Besides price, what is the difference between the brands of strut bars? Weight? Sturdiness? Manufacturing quality? Looks?
Like, say there was an APC bar for 40, OBX bar for 60, and an Apexi bar for over 100. Would the performance/quality of the expensive bar be worth the price over the APC or a cheaper strut bar?
difference between strut tower bars
I assume you mean ARC, not APC, APC is a cleaning liquid. Anywho, here is how it goes. STB's (in my experience) are all pretty much the same thing. They are a bar of metal that spans the chassis to tighten it up. As long as it does that, they are pretty much the same. I would buy the OBX if I were you, just to avoid a damnable ARC product. There is one exception though. Some companies are making bars that are more of a triangular shape that attatches to a mounting point on the firewall as well as the strut towers. I would assume this could only strengthen the setup, but it seems the difference would be minimal. I would say go on EBAY and buy one of the generic ones for about $35, or make your own! I am making my own rear bar this afternoon, I'll post results of how it works. Good luck to ya!
http://www.240sx.org has a really good sectino for making your own rear STB, check in the FAQ section, it's where I found out how to make mine!
apc
APC is a cheap brand of autoparts...they sell it at pepboys and autozone and such..dont' waste your money on anything they make-
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MaineExport
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OBX seem to be pretty good! They are heavier than most others I've seen, I don't know if they are any stronger, but they are built very beefy!!! They are also pretty cheap, they fit well and look nice also.
And trpower7.... it is APC not ARC. Their logo kinda looks like an R, but it is indeed P. And it's mostly junk from what I've read.
And trpower7.... it is APC not ARC. Their logo kinda looks like an R, but it is indeed P. And it's mostly junk from what I've read.
Rule 1: You get what you pay for Rule 2: Your car can never be too stiff Rule 3: If the company also sells disk brake simulators, brake paint, neon lights, or altezza tails beware! Unless you have a real hard on to trow a bunch of junky parts on your car I wouldn't evem consider the cheap bars. The Apexi would probably be good or something from Cusco, JIC magic or any other quality company. Personally I'm looking for multi point brace for the front that will mount to the fire wall as well. That should make a very stiff front tub. :sleep
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MaineExport
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boMex, ......
I agree with everything except rule #2! Yes you can be too stiff. There is a point where the suspension needs to flex and absorb centrifical force or the tire will be forced to absorb it and result in skid. This point will increase dramatically with better tires. But no matter how good they are, a controlled amount of body roll, and suspension flex is required for optimal handling. Otherwise, the best handling cars wouldn't have a suspension at all, they would all be go-karts!
I agree with everything except rule #2! Yes you can be too stiff. There is a point where the suspension needs to flex and absorb centrifical force or the tire will be forced to absorb it and result in skid. This point will increase dramatically with better tires. But no matter how good they are, a controlled amount of body roll, and suspension flex is required for optimal handling. Otherwise, the best handling cars wouldn't have a suspension at all, they would all be go-karts!
A strut tower bar has nothing to do with body roll, and stiffening the chassis with an STB allows the suspension to work without the position of the strut mounting points changing. Your body roll is controlled by your shock/spring combo and swaybars. In conclusion: your chassis can never be too stiff but your suspension can. And the Whiteline STB from PDM is a good one!maineimport wrote:I agree with everything except rule #2! Yes you can be too stiff. ... a controlled amount of body roll, and suspension flex is required for optimal handling.
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MaineExport
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Not to be a ****, but I never said an STB has to do with body roll. And boMex DID say that your "CAR" can never be too stiff! He never specified what he meant, and now you're putting words in my mouth. Your "car" can be too stiff, and that is the point I was making... I never even mentioned STB's in my post! As I said, body roll and suspension travel are not ALL bad, you need a certain amount of give. If you're going to disagree with my post, at least give me the courtesy of reading it!Cam wrote:
A strut tower bar has nothing to do with body roll, and stiffening the chassis with an STB allows the suspension to work without the position of the strut mounting points changing. Your body roll is controlled by your shock/spring combo and swaybars. In conclusion: your chassis can never be too stiff but your suspension can. And the Whiteline STB from PDM is a good one!
My apologies, but I did read your post. I assumed that since every post so far was on the topic "difference between strut tower bars," including boMex's, that you would actually be addressing that topic. My mistake...maineimport wrote:If you're going to disagree with my post, at least give me the courtesy of reading it!
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MaineExport
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Okay, I guess I deserve a petty, sarcastic, BS come back like that! Give me a ****ing break. I already posted about my opinion regarding STB's earlier. I guess it's improper to correct a statement that another member makes, for fear of being "off topic"! And if you want to be picky, no not every post has been about STB's! God forbid someone wants to talk about something ever-so-slightly off the specific designated topic.... geeezzz. I'm such a loser!Cam wrote:
My apologies, but I did read your post. I assumed that since every post so far was on the topic "difference between strut tower bars," including boMex's, that you would actually be addressing that topic. My mistake...
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180crafter
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Rigid and Carbing are the only two co. i know of. I don't have their sites right now but they're not hard to find. They are called triangulated bars, and if your going to spend the money, you might as well get the best:D.180crafter wrote:Speaking of STB's, does any one know where to find one of those STB's that attach to the firewall?
:help
thanks...
Rick
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cnichols
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I'm glad to know someone makes them for the 240. I've seen them on Mustangs, but never even thought to look for one. I remember that a triangle is the strongest geometrical shape, so it makes sense that a triangulated bar would be stronger besides the simple fact that it mounts at three points instead of two.
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MaineExport
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I haven't taken geometry in 11 years... but isn't the cylinder the strongest shape?..... just curious. And the "I" beam is the most rigid laterally.cnichols wrote:I'm glad to know someone makes them for the 240. I've seen them on Mustangs, but never even thought to look for one. I remember that a triangle is the strongest geometrical shape, so it makes sense that a triangulated bar would be stronger besides the simple fact that it mounts at three points instead of two.
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GoofyATX240
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cnichols
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I was always told from a construction standpoint that the triangle is the strongest geometrical figure. If you notice, most bridges are made with "connected" triangles. Look at the structure of a bridge the next time you cross a big river.maineimport wrote:
I haven't taken geometry in 11 years... but isn't the cylinder the strongest shape?..... just curious. And the "I" beam is the most rigid laterally.
I just really don't see how you would make a cylinder shaped strut tower brace either.
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MaineExport
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I was just tossing out ideas. But MOST bridges are built with several "I" beams across the span, and then rebar and concrete poured over top. The cylinder can supprort more weigh than a triangle. The triangle is a better reinforcement structurally speaking,... but those bars that make up the triangle...... are cylinders!
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MaineExport
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MaineExport
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