

[Chezedik]

I am Nick the Chezedik in Pitt. My KA-T isn't running yet, I am still working out a wiring demon I have with the emanage. Aparently, I have no fuel or spark. So obviously, I have a problem in the wire that feeds the CAS signal to the computer. Also, the fuel pump doesn't come on.

But this is just how I was able to clear the MBC. With the coating it will work brilliantly.

[mys13240]

Tulsa-S13 No, im not abdul. Is he the kid with the black hatch w/ white bumper? His whole setup got jacked off his car when he parked it at 51st & Yale. That was at least a few months back. i havent talked to him since i ran into him at Orielly's a 4-5 months ago. I belive i was the second person in Tulsa to do KA-T. When i was a Junior @ Union High (graduated '04) a senior there named Derek Barr had a white Hatch with turbo. at the time my friend tony with a maroon hatch got a r32 rb20det clip. I was hooked on the KA-T so i started piecing things together. My first car was a red '90 hatch with silver "nissan" decals on it. It got t-boned by a stupid 16yo girl turning left into me. I then bought a dark blue '89 hatch that i put the KA24det in.

Chezdik- so you pretty much make motor mounts with the hockey pucks, but make the drivers side less thick so that side of the motor sits lower and vuala-no more problem with bsc/turbine clearance issues?