DIF Fan Controller Problem????

[positron1]

My fans operate fine with the manual switch but when I disconnect it the fans have yet to come on by themselves. I've set them to the lowest setting and let the water temp get up to 180 degrees and no fans. I have the wiring on the coolant temp sensor plug like they have it on FRSport.com only my SR coolant temp sensor wires are different colors. Instead of the blue w/ orange, blue w/ black, and black...I have red, white and black. I naturally assume that the black is negative so I have the gray fan wire tapped into it. I'm assuming that the red wire is positive so I have the white wire tapped into it. Could I be wrong on that one, could the white wire be positive instead of the red? Am I not letting the engine run long enough...I've been shutting it down early because I don't want it to overheat and risk my headgasket. Any of you guys that have this fan controller on your SR and you have the same wire colors as me...which wires did you tap? I want to get this thing to operate the fans itself instead of just relying on that manual switch, I mean what's the point of having this fan controller, I could have just made my own manual switch!

[shift_SRDETuser]

My fans operate fine with the manual switch but when I disconnect it the fans have yet to come on by themselves. I've set them to the lowest setting and let the water temp get up to 180 degrees and no fans. I have the wiring on the coolant temp sensor plug like they have it on FRSport.com only my SR coolant temp sensor wires are different colors. Instead of the blue w/ orange, blue w/ black, and black...I have red, white and black. I naturally assume that the black is negative so I have the gray fan wire tapped into it. I'm assuming that the red wire is positive so I have the white wire tapped into it. Could I be wrong on that one, could the white wire be positive instead of the red? Am I not letting the engine run long enough...I've been shutting it down early because I don't want it to overheat and risk my headgasket. Any of you guys that have this fan controller on your SR and you have the same wire colors as me...which wires did you tap? I want to get this thing to operate the fans itself instead of just relying on that manual switch, I mean what's the point of having this fan controller, I could have just made my own manual switch!

more than likely the splice connectors you used to get through the wires did not make a good solid connection. I used a razor blade and made a fine cut of the insulation rubber around the wire separated them like 1 mm and then used the splices. You want to make sure they have a true wire to wire connection.

[japslapsilvia]

hmm i just looked at your built thread to see whats going on. a few things come to mind.

where did you make the connection for the CTS? at the sensor? and as far as the wire color being wrong...look at the other side of the gray 3 pin plug (IE the harness side) they should be correct.

im thinking that eithor your "tap" isnt making a good contact, OR that b/c you tapped on the on the wrong side of the connector you may have gotten the feed for the other temp sensor (cluster) instead of the ground.

i would check the other side of the plug, b/c then you should see the correct wire colors

GL

[positron1]

You know what, I was thinking about that after the fact because earlier I had removed the harness and the DiF wiring, took the taps off and it looked as though they hadn't sliced all the way through the red and black wire covering but like a dumb@$$ I didn't act on it and put them back. Thanks for the headsup man! By the way, where your wires red, black and white on your coolant temp sensor or did you have the other colors?

[positron1]

hmm i just looked at your built thread to see whats going on. a few things come to mind.

where did you make the connection for the CTS? at the sensor? and as far as the wire color being wrong...look at the other side of the gray 3 pin plug (IE the harness side) they should be correct.

im thinking that eithor your "tap" isnt making a good contact, OR that b/c you tapped on the on the wrong side of the connector you may have gotten the feed for the other temp sensor (cluster) instead of the ground.

i would check the other side of the plug, b/c then you should see the correct wire colors

GL

Yeah, I had originally had the taps on the actual coolant temp sensor wires itself but moved them to the ECU plug like on FRSport. And you guys are right about the taps probably not making a good contact. I'm going to remove it and shave some of that sheath off and try that today. THANKS!!!! I'm gonna try that other side as well too!

[japslapsilvia]

i would suggest getting rid of the tap all togather, cut wires, solder and heat shrink....that will save you head aches later down the road and give you a trouble free connection....

[shift_SRDETuser]

the taps work fine if they make the proper connection. I have been running them for over 2 months now. The two wire temp sensor is what you want to tap into. The other one wire thing goes to the temp gauge cluster.

[japslapsilvia]

the taps work fine if they make the proper connection.

thats the problemif you use those all the time...and say one or 2 dont make a proper connection then good luck trouble shooting.....do it right the 1st time.....SAVES time and effort later down the road.

[splintercell]

does anyone have any problems with fans staying on longer than 2 minutes after you cut car off? i just dont want battery dying from the fans staying on for 3-4 min. i wasnt even driving the car just testing the controller out @ idle.

[shift_SRDETuser]

does anyone have any problems with fans staying on longer than 2 minutes after you cut car off? i just dont want battery dying from the fans staying on for 3-4 min. i wasnt even driving the car just testing the controller out @ idle.

I had a problem with them cycling like that and they would not cut off. Killed my battery one evening of which I had to get a jump. I sent the dif pos back to fr and they said it tested out fine. So I sold the pos dif thing and wired the fans straight to the battery with an in line fuse rated at 30 amps and a manual switch in the cabin ....

[splintercell]

it stayed on for 8 f@ckin minutes before it turned off. wtf! im calling them tomorrow...other than that it operates fine

[positron1]

Something is definitely wrong because the instructions say up to two minutes no more.

[positron1]

And by the way I forgot to update this thread after I found the answer to my problem....

Well, after many attempts I got the DiF fan controller to control the fans the way it was meant to, thus stopping me from using the manual control switch to run both fans all the time and burning up the fan motors. Let me tell you what Nissan did with the wire colors on this setup. When I first fixed the grounds and got the fans to respond to the manual switch I was happy but I really wanted this fan controller to do what it was promised to do so over the past four or five weeks I've been trying to figure out what the problem was. I pulled the fan wiring six or seven times examining the connections and redoing the wiring and got no results, the fans never worked without the manual switch. Well it turns out the colors of the wiring on the coolant temp harness that I have are different from the colors on the one shown on FRSports install.This is how the wires are on the SR20DET harness on FRSports DiF fan install. They clearly show the three wires to be blue w/ orange, blue w/ black, and black. The harnesses must be from different year models or something because the colors on my coolant temp harness are as follows...Red, white and black. I naturally assumed that the red would be positive, the black negative and the white being the wire that goes to the temp gauge sender for the console....BOY WAS I WRONG!!!! I was at my wits end trying to figure this out so the other night as I was looking at some old pics of my harness I decided to pull the fan harness and remove some covering on the coolant temp plug and see which of these three wires went to it and it turned out to be the white and black wires going to the coolant temp sensor while the red wire branched off to the coolant temp gauge sender. So I pulled the tap that I had on the red wire which I thought was positive and put that on the white wire which seemed to be positive...nothing. I was at a loss, the next step to fix this problem was to buy a multimeter, something which I should have done a long time ago but I got a tip from a forum member on 240SXforums(beyondstock is his name) that the wires were reversed and it turned out to be true. FOR ANYONE THAT HAS THIS PROBLEM AND THE SAME COLOR HARNESS AS ME THE WIRES ARE AS FOLLOWS...RED-TO GAUGE SENSOR UNIT GOING TO THE CONSOLE IN THE CABINWHITE-NEGATIVE GOING TO THE COOLANT TEMP SENSORBLACK-POSITIVE GOING TO THE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR.

It's cold today but I just went outside, set both fans to 150 degrees, started the car, let it get warmed up and both fans came on under control of the DiF fan controller and when I turned the car off both fans ran for a short time like the instructions say...so problem, "long sigh" solved!!!!

[splintercell]

i went out and drove car today and fan turned on like it should. turned off car and fan stayed on for 10min.

i finish my car up and i have this stupid thing not working right. no return email back from them either