Detailed Swap pricing Guide.

[Evo_bill]

Ok, Figured I had some time and I would give back a little info to 240sx.org…Just like the title says I have roughly broken down the pricing of an rb26 swap. I used my work in progress as an example.This is a brake down of the basic cost of an rb26dett, all pricing was confirmed if it’s not an estimate. I have the confirmed pricing with store's on a lot of the items ***so please do not post that I’m lying about prices*** I’m doing a lot of this work my own so I saved a lot from the labor. There are some items here that don’t apply to some of you, but then again I’m basing this pricing guide off what I’m looking at getting. Regardless of what people will say about this post it should accomplish 2 things, 1. Give new peeps a real life cost of doing the swap, 2. Provide as a parts list to get 600 wheel HP from stock internals reliably.

Projected Cost of motor

rb26 - 3200.00Jun collar - 160.00 Jun oil pump - 780.00rebuild gasket kit - 155.00OEM piston rings - 150.00OEM new bearings - 89.00Idler pully - 31.00Timing belt tensioner - 30.00Greddy timing belt - 100.00ARP head Bolts - 277.51 N1 water pump - 80.00Metal 1.2mm head gasket - 110.00HKS/Garrett 2530/2830s - 2300.00 est.Emanage Ultimate w/map sensor - 800.00 est.Koyo radiator - 370.00Greddy FMIC kit - 450.00HKS fuel rail - 115.00homemade oil cooler - 250.00 est.SARD 660cc injectors - 400.00fuel pump - 120.00oil catch can - 80.00BoV - 200.00VLSD - 200.00 z32 transmission - 200.00 est. Aluminum drive shaft - 250.00(as it stands right now) McKinney mounts - 650.00defi's boost,wide band, oil temp - 700.00 est.R33 cluster - 200.00 est.custom down pipe - 500.00 est custom side exhuast pipe - 50.00 est.

--------------------------------------------------12,997.00 Motor alone

Projected Cost of Labor

Stock mani ceramic coating - 100.00 est.valve covers powder coated - 65.00 est. Block/Head Decked - 100.00Collar w/ micro polish labor - 250.00oil return head/block boring labor - 200.00 est.Ballistics motorsports wiring - 200.00 est. defi install - 100.00 est. -----------------------------------------------------1015.00 Labor

Projected Cost of car parts

Coilover/ suspension 2000.00 est.autobody repair 200.00New Break pads 100.00 est.fluids 200.00 est oil pan mod - freeclutch - freemotor work - free Cleaning motor - free _____________________2500.00 car parts not counting rims and tires ;(

Some people do this swap much cheaper, But I decided to do it the "right way" I plan to roadrace alot so I needed all of the oil work done.Well I hope this can help alot of you peeps who are looking in to this swap and hope you got deep pockets cus it ant cheap anyway you look at it.

[Evo_bill]

add 50 bucks I forgot fans;P

[002-M-P]

nice list, but I would like to know where you are getting some of these and/or what brand...

the rebuild gasket kit for $155...is that OEM gasket setthe metal head gasket for $120...what brand

it also wouldn't be a bad idea to add ARP rod bolts to the list if you are looking for upwards of 600hp...just an idea

[Evo_bill]

nice list, but I would like to know where you are getting some of these and/or what brand...

the rebuild gasket kit for $155...is that OEM gasket setthe metal head gasket for $120...what brand

it also wouldn't be a bad idea to add ARP rod bolts to the list if you are looking for upwards of 600hp...just an idea

the overhual kit is OEM Nissan R32 gasket kitthe metal head gasket is Trust good call on the ARP rob bolts I also forgot about Thermostat

which is 70 for bolts and 15 for thermostat

[002-M-P]

If you wouldn't mind letting me know where you are getting that head gasket it would be aweome, its exactly what I need.

It is discontinued in that size at Nengun...and even if it wasn't it is 162 shipped

[Carl H]

bleh to emanage ultimate, and bleaaach to map.a list like that proves its not cheap to do a rb26 swap...least one thats done right.

[002-M-P]

bleh to emanage ultimate, and bleaaach to map.a list like that proves its not cheap to do a rb26 swap...least one thats done right.

I agree about emanage ultimate..I have it on the Z right now....Just get a Power FC D-Jetro from Nengun for $690 shipped....much better.

[Bluefire]

You might want to list sources on a lot of your pricing as a lot seems off. many of prices seem like your getting wholesale prcing and not retail.

some of your questionable item pricing:

Quality Electric Fans(no ebay fans since your doing this the"right way")RB26(Motor?Front Clip?R32/R33/R34? Source?)Sard injectors (did you calculate the price of the collars too?)Idler Puller and tensioner OEM Gasket KitN1 water pumpHKS fuel railAluminum drive shaft (a new custom steel shaft should run about $200)Oil Cooler kit (with quality parts should be in the $400-$500 range)

Also i don't know how your possibly gonna make a z32 transmission work without the RB25 housing. So you should probably change that to rb25 transmission which changes the price closer to $800

The greddy fmic kit is not gonna work, your gonna need all new custom piping as well as custom intake piping with filters. So adding the price of aluminum mandrel bends and labor ($600) + $200 for filters. (you want aluminum as steel is just excess weight)

You also forgot rb25 oil pan, another $150 their

Also since your using an hks fuel rail, you need some -6 hose ends and steel braided line. you'll also need a fuel pressure gauge to set the fpr. Probably another $100

And since you said your doing this the right way, i'm sure you not going to be buying a walbro fuel pump which means that $120 price is also wrong.

How about an ebc to turn the boost up. if you going for lower quality thats still in the $300 range for a greddy and closer to $500-$600 for apexi, hks or blitz.

I also find it interested that you left two very important gauges which is watertemp and oil temp. Besides if your going defi and I am assuming your going for their guages with warning lights(since your roadracing and all) that means that the gauges will be roughly $200 a gauge + the defi link unit which brings the price to an underestimated $900. This does not include the price of a wideband unit which is in the $300 range alone

Also what about dyno time and tuning... that'll be around another $800 for setup and a few hours of tuning.

Its a good start so far but I think it needs a lot work and updating to be considered trustworthy knowledge. A 600hp rb26 swap done the RIGHT WAY should easily fetch into the $15,000-$20,000 range(Assuming no hookups)

[002-M-P]

I too think some of the parts are a little underpriced (or at least don't include est. shipping)...but they aren't way off.

My rb26 motor, that came with rb25 transmission, oil pan, clutch/flywheel, starter...cost me 5400 shippedI paid 250 shipped for my oem gasket kitIdler pulley and tensioner prices are correct from http://www.nismoparts.comI am going to modify the rb26 stock pan...extra oil capacity and upgraded oil baffle options

Also, what is wrong with the walbro 255 fuel pump? I have run it for 40k miles in my greddy tt 350z at 465whp (~550bhp) and have had 0 issues with it. The walbro should be good for nearly 650bhp. Sure its not the best out there, but it will work reliably for a cheaper option. Any more than 600bhp and I would be getting iffy with it though.

[Evo_bill]

I too think some of the parts are a little underpriced (or at least don't include est. shipping)...but they aren't way off.

My rb26 motor, that came with rb25 transmission, oil pan, clutch/flywheel, starter...cost me 5400 shippedI paid 250 shipped for my oem gasket kitIdler pulley and tensioner prices are correct from http://www.nismoparts.comI am going to modify the rb26 stock pan...extra oil capacity and upgraded oil baffle options

Also, what is wrong with the walbro 255 fuel pump? I have run it for 40k miles in my greddy tt 350z at 465whp (~550bhp) and have had 0 issues with it. The walbro should be good for nearly 650bhp. Sure its not the best out there, but it will work reliably for a cheaper option. Any more than 600bhp and I would be getting iffy with it though.

I knew I would received all this criticism, Actual most all the prices (except est. ones) are confirmed pricing if you don't believe Im not loosing any sleep over it. I didn't include all of the work Im having done at a local shop the rewielding of the greddy FMIC kit along with the downpipe. I didn't have enough time at work to list other misc. items like bluefire did, And I paid only 3200.00 shipped to my door for rb26 complete motor/transmission.( still have receipt ) If I'm not mistaken rb26 transmission bell housing will do just fine. 002-M-P gave up my secret supplier for dirt cheap OEM parts. only thing I was off a little was head gasket I thought I had it saved as 125.00 but I was wrong.

[Bluefire]

I'm not trying to shut your post down or anything, I just feel that many of the prices are low or not accurate, possibly giving readers false hopes. And if the prices are correct it might benefit others to know where your getting such good prices.

As for the walbro fuel pumps, they have been hit or miss with me and many of my friends. They'll just randomly go out. Sure, there are many out there that have lasted for years, but I prefer higher quality fuel pumps with a better track record.

As for the z32 transmission, have you seen one before? The shifter mechanism is completely different...

-Bluefire

[002-M-P]

I wasn't really trying to critisize your post (I was actually trying to defend it somewhat), but I was just stating the prices that I have found/paid, so other people know that your prices might exist, they might not be the easiest to find at a given time. Though I would like to know some of your suppliers (engine bearings, fuel rail, n1 water pump, etc).

It took me a while to find that "secret supplier" but i'm glad I did

[Evo_bill]

I didn't mean to use your post I was in a rush when I was typing and hit quote. You know what, call up Shay @ nismoparts, get a quote like I did for any oem part the price will blow your mind. Bad part is he order directly from nissan so it take 6 to 8 week to get it depended on weather they need to make more of that part. this includes nismo parts.

BTW, MP good job with the Z. keep up the good work I can't wait to see some video of you and the 350z GTR going to be interesting.

and about the z32 shifter issue.... I've read post of people moding it and making a new shifter bracket.
Modified by Evo_bill at 7:50 AM 1/23/2007

[002-M-P]

Thanks for the info and words Bill...hope your swap goes well too.

[jspec603]

bleh to emanage ultimate, and bleaaach to map.

Could you explain why you dislike the EU? Have you personally had a bad experiance with it? Enlighten us please.

I agree about emanage ultimate..I have it on the Z right now....Just get a Power FC D-Jetro from Nengun for $690 shipped....much better.

That is like compairing apples and oranges...the EU is a piggyback...PFC is not. You will always get more power out of a stand alone system, but will you pass emissions? With the EU you have great tuneability yet you still remain OBD2 compliant.

I decided to do it the "right way"

So...where in your list of labor charges do you show machine work to the block? Checking the cylinders for roundness and honing? How do you plan to do that? Also, what if your cylinders are not round...if you put new pistions and rings in and its not round, they'll never seal correctly.

my .02, not trying to argue or steel Evo_Bills thread...just wondering!

[002-M-P]

That is like compairing apples and oranges...the EU is a piggyback...PFC is not. You will always get more power out of a stand alone system, but will you pass emissions? With the EU you have great tuneability yet you still remain OBD2 compliant.

So...where in your list of labor charges do you show machine work to the block? Checking the cylinders for roundness and honing? How do you plan to do that? Also, what if your cylinders are not round...if you put new pistions and rings in and its not round, they'll never seal correctly.

my .02, not trying to argue or steel Evo_Bills thread...just wondering!

And you think the RB26 stock ecu or any variation of it is ever going to be OBD-II compliant??? You might as well use the stand alone that just happens to be both better and cheaper.

He going on the fact that the engine is in good enough shape to not need boring. He has the machining costs for decking the block/heads and boring the oil passages.....yet I do agree, anytime you change pistons at a bare minimum you need to hone your cylinders.

[jspec603]

And you think the RB26 stock ecu or any variation of it is ever going to be OBD-II compliant??? You might as well use the stand alone that just happens to be both better and cheaper.

He going on the fact that the engine is in good enough shape to not need boring. He has the machining costs for decking the block/heads and boring the oil passages.....yet I do agree, anytime you change pistons at a bare minimum you need to hone your cylinders.

You make a good point about the RB ECU being OBD2 compliant...I'm used to dealing with USDM vehicles and NH emission laws. Guess I had it stuck in my head.

As far as the block goes... wouldn't it be more practical, while the motor is apart, to have the cylinder walls checked? Also, while it is apart, spend the little extra money to buy new pistons and bore the block .020? I'm only going by what I have been taught...To spend a little more up front could save you more down the line. That refers to labor (physical and monitary).

[002-M-P]

Yes that is exactly what I am doing (have some light wall scratches that could be honed out, but am boring to 86.5mm and getting some CP pistons just to be safe)...but some people might not choose to do this...recommended but not required

[Evo_bill]

I've already had my cylinders and pistons measured and I have perfectly good walls along with checked rods. I've already order rings for only 150 bucks and a 88 mm ball hone for 50 bucks. Realisticly Im not going to be running the car at 100%, 600whp. So, I decided to just rebuild stock, everything has check out looking in good reuseable condition, so why spend the extra 1500+ bucks?

maybe in a couple of years when I got deeper pockets and if Im still in to this car, I'll rebuild the motor and ship the car to full race to get the R14 conversion done.

[lucky7]

i wanna add that a good clutch flywheel combo for a 26 is another $1,000+. OS Giken comes to mind.

a very good start to the list, but i feel like you will run into many unsuspecting pitfalls like i have. simply doing an RB25 is nickel and diming me to death. having the wiring done, power steering lines made, etc, etc, etc. something new pops up every week. and its just another thing to overcome. but again, not dogging on your list. but i know for a fact you will be adding to it. haha.

[Sil240]

I've already had my cylinders and pistons measured and I have perfectly good walls along with checked rods. I've already order rings for only 150 bucks and a 88 mm ball hone for 50 bucks. Realisticly Im not going to be running the car at 100%, 600whp. So, I decided to just rebuild stock, everything has check out looking in good reuseable condition, so why spend the extra 1500+ bucks?

maybe in a couple of years when I got deeper pockets and if Im still in to this car, I'll rebuild the motor and ship the car to full race to get the R14 conversion done.

Your gonna hone your block out 2mm???? (.078 "HONE??)Isnt the RB26 bore 86mmI think you mean bore it out. I'm not too well versed in machining though.

[002-M-P]

Yes stock bore is 86mm...ball hones generally come in ranges, as they work for more than just one size.

[Evo_bill]

i wanna add that a good clutch flywheel combo for a 26 is another $1,000+. OS Giken comes to mind.

a very good start to the list, but i feel like you will run into many unsuspecting pitfalls like i have. simply doing an RB25 is nickel and diming me to death. having the wiring done, power steering lines made, etc, etc, etc. something new pops up every week. and its just another thing to overcome. but again, not dogging on your list. but i know for a fact you will be adding to it. haha.

I was one of the lucky ones and got a healthy 3 disk OS Giken with my rb

and about the honing, its required that you get a hone bigger then your bore so its even on either side. (honing only takes minor inperfections out and clean the bone of "ring glaze" along with giving your new rings something to seat in)

[RB_Dreamin]

dont mean to $hit on your parts pricing parade, but you need to study up on what you're doing or you might as well just throw your money into a furnace right now.

since when did 2mm over, basically the max bore you can achieve, count as a HONE? a hone isnt meant to take away enough material to change your measureable bore.

good luck using oem pistons and rings on an 88mm cylinder. not sure how you expect your rings to seal or your pistons/skirts to not knock and destroy the walls. stock piston spec is 85.955-85.985mm for an 86mm bore. whats that leave you, a 0.03mm variance in piston size to bore? wonder whats going to happen if you add a whole 2mm on top of that?

other than the imminent death of your motor, nice parts list

while i'm at it, $80 n1 water pump new? doubtful. 660cc injectors for 600 wheel? maybe for a few dyno pulls.gt2530/2580s for 600 wheel with stock head? better have some nitrous.
Modified by RB_Dreamin at 10:20 PM 1/24/2007

[002-M-P]

...I think you need to go back and reread the last two posts. He is not trying to hone out to 88mm...he is using a 88mm ball hone to hone his 86mm cylinders...even his last post explains that he knows what honing is.

I too am skeptical about the $80 n1 water pump, I looked for a good hour yesterday and couldn't find anything below $150. I really want that water pump at $80.

660cc for 600 wheel will work with slightly raised fuel pressures. My 440cc injectors have been running at 465whp for about 15k miles now (granted that is about 88% inj. duty). I would recommend 720cc's injectors though if you are buying new...just keep an eye on the duty.

From what I have seen, 2530's on pump gas and cams are generally putting out 475-525 whp...600whp is achievable, race gas may be needed.

Some good power setups are in this thread.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.c...&st=0

[gawdzilla]

440cc and 465 wheel on an RB? the BSFC on your VQ is probably pretty different. i made 404 wheel on 550s and the duty cycles were in the 90s. upping the fuel pressure is a band aid fix, might as well get bigger injectors if you're starting fresh anyway.

2530s without head work or cams wont let you break mid 5's safely.

[002-M-P]

Yes that is on the VQ....404 on 550's at 90% is crazy. I guess comparing the VQ fuel needs to the RB fuel needs isn't exactly comparing apples to apples.

[Evo_bill]

Talk to Shay about N1 water pump I think it was actually only 76 bucks.I haven't fully talking about which size injectors I need so thanks for the input.

[gawdzilla]

Talk to Shay about N1 water pump I think it was actually only 76 bucks.I haven't fully talking about which size injectors I need so thanks for the input.

nope. i've got a receipt in front of me from shae, n1 water pump $147.27

[Evo_bill]

nope. i've got a receipt in front of me from shae, n1 water pump $147.27

dude he told me stock water pump was 60 bucks that weather or not I wanted the N1 for maybe it was like 86 bucks... reguardless weather it was 76 or 86 I distinctly remember and wrote down 86 bucks. I'll have to check again what I wrote down along with giving him another call.