detonation sensor...now what

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
Ca_Silvia
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I checked my codes again sure enough it was there #34 detonation sensor.So now hopefully with nothing hurt in the motor, what can i do to get ride of this code? Is a new chip my only answer?


Ca_Silvia
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Ok, so im going to replace the knock sensor anyways as a possible problem, but where abouts on the motor is it located? I know its a noob question but im not paying for some dumbass to do a potentialy 10 minute job for me.

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c-rad
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Ca_Silvia wrote:Ok, so im going to replace the knock sensor anyways as a possible problem, but where abouts on the motor is it located? I know its a noob question but im not paying for some dumbass to do a potentialy 10 minute job for me.
under the intake manifold between cylinders 2 and 3. Its big and green. You can't miss it. Although its a pain in the *** to remove!

Ca_Silvia
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What do you mean, is it a prick to get at or is it just hard to pull off?

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teddy
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Ca_Silvia wrote:What do you mean, is it a prick to get at or is it just hard to pull off?
Both because of where it's located. If your engine was pulled..it'd be a breeze.

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float_6969
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Are you sure that the sensor is bad? Are you sure that it's wired up? They are quite frequently NOT wired up when the swap is done, which would cause the fault code.

Ca_Silvia
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float_6969 wrote:Are you sure that the sensor is bad? Are you sure that it's wired up? They are quite frequently NOT wired up when the swap is done, which would cause the fault code.
I drive a Silvia so, no swap here

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float_6969
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Oops! Well in that case, I'd check for continuity through the harness, and then replace if it has has continuity. There is a diagnostic procedure using a voltmeter IIRC in the FSM. You can DL a copy from the link in the Sticky.

Ca_Silvia
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I was reading on an older post about knowing the sensor is bad if you are driving under 3500 or "pre-boost" and you encounter lumpy power or surging almost. The knock sensor senses knock and then kicks down the fuel and ignition maps to low hp ones. And once the boost kicks in 3500rpm+ a different set of variable kicks in and over rides it. Ill try the search again but his sensor was ****ed and it exactly the same to what is happening to me.

Plus if that code is being triggered and its not the actual sensor then what else does it mean. I just got dyno'd i know for a fact my AFR is ok to be boosting. So i dunno...
Modified by Ca_Silvia at 1:26 PM 4/28/2006

Ca_Silvia
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Float, here is the quote its off of nissanexa.com posted by one of the moderaters so im guessing he knows what hes talking about. anyways

"Another quick fact.. after 3500rpm your engine is on it's own anyway with or without a detonation sensor. The ECU completely overrides it after this point.. if your det sensor is screwed then you'll feel as though there's a sudden surge in power after this point. Another quick note.. on VG30DETT and CA18DET the detonation sensor retards timing AND boost below 3500rpm."

So like i said if its not a bad sensor and my AFR is ok as of 10days ago then what else? Oh and for the record i had this code before i got it dyno'd so my AFR and hp numbers are reflected with this code. Can you think of anything else?

sideways danny
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take the y shaped bracket off and you get a lot easier access to the sensor. make sure the plug is pushed fully home first. I've seen that cause problems a few times. I've seen broken wires and bad conections in the loom cause problems

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float_6969
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If you're getting a code 34, then check continutiy through the harness and make sure you don't have any breaks in wires or anything stupid. If you've got continuity, then check out the sensor. First check for continuity from the terminal on the sensor to ground (the block). You should have continuity. If you don't, it's bad.

Ca_Silvia
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OK im not going to lie i have no idea what you mean about checking continuity. But i was talking with a nissan tech here in town and he said the nissan knock sensors can sometimes be thrown if the motor mounts cause the motor to shift violently. Pretty much said the rocking of the motor causes the code to trip. I agree my motor mounts are not the greatest but it still seems like a long shot. What do you guys think?


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