ok, somebody shoot me for cross posting, but this forum is more active than the skyline forum.
first question.
are the differences between the R32 and R33 GTR great enough to warrant paying more for the r33 clip, or is it basically the same. obviously i dont car about the car, i mean the motor.
second
is the booster on the skyline master cylinder [clutch] really needed? or is it there for the hell of it.
difference between r32,33 question
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rbsileighty
- Posts: 1694
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:10 am
- Car: 92 S13 Hatch w/ RB20 & 05 Audi S4 Avant 6MT
Unless you are going awd, then they are more or less the same motor... just one is younger.
If you are going awd the attessa systems are fairly different. For the best system the R32 would be recommended (unless you could afford a R34 setup). I have been told by overseas turners the 32 and 34 control system is interchangeable, and you can use the processor for teh 34 in the 32. The 33 is the only one out of the three that requires the removal of the front driveshaft to disable awd, while (I've been told) the 32 and 34 only require the fwd control unit to be unplugged. This is just one example of the difference between the systems.
Granted, I do not own GTR... so take this as you will. Again, I have heard of a few of overseas guys switching out the 32 attessa system for the 34's, and I am 99% sure the 33's setup is very different than the other two gens.
As far as the clutch MS, use the one from the GTR. As an engineer... I would say it has a booster there for a reason.
Hope this helps.
You putting a RB in your J30? If so... you are the second person i've heard of who wanted to do this besides me... crazy.
If you are going awd the attessa systems are fairly different. For the best system the R32 would be recommended (unless you could afford a R34 setup). I have been told by overseas turners the 32 and 34 control system is interchangeable, and you can use the processor for teh 34 in the 32. The 33 is the only one out of the three that requires the removal of the front driveshaft to disable awd, while (I've been told) the 32 and 34 only require the fwd control unit to be unplugged. This is just one example of the difference between the systems.
Granted, I do not own GTR... so take this as you will. Again, I have heard of a few of overseas guys switching out the 32 attessa system for the 34's, and I am 99% sure the 33's setup is very different than the other two gens.
As far as the clutch MS, use the one from the GTR. As an engineer... I would say it has a booster there for a reason.
Hope this helps.
You putting a RB in your J30? If so... you are the second person i've heard of who wanted to do this besides me... crazy.
yup. ive been studing the r32 gtr service manual, and the front drive is connected through a clutch pack and drive chain, so it has no effect on the rear drive wheels.
thank you for answering my question, i was worried if one version had a substantially stronger motor than another. i would really like a r34 setup just for the 6 speed, but im gonna toss the turbos, gonna need a custom exhaust, and im not going AWD, so all the goodies id be paying extra for i would wind up not using. that would be one hell of a waste of money. im sure everyone would love to see a 6 speed awd J30, but im not even gonna start trying to make it awd. im gonna have enough trouble as it is with the rest of it.
also, what im contemplating is using the gtr transmission in rear drive [removing the front driveshaft, drive chain, and differential from the oil pan] and converting to manual. seeing as how the J30 is a front sump oilpan setup now, its gonna work out on that end.
basically my outline that im gonna work with-z32 iron calipers, rotors, ss lines, 1" master cylindercustom stainless dual 2.5 inch exhaust with dual N1 style muffleraluminum radiator [transmission cooler omitted]gtr or upgraded FMICcustom fabbed motor and transmission mounts, driveshaftKAAZ 1.5 way lsdhicas eliminationmanual transmission/gtr or z32 brake and clutch pedals/bracketsrb26dett, gt2530 turbines**, 660 or 720 cc injectors, walbro FP{metal head gasket, HKS cams [undecided]}unsure on wheels, but 17 inch front/rear with 255/40-17 rearsslightly stiffer rear sway bar from non-touring modelstock ride hight.
**[if anybody cares, i can get garrett gt turbos about the same specs as gt2530 for half the price. they are stock mazda protege turbos. two bolt compressor in/three bolt compressor out|t25 flange/5 bolt exhaust housing]-and they are brand new. ask for info if your interested
im sure i left out somethings, but that should do a good job of making me broke.
if all goes well and i get it completed, it should be running by late spring.
edit- i left out the ECU. im undecided on which way to go with that.
thank you for answering my question, i was worried if one version had a substantially stronger motor than another. i would really like a r34 setup just for the 6 speed, but im gonna toss the turbos, gonna need a custom exhaust, and im not going AWD, so all the goodies id be paying extra for i would wind up not using. that would be one hell of a waste of money. im sure everyone would love to see a 6 speed awd J30, but im not even gonna start trying to make it awd. im gonna have enough trouble as it is with the rest of it.
also, what im contemplating is using the gtr transmission in rear drive [removing the front driveshaft, drive chain, and differential from the oil pan] and converting to manual. seeing as how the J30 is a front sump oilpan setup now, its gonna work out on that end.
basically my outline that im gonna work with-z32 iron calipers, rotors, ss lines, 1" master cylindercustom stainless dual 2.5 inch exhaust with dual N1 style muffleraluminum radiator [transmission cooler omitted]gtr or upgraded FMICcustom fabbed motor and transmission mounts, driveshaftKAAZ 1.5 way lsdhicas eliminationmanual transmission/gtr or z32 brake and clutch pedals/bracketsrb26dett, gt2530 turbines**, 660 or 720 cc injectors, walbro FP{metal head gasket, HKS cams [undecided]}unsure on wheels, but 17 inch front/rear with 255/40-17 rearsslightly stiffer rear sway bar from non-touring modelstock ride hight.
**[if anybody cares, i can get garrett gt turbos about the same specs as gt2530 for half the price. they are stock mazda protege turbos. two bolt compressor in/three bolt compressor out|t25 flange/5 bolt exhaust housing]-and they are brand new. ask for info if your interested
im sure i left out somethings, but that should do a good job of making me broke.
if all goes well and i get it completed, it should be running by late spring.
edit- i left out the ECU. im undecided on which way to go with that.
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rbsileighty
- Posts: 1694
- Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:10 am
- Car: 92 S13 Hatch w/ RB20 & 05 Audi S4 Avant 6MT
the r33 gtr has a strong crank shaft than the r32 gtr you can modify the r32 gtr (rb 26 ) crank shaft to the same or simlar spec. this relates to oil flow and the ability of the motor to rev higher safely.also the fact that the motor is new helps.you can modify the stock r32 gtr ecu and one wil also work with an r33 motor you need a rom reader and burner and the address files which are avaliable on the net. you do need to retain afms though. the gt2530 is a very different turbo from the hks variety remember that.
personally I would go r33 motor running and r32 ecu or even a power fc its all plug and play rather than having the hassle and cost of a re wire. if you are planning on doing track ie circut work make sure your sump oil pan has suffient baffels so you dont suffer oil starvation and oil cooling.
cheersmeggala
btw you wil be frying those 255's
personally I would go r33 motor running and r32 ecu or even a power fc its all plug and play rather than having the hassle and cost of a re wire. if you are planning on doing track ie circut work make sure your sump oil pan has suffient baffels so you dont suffer oil starvation and oil cooling.
cheersmeggala
btw you wil be frying those 255's
stronger powerwise or durability? i was considering an aftermarket oil pump because ive heard some stories about them grenading with the stocker.
oh yeah, those 255 are gonna be toast. im gonna keep the power as low as possible most of the time, cranking it up for highway racing or spinning the rears down to a pile of little rubber bits.
an aftermarket ecu is defiantly in the works. as i said, im concentrating on a solidly built motor more than an all out racer.
if i can bump the boost and catch 450-500 whp once in a while, its just a plus. ill probably keep it at 12 psi 90% of the time.im trying more to do something original, than make an 11 second beast.
also, what makes the staright garrett's different from the HKS units?
i dont think it would be a problem, because im going to have to have downpipes fabbed, and also most likely IC piping, unless i can massage the gtr's piping in.
i also forgot the twin Z32 mafs.
oh yeah, those 255 are gonna be toast. im gonna keep the power as low as possible most of the time, cranking it up for highway racing or spinning the rears down to a pile of little rubber bits.
an aftermarket ecu is defiantly in the works. as i said, im concentrating on a solidly built motor more than an all out racer.
if i can bump the boost and catch 450-500 whp once in a while, its just a plus. ill probably keep it at 12 psi 90% of the time.im trying more to do something original, than make an 11 second beast.
also, what makes the staright garrett's different from the HKS units?
i dont think it would be a problem, because im going to have to have downpipes fabbed, and also most likely IC piping, unless i can massage the gtr's piping in.
i also forgot the twin Z32 mafs.
rbsileighty wrote:I think I have an idea about how much power you are going to put out, and personally... I would not go with anything less than a Supra/GTR fuel pump. I'm not so sure the Walbro will cut it for what you are looking for. Sounds like a neat car.
even though i wouldnt be maxing all the time, it better to have the overhead. the gtr's fuel pump flows more than 255 lph?
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sachmo12345
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2003 12:57 pm
- Car: 1994 Infiniti Q45a
1995 Nissan Maxima SE - Contact:
thank you guys so much for the info. i like doing things right the first time, instead of spending twice as much with trial and error.being in america, i have zero experience with the rb's and need all the tips and tricks i can get my hands on.
thats why i put my outline up for scrutiny. need to know whats good.
i dont have a problem with wiring at all, actually electrical is my specialty.
also, what would you suggest for a set of cams? or would i even need them?also, the metal head gasket, im assuming would be mandatory for the motor's sake.
any suggestions on an oil pump? or would the stocker be sufficient for my goals?
the turbo's i want to run are slightly smaller than 2530's [same power rating, the difference is minimal]
like i said, twin 2.5 inch exhaust [equal to a single 3.5"]and i would be shooting for a constant 350-400 whp, with the occasional blast at 500. -[REAL optimistic] I cant wait till i start breaking axles [if i bolt on some gummies]
thats why i put my outline up for scrutiny. need to know whats good.
i dont have a problem with wiring at all, actually electrical is my specialty.
also, what would you suggest for a set of cams? or would i even need them?also, the metal head gasket, im assuming would be mandatory for the motor's sake.
any suggestions on an oil pump? or would the stocker be sufficient for my goals?
the turbo's i want to run are slightly smaller than 2530's [same power rating, the difference is minimal]
like i said, twin 2.5 inch exhaust [equal to a single 3.5"]and i would be shooting for a constant 350-400 whp, with the occasional blast at 500. -[REAL optimistic] I cant wait till i start breaking axles [if i bolt on some gummies]
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mark slide squad
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2003 5:26 pm
- Car: Drift, Touge, etc.
I'm not sure that the GTR trans is going to fit in your trans tunnel. its a big trans! Your best option is to use a RB25DET transmission, they are plenty strong enough, many tuners in Japan love these trans because they can take over 800+hp. All of the RWD RB26 swaps i've seen, people use the RB25 trans as well. For fuel management I would go with Power FC. I love it on my RB25. Its very easy to use, and very flexible, since it controls pretty much everything you could ever want. Sounds like an interesting project. Even if you are at stock height, might wanna get some upgraded shocks and springs at least 
Good lucK!
Mark
Good lucK!Mark
the rb25 transmission is considerably smaller? i figured i could make the AWD transmission fit, and also if i ever need one, they would be easy to find, because nobody wants them [in america]
my best bet would be to pick up the rb25 transmission incase the 26 doesnt fit, and sell the leftover. is there a difference in the input shaft of the rb25 trans and rb26 trans?
the power fc is what i was considering the most, because of its plug and play, and i have a local tuner who will work with it.
also, the touring model has a higher spring rate than normal, but i might have to figure out an upgrade path. noone makes aftermarket units for a j, so that something ill need to work on. its got the vg30de in it with an auto, so its not exactly light.im not going autox'ing or anything like that. it will be street with the occasional dragstrip day. im not trying to make a racecar, just something original with an exotic drivetrain and way too much power.
its more for my personal amusement then trying to dominate the street. [well, maybe a little]
my best bet would be to pick up the rb25 transmission incase the 26 doesnt fit, and sell the leftover. is there a difference in the input shaft of the rb25 trans and rb26 trans?
the power fc is what i was considering the most, because of its plug and play, and i have a local tuner who will work with it.
also, the touring model has a higher spring rate than normal, but i might have to figure out an upgrade path. noone makes aftermarket units for a j, so that something ill need to work on. its got the vg30de in it with an auto, so its not exactly light.im not going autox'ing or anything like that. it will be street with the occasional dragstrip day. im not trying to make a racecar, just something original with an exotic drivetrain and way too much power.
its more for my personal amusement then trying to dominate the street. [well, maybe a little]
yeah, ive decided that the sledge hammer isnt invited to this party, so im gonna go with the rb25's transmission. i took some measurements, and that awd transmission would take a crapload of persuation. also, the transmission crossmember would be a nightmare to try to integrate to the J. the rb25's transmission is alot closer, i could mod the J's transmission mount/member to fit the 25 transmission.Since the J uses the 300zx N/A auto, the yoke might be similar. i havent checked that out yet, the driveshaft is the least of my concern.
and thank you for clearing up the FP issue, i was a little skeptical of that.
you think the walbro would be enough to support the occasional 20-22 psi?
i gotta do the math on the BSFC.
and thank you for clearing up the FP issue, i was a little skeptical of that.
you think the walbro would be enough to support the occasional 20-22 psi?
i gotta do the math on the BSFC.