Any suggestions on how to take paint off clear coat, and body?
I had a car run up along side mind. It got both doors, the rear fender, and below the doors (somehow). Dented a couple spots, took the paint off in a couple and left ALOT of paint on my car. Needless to say I am irate. This was in a parking lot so I was not there. I cannot afford to have that much body work done. So my best bet is to do what I can cosmetically. Any suggestions are welcomed.
Thank you
Detailing question
I have never used this method for some thing as large as this mind you ,but this is what has worked when done careully:
dip a Q tip into paint thinner and rub it on the paint spot from the other car.
Do this carefully and keep plenty off kleenex, or some such, handy and wipe frequently after your Q tip, to take off as much foreign paint as possible w/ using as little paintthinner as possible.
Remember if you use too much thinner for too long some of your own paint will come off.It just wont come off nearly as easy as teh other paint, cuz it is still mostly intact while the other paint is all broken even if it looks like a solid streak.
Fred...
dip a Q tip into paint thinner and rub it on the paint spot from the other car.
Do this carefully and keep plenty off kleenex, or some such, handy and wipe frequently after your Q tip, to take off as much foreign paint as possible w/ using as little paintthinner as possible.
Remember if you use too much thinner for too long some of your own paint will come off.It just wont come off nearly as easy as teh other paint, cuz it is still mostly intact while the other paint is all broken even if it looks like a solid streak.
Fred...
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Mayhem_J30
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Stoneage_Turbo
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Just about anything
yeeeah
"I'd use a claybar and some detailing spray. Both are made by Mother's and work well to remove anything from your paint."
good to see someone else uses that product , i swear by it . as they say , theres no shine like mothers . been very impressed by the claybar kit , and its only 20 bucks !!
good to see someone else uses that product , i swear by it . as they say , theres no shine like mothers . been very impressed by the claybar kit , and its only 20 bucks !!
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ser chicken
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i used to work in a body shop, if you lightly wet sand the areas with 1500 or 2000 grit paper you can get it off without going through the clear coat, also as has been mentioned, a polisher and some light compound (3m perfectit 2 makes a great light compound, its white in color) and in spots that were not gotten as bad and to go over where you componded use the polisher and 3m clearcoat safe polish (also white in color but significantly more watery)
be careful with compounds and polishes around wheather striping or textured pieces, they will leave white marks that are hard to get out.
also if you have never wet sanded before i may be able to give some tips on that toohope that helps, and my condolences-pete s
be careful with compounds and polishes around wheather striping or textured pieces, they will leave white marks that are hard to get out.
also if you have never wet sanded before i may be able to give some tips on that toohope that helps, and my condolences-pete s
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ser chicken
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general auto parts stores (ie. pep boys, autozone, abc) tend to have em... i know mother's comes in a red box about the size of a brick... while they are really good products and are great at cleaning and smoothing the paint surface on a car im not so sure they will take off paint from another car...but i never tried-pete s
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ser chicken
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okay.. this is going to take a bit of quality writing to describe correctly.. i hope i can pull this off... esspecialy after a long night like this...
in wet sanding the water is used as a lubricant! remember this because if you dont have enough water its like not having enough oil in your engine. it kinda fuc*s everything up.what you will need: a bucket half filled with water (i prefer warm water, but its not that big of a deal) 1500-2000 grit wet/dry sand paper a sanding sponge (3m makes these, they are a thin rubbery foam material, the one i used to use was grey and black) a couple clean, lint free rags, and an old piece of a towel and preferably a rubber squeege about 2x3inches (3m makes these too.. i suggest finding a local autobody supply store to acquire some of the more obscure pieces)
put the sponge and paper in the water so they soaktake the old towel piece and soak it in the water, then wet down the are were you are going to be working (work in small areas at a time) then re-soak the toweltake the sponge and paper (the paper should be wrapped around the sponge. there should be no over hanging paper on the sides of the sponge, but should be overhang front and back, so you can wrap the paper back around the sponge to itself, the paper grips its self better and keeps it from slipping off, also gives you room to shift the paper to use a new section when need be) always sand with the panel! if its a fender or a door or any other vertical standing panel, you want sand horizontaly (with line of sight so fine lines left from sanding can not be noticable)keep the soaked towel above the area you are working, squeeze it too keep the area you are sanding wet.you should see a foamy white residue when you get into the clear coat. when you get the paint off lightly sand the clear coat just to smooth the finish.
i recomend using the prior mentioned light compound and clearcoat safe polish after sanding to restore paints luster.
hope this helps-pete s
in wet sanding the water is used as a lubricant! remember this because if you dont have enough water its like not having enough oil in your engine. it kinda fuc*s everything up.what you will need: a bucket half filled with water (i prefer warm water, but its not that big of a deal) 1500-2000 grit wet/dry sand paper a sanding sponge (3m makes these, they are a thin rubbery foam material, the one i used to use was grey and black) a couple clean, lint free rags, and an old piece of a towel and preferably a rubber squeege about 2x3inches (3m makes these too.. i suggest finding a local autobody supply store to acquire some of the more obscure pieces)
put the sponge and paper in the water so they soaktake the old towel piece and soak it in the water, then wet down the are were you are going to be working (work in small areas at a time) then re-soak the toweltake the sponge and paper (the paper should be wrapped around the sponge. there should be no over hanging paper on the sides of the sponge, but should be overhang front and back, so you can wrap the paper back around the sponge to itself, the paper grips its self better and keeps it from slipping off, also gives you room to shift the paper to use a new section when need be) always sand with the panel! if its a fender or a door or any other vertical standing panel, you want sand horizontaly (with line of sight so fine lines left from sanding can not be noticable)keep the soaked towel above the area you are working, squeeze it too keep the area you are sanding wet.you should see a foamy white residue when you get into the clear coat. when you get the paint off lightly sand the clear coat just to smooth the finish.
i recomend using the prior mentioned light compound and clearcoat safe polish after sanding to restore paints luster.
hope this helps-pete s