Talk about a hard time. I cannot find one of these locally. Everyone gives me a blank stare. They may carry it but I just did not describe it as "a gage looking thing that has a tip on it that moves and makes the needle on the dial move." I do not think that any other these people have ever seen a measuring device other than a ruler.
Want to do my break job the best I can, found a place on line for $38 delivered. I know it is not high quality but the increments allow for proper inspection.
What do you think or do you any other suggestions
http://www.autospecialtytools.....dht&
Found a hand vacuum pump and fuel pressure gage set up for less than 40 each also locally.
Dial indicator and stand
Hey, I just ordered one of these last night! Similar anyway. I saw a "measurements" video in my shop class last night. In it, they recommended using a dial indicator that has the flexible locking shaft. Quicker to set up.http://www.thetoolwarehouse.ne...l#392I bought the Fowler model with the mag base.
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Q45tech
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- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Once you measure the rotor runout [after trueing as mounted on the hub], then you get to match mount [try the 5 various positions on the wheel studs] or just order the Brake Align shims for Nissan [0.003, 0.006. or 0.009] that fit over the hub to correct the runout.
Getting a less than 0.0028" runout is a challange [I try for 0.001" max] but the vibration reduction is so worth while.......you can apply brakes at 80 mph and not feel anything [other than tire roundness error or balance as you decelerate thru 70-60 mph resonant point [body stiffness frequency vs tire circumference].
Very few people want to pay extra for a precision brake runout job as it takes an extra 1.5 hours and adds $150-$200. Even measuring the runout is not part of the dealer standard brake job!The rears require 2 people [one to measure and the other to turn the opposite wheel].
Then again some skip the rears as you only feel the vibration in the seat as a fore aft movement when decelerating....much less annoying than the steering wheel vibration and quiver.
Some of the non braking steering wheel quiver is from the out of true rotor compressing the brake pad as it turns mixed with tire problems.
Once you have the front rotors perfect all that remains is tires/wheels.
Getting a less than 0.0028" runout is a challange [I try for 0.001" max] but the vibration reduction is so worth while.......you can apply brakes at 80 mph and not feel anything [other than tire roundness error or balance as you decelerate thru 70-60 mph resonant point [body stiffness frequency vs tire circumference].
Very few people want to pay extra for a precision brake runout job as it takes an extra 1.5 hours and adds $150-$200. Even measuring the runout is not part of the dealer standard brake job!The rears require 2 people [one to measure and the other to turn the opposite wheel].
Then again some skip the rears as you only feel the vibration in the seat as a fore aft movement when decelerating....much less annoying than the steering wheel vibration and quiver.
Some of the non braking steering wheel quiver is from the out of true rotor compressing the brake pad as it turns mixed with tire problems.
Once you have the front rotors perfect all that remains is tires/wheels.
What shape are the shims? Is there a problem with warpage as you will never have the rotor flat to the hub? do you need to use a few .003 and the a .006 to try to level it out?
I really am trying to do this car right. It is so nice and I really annot trust anyone around me for most repairs. I guess it will make me a better shade tree mechanic and allow me to kee this car much longer than financially possible before.
I also decided to try adlldatadiy and found some other valuable info which will help me diagnose my hesitation.
I really am trying to do this car right. It is so nice and I really annot trust anyone around me for most repairs. I guess it will make me a better shade tree mechanic and allow me to kee this car much longer than financially possible before.
I also decided to try adlldatadiy and found some other valuable info which will help me diagnose my hesitation.
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...=5645h ... /c...r=623
Same products, aren't they? A bit cheaper at harbor freight. If your order totals 39.99 or more, use the following coupon to get $5 off AND free standard shipping: 463-565-743 Expires 5/1/03.
Same products, aren't they? A bit cheaper at harbor freight. If your order totals 39.99 or more, use the following coupon to get $5 off AND free standard shipping: 463-565-743 Expires 5/1/03.
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Q451990
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- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
- Location: Columbia, SC
- Contact:
Tech...
I didn't see shims for the rears on the Brake Align site. Are you using something else, or turning the rears the old fashioned way? I might try to get one of those dial indicators at my local Harbor Freight.
Also, it looks like the kit they sell has a lot of stuff I don't need for the Q... will they sell just the Q shims to an individual, or do I need to bribe someone to get them separately?
Heath
I didn't see shims for the rears on the Brake Align site. Are you using something else, or turning the rears the old fashioned way? I might try to get one of those dial indicators at my local Harbor Freight.
Also, it looks like the kit they sell has a lot of stuff I don't need for the Q... will they sell just the Q shims to an individual, or do I need to bribe someone to get them separately?
Heath
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Gotta be careful to buy quality if you expect the device to last and only the unit with visegrips and flexi/locking rod seems to be able to convolute itself into the proper angles.
I can assure you getting it set up rigid takes more time than measuring.......because you must use all 5 lugnuts [torqued to same as you would a wheel] to hold the machine quasi trued rotor in place.
Lots of problems with brake lathes as rust [on inside of rotors] or bent mounting accessories can make it hard to true the rotor perfectly.............is the mounted rotor on the lathe rotating perfectly parallel?
Almost every rotor we buy out of the box has bent during shipping from Japan or Germany.........most of the time the oem Infiniti are in spec..........but far from perfect.
You have a 1 in 5 chance of installing then in spec without measuring things because the rust on the hubs can bring them out of spec.....there is a proceedure for fine wire brushing the hubs [and inside of rotor hats] shinny........whenever you have iron and aluminum alloy wheels in contact you get some minor corrosion.
You will just have to find who stocks them [shims] locally [Nissan 5x114.3 are new and rarer as the biggest users are GM dealers to avoid doing on car lathing].
On the car lathing works fine but once you get the hubs shimmed correctly you can just remount the newly trued rotors in the same [wheel lug] position at least a few times [measure to be sure you are still in spec]!
If you set your rotors perfectly [under 0.001"] you will double or triple the time before you feel the warp...........many Q [and all other cars] leave the brake shop grossly out of spec after paying for rotor replacement.
I can assure you getting it set up rigid takes more time than measuring.......because you must use all 5 lugnuts [torqued to same as you would a wheel] to hold the machine quasi trued rotor in place.
Lots of problems with brake lathes as rust [on inside of rotors] or bent mounting accessories can make it hard to true the rotor perfectly.............is the mounted rotor on the lathe rotating perfectly parallel?
Almost every rotor we buy out of the box has bent during shipping from Japan or Germany.........most of the time the oem Infiniti are in spec..........but far from perfect.
You have a 1 in 5 chance of installing then in spec without measuring things because the rust on the hubs can bring them out of spec.....there is a proceedure for fine wire brushing the hubs [and inside of rotor hats] shinny........whenever you have iron and aluminum alloy wheels in contact you get some minor corrosion.
You will just have to find who stocks them [shims] locally [Nissan 5x114.3 are new and rarer as the biggest users are GM dealers to avoid doing on car lathing].
On the car lathing works fine but once you get the hubs shimmed correctly you can just remount the newly trued rotors in the same [wheel lug] position at least a few times [measure to be sure you are still in spec]!
If you set your rotors perfectly [under 0.001"] you will double or triple the time before you feel the warp...........many Q [and all other cars] leave the brake shop grossly out of spec after paying for rotor replacement.
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.ne....html
Just order this one to quit borrowing one from the techs.
The visegrip type is better than the magnetic because many of the newer cars have aluminum suspension parts. What about measuring something on an all aluminum engine......guess having an Extra magnetic base might come in handy also.................when you start you will see how time consumming it is to get the dial indicator rigid and just right angle [perpendicular to measuring surface].
Just order this one to quit borrowing one from the techs.
The visegrip type is better than the magnetic because many of the newer cars have aluminum suspension parts. What about measuring something on an all aluminum engine......guess having an Extra magnetic base might come in handy also.................when you start you will see how time consumming it is to get the dial indicator rigid and just right angle [perpendicular to measuring surface].
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Q451990
- Moderator
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- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
- Location: Columbia, SC
- Contact:
I was just thinking of using an extra large pair of vice grips or a c-clamp as a backup when I can't find a good place for the magnet. I stopped by Harbor Freight and the guy said you can get the base and gauge on sale for less than $20 there. Since I'm not quite ready for brake work yet, I'm going to hold off and see what happens.
Heath
Heath
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Q451990
- Moderator
- Posts: 11030
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
- Location: Columbia, SC
- Contact:
Went to HF today and bought the stand and dial indicatior... item # for the indicator is 00623, and stand is 05645. The stand was on sale for $8.99 (reg. 17.99) but the dial indicator was regular price at $13.99. The guy at the store said the dial indicator would probably go on sale in the next flyer, so come in an get a refund for the difference within 30 days if I want...
Heath
Heath
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Measured my Powerstop drilled fronts yesterday 4,400 miles after a rotor truing:
Right front 0.003" Left front 0.004"...........this is about 11,000 miles since the rotors were last shimed and indexed to 0.001" or better........the last truing just replaced them on the lugs they came from. [lack of time]
Out of spec but significantly better than at any previous 10,000 mile increment.
2 brand new front tires [at 1,000 miles] were balanced and rotated Left one was 21 grams out, the Right 8 grams.
21 grams and a 0.003" runout was noticable....thought the rotors were really warped just the tires as usual.......felt 90% satisfactory after the tire balance.
It is the combination of errors that gives you fits but a 0.005" runout with perfect tires starts to get annoying. This is the usual amount that is required to be removed on the lathe: new to replace you have 0.040" [FRONTS] to wear and cut so in theory rotors can be trued 8 times less wear or 6 times [with wear] if you catch them soon enough.
The problem with using the dial indicator on the front surface is that when you put the rotor on the lathe the inside surface is always more warped due to caliper design and lack of air flow.............so an in spec outside may not mean an in spec inside...........usually another 0.001" or more error on inside.
Guess I'll be doing another trueing in 1500 miles.
Right front 0.003" Left front 0.004"...........this is about 11,000 miles since the rotors were last shimed and indexed to 0.001" or better........the last truing just replaced them on the lugs they came from. [lack of time]
Out of spec but significantly better than at any previous 10,000 mile increment.
2 brand new front tires [at 1,000 miles] were balanced and rotated Left one was 21 grams out, the Right 8 grams.
21 grams and a 0.003" runout was noticable....thought the rotors were really warped just the tires as usual.......felt 90% satisfactory after the tire balance.
It is the combination of errors that gives you fits but a 0.005" runout with perfect tires starts to get annoying. This is the usual amount that is required to be removed on the lathe: new to replace you have 0.040" [FRONTS] to wear and cut so in theory rotors can be trued 8 times less wear or 6 times [with wear] if you catch them soon enough.
The problem with using the dial indicator on the front surface is that when you put the rotor on the lathe the inside surface is always more warped due to caliper design and lack of air flow.............so an in spec outside may not mean an in spec inside...........usually another 0.001" or more error on inside.
Guess I'll be doing another trueing in 1500 miles.