Did my knock sensors today...

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Lokim
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The car is a completely different animal! Both old KS were cracked from keel to deck, and were dead. I'll post pics of them before too long. I cheated on the plenum removal, though. I just undid a few hoses and the EGR tube and propped her plenum up w/ a screwdriver and did the KS. I put it back together with new plenum seals and cleared the adaptives w/ my scanner and off I went. Came back from the test drive grinning like an idiot. WAY more power!!! :woot:


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Skibane
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DEFINITELY looking forward to the pix!

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Lokim
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Here they are:

Image

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BadQ45t
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They lasted over 200k, WOW. I plan to do mine along with coil packs at 100k when I do plugs. I figure that sets me up for another 5 years when I plan to find a M56 coming off lease return. I drove in a M54 this week, WOWWWWWWWW!!! I am finally in love with another Infiniti. I have seen a few posts that it doesn't feel like a flagship, well you know, it is a little smaller and tighter, but when my buddy punched it that thing is way different than any Infiniti EVER. I am also intersted in driving a M35 Hybrid.

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Lokim
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BadQ45t wrote:They lasted over 200k, WOW.
Actually, I've been a bad boy. They've been throwing codes since around 195K. I haven't had the time or money for them until just now.

BTW, I can get GENUINE NISSAN knock sensors (22060-30P00) for a great price through work. I can get them to you for $75 each shipped...

PM me for info...

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ThatsMyQ2Go
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Lokim wrote:The car is a completely different animal! Both old KS were cracked from keel to deck, and were dead. I'll post pics of them before too long. I cheated on the plenum removal, though. I just undid a few hoses and the EGR tube and propped her plenum up w/ a screwdriver and did the KS. I put it back together with new plenum seals and cleared the adaptives w/ my scanner and off I went. Came back from the test drive grinning like an idiot. WAY more power!!! :woot:
I too need to do my knock sensors, is there any way you can do a write up on this? I have basic knowledge of cars and servicing them, but from what a few buddies of mine have told me Infiniti's are a "whole nother beast"

Also what was the total cost and rough time estimate using the Plenum lift method?

maxnix
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Look at paranoid jack's post.

There is no plenum lift method, and the removing the alternator snarky method leaves a whole host of plenum issues unaddressed.

masshead87
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I'm intrigued by this abbreviated procedure, since in my case I've only got one KS throwing codes and I'm fairly sure it was due to my several-month span of filling up with 89 octane.
Lokim, could you identify which hoses you had to pull from the codes on the under plenum diagram?

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Lokim
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masshead87 wrote:I'm intrigued by this abbreviated procedure, since in my case I've only got one KS throwing codes and I'm fairly sure it was due to my several-month span of filling up with 89 octane.
Lokim, could you identify which hoses you had to pull from the codes on the under plenum diagram?
While I don't recommend doing it this way, I know that the plenum had been off a year and a half or so ago for 2 injectors prior to my ownership. I inspected the hoses and all seemed well, so I proceeded with the "abbreviated procedure" as you so eloquently put it.

I started by draining the radiator and engine block. The radiator drains via a petcock on the passenger side. The block drain is a 22mm hex-head plug on the driver's side of the block, above the crossmember. There's really no neat way to drain it, so get your catch pan positioned, get the plug loose, and get out of the way! I drained the block because A: I didn't want a valley full of coolant, and B: I hadn't changed the coolant since I got the car.

I then disconnected the hard line to the EGR valve, the plenum-to-valve cover breather hoses, the throttle body coolant lines, and several electrical connectors.

I unbolted the plenum itself and pulled up a bit. You'll see what needs disconnection and what doesn't when you reach this step. Once I got enough upward play that I could prop up and work under the plenum, I plugged the intake runners with paper towels.

Now comes the fun part! I loosened the hose clamp for the coolant pipe-to-water pump outlet and got my special hose-freeing tool in there to get the hose free from the fitting. Then I unbolted the coolant crossover and finagled it out from it's spot (not easy.)

After that, the knock sensors are a breeze. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU TORQUE THE KNOCK SENSORS TO SPEC! THIS IS CRITICAL!!! 12-15ft-lbs (I put mine at 14ft-lbs)

When you reinstall the coolant crossover, make sure both mating surfaces are SPOTLESS! Apply a bead of black or gray RTV to the crossover pipe-to-head mating surface not only on the pipe you removed, but the head surfaces as well. The reason for this is that when you maneuver the crossover assy. back in, you WILL scrape some of the RTV off, and having some on the head surface will make up for that.

Reverse all previous steps for reassembly, making sure to torque the plenum bolts to spec. Wait an hour or two before refilling cooling system so the silicone can set, bleed cooling system, and off you go! :cool:

rkleff
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Lokim wrote:
BadQ45t wrote:They lasted over 200k, WOW.
Actually, I've been a bad boy. They've been throwing codes since around 195K. I haven't had the time or money for them until just now.

BTW, I can get GENUINE NISSAN knock sensors (22060-30P00) for a great price through work. I can get them to you for $75 each shipped...

PM me for info...
:chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
Just to let you guys know that I contacted Lokim about getting some knock sensors because the best deal I could find was way more than $75 each. Yesterday I received two GENUINE NISSAN knock sensors (22060-30P00) brand new. Lokim is a great guy to deal with and if you need some knock sensors, this is a killer deal! Send him a PM.


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