DET sensor,CAS,ECU temp problems..

[crazymax]

So I finally got my car to run this past week(had to get replacement Ignitor and fix some grounds)..well now it starts on demand but the idle is rough and it wont rev past 2000rpm. I checked ECU and got codes 12 13 and 34

The codes mean:12 Mass Air flow meter circuit / Wiring fault, sensor, ECU 13 Engine temperature sensor circuit / Wiring fault, sensorECU and 34 is the knock Sensor, right?

I replaced the Temp sensor and it did not go away,the MAF I rewired with the KA one using this setup I found in here:

so the Ka Black goes to CA black = groundKA Black/white goes to CA black/white =(12voltska white goes to CA green/black = signal 0-5volts

The Knock Sensor I will wire but I had some Q' about it though,Do i just run a wire from the sensor itself in the block straight into the ECU?Where do I tap the white wire at?before it connects to the harness or till it reaches the connectore by the fuse box?what about the black wire I keep reading about??

The CAS: well I replaced my timign belt and did everythign according to the FSM but something might have gone wrong since it seems like timing is off, when I take off the CAS,is there a correct way it should sit as related to the spline on the exhaust cam??? I also found this"Thanks...I have seen where the exhaust camshaft has the lip broken where the cas plugs in.The engine will turn but the cas won't due to a broken camshaft lip where the cas plugs in."

Is the spline Im talking about(connects to CAS) supposed to be cut accross like in to a point? ill try to get pics..


Modified by DSG!Yashuu at 5:35 PM 12/18/2004

[themadscientist]

well with the CAS at least it will only go on one way. Did you phase the cams properly? Is there any chance youput the belt on with the cams in the wrong position? Even one tooth off could be disasterous.

[biosehnsucht]

If you use an OEM belt then lining them up is almost impossible to screw up, if you have someone helping you (to hold the cams in place w/ wrenches / whatever) while you put the belt on etc.. the OEM belt I got has marks to line up w/ the marks on the cam gears and crank gear, and also indicates which way is front (not that it really matters). I doubt aftermarket ones are so nicely labelled tho, so getting hte timing right will be hard.

[float_6969]

When you say that you replaced the temp sensor and "it didn't go away" what do you mean? Did the code go away, or the problem didn't go away?

[crazymax]

The timing belt was OEM,it was installed correctly. I meant that the code did not go away..I got a new MAF last night just in case the KAE I had was no good either, does anyone know if the wiring is the correct??on both the MAF and the knock sensor???Thanks...

[crazymax]

Ok,I got code 13 and 34 gone..For the knock sensor I used a KA plug to use ont he Knock sensor plug on the lower CA harness and then taped those into the F8 connector by the battery. The ECU temp just didnt come out no more(maybe I didnt reset it right..???)

I have another MAF to hook up but first,can anyone confirm the wiring???

[biosehnsucht]

You sound like you have it correct but be sure the black wire you connected to the MAF black wire is going to pin 26 on the ECU, not the normal ground wires. At least per the wiring diagram it has a dedicated ground AT the ecu. Also, the shielding needs to be joined (if you spliced two lengths together, if just slapping the connector on the existing wiring no issue) and the shield should be grounded at the harness side near the ECU (where the shielding on the MAF cable runs out), but NOT at the MAF side (only on one end).

[crazymax]

Yeah,Im going thru my MAF harness again,Ill just head down(to the junk yards) and get me a full harness and use the whole E MAF harness and look up into the wiring you mentioned...

[biosehnsucht]

I cut an E MAF harness as far back as I could get (almost to the firewall) from a yard and spliced that onto the CA MAF harness at the very end of it and it was just enough to wrap around from the passenger side along the front to the MAF with 5-6" free length

[crazymax]

Wired up the MAF as stated above.......

Car runs and revs but I dont think it has a rev limiter(dont ask why,I only saw it go high once)..I still got to fix some leaks(boost,exhaust,coolant) and get the timing right. It has a slightly backfiring/pop noise issue.....

[crazymax]

Done and Done..timing set today and fixed the smoke...still hard on cold starts.

[redamnavit]

If you use an OEM belt then lining them up is almost impossible to screw up, if you have someone helping you (to hold the cams in place w/ wrenches / whatever) while you put the belt on etc.. the OEM belt I got has marks to line up w/ the marks on the cam gears and crank gear, and also indicates which way is front (not that it really matters). I doubt aftermarket ones are so nicely labelled tho, so getting hte timing right will be hard.

Search button is my friend.

What would you use the wrenches on? The bolts that hold the gears to the cams? Would that risk overtorqueing them? I fought with holding them in place by hand (alone, no less) for about 2 hours yesterday without success.

[float_6969]

Maybe I'm just a stud, but I just did it by hand. I would also think that you could take a long screw driver and put it in the "spokes" of the cam gear and turn it that way. Try that and see if it works. Also, THANK YOU FOR USING THE SEARCH BUTTON! It makes me smile when old threads get ttt'd!

[NeedCAforS13]

lol, I tried doing it by hand and succeeded in getting my thumb stuck between the two gears I believe I held them in place sticking something through the spokes of the gears...

Sean

[sdtouge]

try resting the ecu,to reset the ecu you eaither need to wait 50 starts or unplug the negative battery termanl for a while then try it again.

good luck!

[biosehnsucht]

when I get home I can try to pshop some images pointing to it

but if you look at the cams themselves, there are hexagonal sections in two places on eachyou can get wrenches (adjustable or whatever) on those just BARELY and use that to hold them in place. granted you still probably want a second set of hands to coordinate all this.

[redamnavit]

but if you look at the cams themselves, there are hexagonal sections in two places on eachyou can get wrenches (adjustable or whatever) on those just BARELY and use that to hold them in place. granted you still probably want a second set of hands to coordinate all this.

I thought about this for about 30 minutes before I realized I needed to remove the valve covers to see what you were talking about. This sounds like a plan though; I'll give it a try.